Tech Tip "Testing your electrical with all Safety intact.
03-07-2005, 11:08 AM
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Tech Tip "Testing your electrical with all Safety intact. How do I test my nitrous electrical system with all the safety equipment hooked up and intact?
Components: FPSS, Widow Switch, Micro Switch, Arming Switch. This is probably the must difficult thing I have been asked to tech about.
Now this will deal with a standard single stage system. NITROUS BOTTLE OFF. And will take two people for safety reasons.
Remove your coils from the nitrous and fuel solenoids and set them off to side. Do not loose the little nuts that are holding the coils down because you are going to find them a local hardware store.
To start with the rpm window switch must be turned (or pilled) down to a low setting say 1500-2000 rpms.
Turn the key on (but do not start the car). Close the micro switch as if you were at full throttle. Have your friend take a non-magnetized screwdriver and slide inside the coil, were the tower went through. NOTHING should happen.
Let off the micro switch and start the car. Let it idle.
Push the micro switch close again nothing should happen to the screw drive. Now start to raise the RPMs once you achieve the proper rpm with the micro switch closed you should have a magnetic field that can be felt. Release the micro switch and that field will disappear.
If so your electrical system is wired and working properly. Now reinstall the coils and tighten the nut securely. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN, remember tight is tight and you do not have to use a pry bar. Put your window switch rpm back to be you had it set before doing this test.
This is the only way I know to test a system with all its safety features intact and without jumping and disconnect things to see if the solenoids work. Remember you are testing the entire system not half of it.
The reason I recommend you pull the coils off the solenoids so they will not open and inject nitrous and or fuel into a low rpm’ing engine.
This test does not test to see if the noids are opening but does test all other electrical safety parts of you system.
Ricky
Components: FPSS, Widow Switch, Micro Switch, Arming Switch. This is probably the must difficult thing I have been asked to tech about.
Now this will deal with a standard single stage system. NITROUS BOTTLE OFF. And will take two people for safety reasons.
Remove your coils from the nitrous and fuel solenoids and set them off to side. Do not loose the little nuts that are holding the coils down because you are going to find them a local hardware store.
To start with the rpm window switch must be turned (or pilled) down to a low setting say 1500-2000 rpms.
Turn the key on (but do not start the car). Close the micro switch as if you were at full throttle. Have your friend take a non-magnetized screwdriver and slide inside the coil, were the tower went through. NOTHING should happen.
Let off the micro switch and start the car. Let it idle.
Push the micro switch close again nothing should happen to the screw drive. Now start to raise the RPMs once you achieve the proper rpm with the micro switch closed you should have a magnetic field that can be felt. Release the micro switch and that field will disappear.
If so your electrical system is wired and working properly. Now reinstall the coils and tighten the nut securely. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN, remember tight is tight and you do not have to use a pry bar. Put your window switch rpm back to be you had it set before doing this test.
This is the only way I know to test a system with all its safety features intact and without jumping and disconnect things to see if the solenoids work. Remember you are testing the entire system not half of it.
The reason I recommend you pull the coils off the solenoids so they will not open and inject nitrous and or fuel into a low rpm’ing engine.
This test does not test to see if the noids are opening but does test all other electrical safety parts of you system.
Ricky
Last edited by NXRICKY; 03-07-2005 at 11:14 AM.
03-07-2005, 01:41 PM
#3
Guys,Here is another way to do this.
This is what we do here at the shop.Leave the bottle closed.Take a short piece of wire and loop it where the module would plug in.Have a buddy hold the fuel line that screws onto the nozzle pointed into a cup or can.Crank the car and click the microswitch with your finger.It should flow the fuel out of the nozzle into the can..Then take and put your hand on top of the solinoids to make sure they are clicking.If all this works take the loop wire out of the window switch and put your mudule back in it.
Just another way of doing it to make sure the fuel solenoid is flowing.
Dave
This is what we do here at the shop.Leave the bottle closed.Take a short piece of wire and loop it where the module would plug in.Have a buddy hold the fuel line that screws onto the nozzle pointed into a cup or can.Crank the car and click the microswitch with your finger.It should flow the fuel out of the nozzle into the can..Then take and put your hand on top of the solinoids to make sure they are clicking.If all this works take the loop wire out of the window switch and put your mudule back in it.
Just another way of doing it to make sure the fuel solenoid is flowing.
Dave
03-07-2005, 01:50 PM
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Something interesting (and bad) I found about the MSD digital RPM window switch is that if you turn the car off when the RPM is in the range of the switch, the switch will still be in the ON position. This makes it easy to test if you are by yourself, just rev up until it displays ON and then turn the car off and leave the keys in the on position so the window switch still gets power. I tested the nitrous solenoid before I hooked up the fuel feed line as well. And I am thinking the car will probably need to be running to test the fuel solenoid, so I had a friend rev it up to test that.
03-07-2005, 02:01 PM
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Here is another option:
Step 1) Unlpug power to the solenoids. Start car, rev to window setting and a)get buddy to listen for relay click b) put a voltmeter on power supply to solenoids and check for voltage This tests the electrical system to the relay.
Step 2) Plug the solenoids up. Leave car off, bottle closed. Jumper the relay to send power to the solenoids. Check coils with screwdriver. This will dump some fuel into the engine. Equivalent to flooding the engine. This checks the solenoids.
Step 1) Unlpug power to the solenoids. Start car, rev to window setting and a)get buddy to listen for relay click b) put a voltmeter on power supply to solenoids and check for voltage This tests the electrical system to the relay.
Step 2) Plug the solenoids up. Leave car off, bottle closed. Jumper the relay to send power to the solenoids. Check coils with screwdriver. This will dump some fuel into the engine. Equivalent to flooding the engine. This checks the solenoids.
