Gauge

iTrader: (3)

The headers are going on Saturday. I've done some searching on here, and I've found answers to a lot of questions, but I want to be absolutely sure, so I'm going to make a post of my own. Here is a checklist of things that I'm going to do/get/need/have... I have questions on some.

Things to have
- kickass QTP 1-3/4" headers
- kickass QTP catted Y
- new GM header gaskets
- anti-sieze
- the usual tools (torque wrench, socket set, etc.)
- band clamps (where to get? what size? how many? how expensive?)
- spark plugs (still working on which ones to get)
- O2 extensions
- beer

Things to do
- use anti-sieze on header bolts
- torque header bolts from inside out to 18ft-lbs, heat up engine, cool off, retorque
- remove AIR system
- tighten band clamps from headers back to catback
- tune out AIR and rear O2s next week
- change spark plugs when stock manifolds are off
- use anti-sieze on spark plug threads
- celebrate with beer

Questions
- See questions next to "band clamps" under "Things to have"
- Anyone have a link to a howto on !AIR mod?
- Any recommendations on plugs, gapping, and where to get them? (I have a general understanding on how hot/cold plugs and large/small gaps affect performance, but I don't know what a stock LS1 calls for)
- Any other recommendations? Did I miss anything?


Thanks in advance.

777

iTrader: (21)

got a question what does anti-seize actually do...make the plugs come out easier?

99Hawk262

iTrader: (19)

What length 02 extensions did you get? I am getting ready to install some Pacesetter's and I'm not sure if I need 12" or 24". I am deleting my rear 02's, so just need to extend the frobt ones.

1999T/A

iTrader: (4)

Never had to use anti-seize on the header bolts before ,I guess thats just personal preference . I use it on my spark plugs tho . I removed my manifolds after 155K miles of use and the bolts came out no problem and didnt have antiseize on them . Just my .0000000002 cents

Gauge

iTrader: (3)

I've been told that you should use anti-seize on any bolts that go into aluminium because it can bind up like PVC (in which case you use tephlon tape).


I ordered them with the headers, so I'm assuming they're going to be sharp enough to give me what I need. I hear good things, so I'm taking it on faith. So, to answer your question, I don't know what length I got. :\


I hear ya... can't hurt, though!

1999T/A

iTrader: (4)

Thats right ! Go for it man !

Gauge

iTrader: (3)

My father (who is more mechanically savy than I) wanted to know if the heat from headers becomes an issue with the starter on LS1s. He had an old '69 COPO Camaro, and he said that when he put headers on his car the heat burned up a starter, so he had to add some heat shielding around it.

leeluther252

iTrader: (17)

Heat will not be a problem with headers.. Get some NGK tr55's. Headers should come with band clamps. Also I have taken my headers off many times and have never had a problem with bolts at all and i have never used anti-seize.. I would put it on the plugs though. Dont put the plugs in untill after the headers are back it.. so you dont crack a plug. You may have to lower the tranny tail shaft and pull the tranny from side to side. Im not sure about QTP but i had to lift the engine up for the driver side Kooks headers. SLP you just have to pry on the Tranny

slyws6

Anti-seize on the header bolts is not necessary. Good luck.

-Sly

davered00ss

iTrader: (4)

Plugs NGK TR55, Gap to .060

rawlitogut

You forgot a tune

Gauge

iTrader: (3)

I'm going to wait until I've got an air lid, pulleys, and maybe even h/c before I tune. I don't want to waste the money on a tune and then immediately change the setup again.

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

Congrats gauge. What band clamps you need depends on how your headers and Y pipe mate up. Infact, your Y pipe probably even comes with band clamps. Might want to check to make sure. I used high temp loc-tite on the header bolts. I used antisieze on the spark plugs. Get TR55IX if you can afford them, or TR55 if you can not. Youll have to change the latter ones out every 25K or so. As for the !AIR mod, just remove all the hoses. Thats it. Leave the pump in until you can get a tune and diable the codes so the SES dosnt show up. As for which beer to get, Im partial to killians, bass or guiness. Ive always had good results using those. Good luck dude.

-Tony

LoudmouthLT1

iTrader: (2)

Keeps the threads from locking up to eachother, its good for things going into aluminum...prevents the plugs from snapping since they won't be stuck

kpowr82

iTrader: (9)

Get yourself a 10mm gear wrench and a set of swivel sockets, or a swivel extension. If you can't get the car high enough in the air, you may need to raise the engine a bit. To get the car high enough, I nailed some 2 x 4 together and put it between the jack and k-member. Maybe not the safest thing to do, but I only had it that way for about 5 minutes. Once you get everything out of the way, they slide in easily. I have Kook's BTW which are supposedly the same design.

It will also help to pull the oil drain plug and filter. You shouldn't have to grind anything down.

Do yourself a huge favor and get rid of the AIR system first.

The last header bolt on the passanger side is a pain in the *** unless you remove the coilpacks. You can remove the front four bolts that hold the coilpack rack to the valve covers, then just slide it upward about an inch and half. Just to get it out of the way a bit.

Good luck, if you need any help at the time, post up.