CheaTR Cam Install Last Minute Questions - C5
06-13-2005, 07:31 AM
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CheaTR Cam Install Last Minute Questions - C5 I am very close to installing the CHeaTR CAM from TR. I have read the LS1HOWTO.com, for a C5, writeup several times and printed out the instructions. Despite this, I have a few questions. Since they show doing a LS6 intake manifold, heads and CAM, it seems there is a lot more done I don't need to do. For instance, do I even need to remove my exhaust manifolds, the intake manifolds or any of that. Can I just remove the coil packs and valve covers to change the springs. All I am doing is the CAM and springs, nothing else. Seems like the Cam install for the Fbody writeup is the better instruction except for having to remove the power steering rack and radiator. Am I correct in this? Is there a better C5 Cam and spring only writeup? Also, to keep the lifters up, can I use the 5/16 dowels rods vice the pen magnets as described in the Fbody writeup up? Thanks for any help. Any other tricks? I have been buying tools and stuff for the last year so I could do this myself and just got my compressor so I am excited.
Jim K.
Jim K.
06-13-2005, 09:03 AM
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Thanks predator. So fore go the compressor method?
Jim K.
Jim K.
Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
Just do the TDC method for spring change. Much safer, no chance of any valves dropping.
06-13-2005, 09:07 AM
#4
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Yes, I could never trust air on something so vital (if valve drops for whatever reason, off with the heads).
The TDC method is explained in LS1howto.com and is very simple.
The TDC method is explained in LS1howto.com and is very simple.
06-13-2005, 09:10 AM
#5
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This is a description by JMX
Top dead center method
This method requires you to put the piston at the highest position in the bore, so that when you start to compress the spring, the valve can only drop until it hits the piston. When the piston is at top dead center, the valve can't move very far at all.
There are several ways to accomplish this:
A) You can place a small stick/rod/straw/something into the spark plug hole and have a buddy turn the crankshaft by putting the stock 24mm crank pulley bolt in and turning the bolt with a wrench. You should be able to feel when the piston comes up to the top.
B) This method is a bit more elegant. Rotate your motor over by hand until your cam gear and crank gear are dot to dot like you set them up as earlier. At this position, piston 1 and 6 should be at top dead center. You can change the 4 springs on these 2 cylinders now using the instructions below. After you change those 4, then, rotate the crankshaft a full 90 degrees, and the cam gear dot will turn 45 degrees, as if it is pointing to 7:30 if it were a clock. Now piston 8 and 5 are at the top and can be changed. Rotate another 90 degrees on the crank and your cam gear dot will now be at 9 o'clock. Piston 7 and 4 can now have their springs changed. And FINALLY, rotate the crank another 90 degrees and the cam gear dot will be at 10:30. You can now change your remaining four springs on piston 3 and 2.
Once again, that's 1 & 6, rotate 90, 8 & 5, rotate 90, 7 & 4, rotate 90, 3 & 2.
Top dead center method
This method requires you to put the piston at the highest position in the bore, so that when you start to compress the spring, the valve can only drop until it hits the piston. When the piston is at top dead center, the valve can't move very far at all.
There are several ways to accomplish this:
A) You can place a small stick/rod/straw/something into the spark plug hole and have a buddy turn the crankshaft by putting the stock 24mm crank pulley bolt in and turning the bolt with a wrench. You should be able to feel when the piston comes up to the top.
B) This method is a bit more elegant. Rotate your motor over by hand until your cam gear and crank gear are dot to dot like you set them up as earlier. At this position, piston 1 and 6 should be at top dead center. You can change the 4 springs on these 2 cylinders now using the instructions below. After you change those 4, then, rotate the crankshaft a full 90 degrees, and the cam gear dot will turn 45 degrees, as if it is pointing to 7:30 if it were a clock. Now piston 8 and 5 are at the top and can be changed. Rotate another 90 degrees on the crank and your cam gear dot will now be at 9 o'clock. Piston 7 and 4 can now have their springs changed. And FINALLY, rotate the crank another 90 degrees and the cam gear dot will be at 10:30. You can now change your remaining four springs on piston 3 and 2.
Once again, that's 1 & 6, rotate 90, 8 & 5, rotate 90, 7 & 4, rotate 90, 3 & 2.
06-13-2005, 03:55 PM
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Thanks again predator and best of all it requires no extra purchases 
This brings me to my next question. I know I put it in gear in order to get the crank bolt out and back in, so do I just take it out of gear to hand turn the motor over? Lastly, I guess getting the pully back in is a heck of a job. I have read about heating and all that but looks like the best way is to get a longer bolt than the stock crank bolts (I am guessing the used crank bolt is not long enough to grab the threads in order to pull the pull on). Where can I get one of these longer bolts. What size would I need and what thread. I have searched the vendors. Thanks again for your time and patience as you have been a big help.
Jim K.
This brings me to my next question. I know I put it in gear in order to get the crank bolt out and back in, so do I just take it out of gear to hand turn the motor over? Lastly, I guess getting the pully back in is a heck of a job. I have read about heating and all that but looks like the best way is to get a longer bolt than the stock crank bolts (I am guessing the used crank bolt is not long enough to grab the threads in order to pull the pull on). Where can I get one of these longer bolts. What size would I need and what thread. I have searched the vendors. Thanks again for your time and patience as you have been a big help.Jim K.
Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
This is a description by JMX
Top dead center method
This method requires you to put the piston at the highest position in the bore, so that when you start to compress the spring, the valve can only drop until it hits the piston. When the piston is at top dead center, the valve can't move very far at all.
There are several ways to accomplish this:
A) You can place a small stick/rod/straw/something into the spark plug hole and have a buddy turn the crankshaft by putting the stock 24mm crank pulley bolt in and turning the bolt with a wrench. You should be able to feel when the piston comes up to the top.
B) This method is a bit more elegant. Rotate your motor over by hand until your cam gear and crank gear are dot to dot like you set them up as earlier. At this position, piston 1 and 6 should be at top dead center. You can change the 4 springs on these 2 cylinders now using the instructions below. After you change those 4, then, rotate the crankshaft a full 90 degrees, and the cam gear dot will turn 45 degrees, as if it is pointing to 7:30 if it were a clock. Now piston 8 and 5 are at the top and can be changed. Rotate another 90 degrees on the crank and your cam gear dot will now be at 9 o'clock. Piston 7 and 4 can now have their springs changed. And FINALLY, rotate the crank another 90 degrees and the cam gear dot will be at 10:30. You can now change your remaining four springs on piston 3 and 2.
Once again, that's 1 & 6, rotate 90, 8 & 5, rotate 90, 7 & 4, rotate 90, 3 & 2.
Top dead center method
This method requires you to put the piston at the highest position in the bore, so that when you start to compress the spring, the valve can only drop until it hits the piston. When the piston is at top dead center, the valve can't move very far at all.
There are several ways to accomplish this:
A) You can place a small stick/rod/straw/something into the spark plug hole and have a buddy turn the crankshaft by putting the stock 24mm crank pulley bolt in and turning the bolt with a wrench. You should be able to feel when the piston comes up to the top.
B) This method is a bit more elegant. Rotate your motor over by hand until your cam gear and crank gear are dot to dot like you set them up as earlier. At this position, piston 1 and 6 should be at top dead center. You can change the 4 springs on these 2 cylinders now using the instructions below. After you change those 4, then, rotate the crankshaft a full 90 degrees, and the cam gear dot will turn 45 degrees, as if it is pointing to 7:30 if it were a clock. Now piston 8 and 5 are at the top and can be changed. Rotate another 90 degrees on the crank and your cam gear dot will now be at 9 o'clock. Piston 7 and 4 can now have their springs changed. And FINALLY, rotate the crank another 90 degrees and the cam gear dot will be at 10:30. You can now change your remaining four springs on piston 3 and 2.
Once again, that's 1 & 6, rotate 90, 8 & 5, rotate 90, 7 & 4, rotate 90, 3 & 2.
06-13-2005, 04:33 PM
#7
TECH Senior Member
Originally Posted by Corpsvette
Thanks again predator and best of all it requires no extra purchases This brings me to my next question. I know I put it in gear in order to get the crank bolt out and back in, so do I just take it out of gear to hand turn the motor over?
This brings me to my next question. I know I put it in gear in order to get the crank bolt out and back in, so do I just take it out of gear to hand turn the motor over?
Lastly, I guess getting the pully back in is a heck of a job. I have read about heating and all that but looks like the best way is to get a longer bolt than the stock crank bolts (I am guessing the used crank bolt is not long enough to grab the threads in order to pull the pull on). Where can I get one of these longer bolts. What size would I need and what thread. I have searched the vendors. Thanks again for your time and patience as you have been a big help.
You can find them at most hardware stores or Napa, Autozone etc...
Still you should heat your pulley at 250*F for 10 minutes or so, that will make the job a breeze.
Don't forget your mittons
Glad to be of help.
