which large CI motor?
06-15-2005, 04:01 PM
#1
7 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (42)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: paducah, ky
Posts: 4,558
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
which large CI motor? I know there are several large combinations to be made.
my personal goal(s) is to have a Nasty street car and be a good 1/8th car.
im looking for 6.0x's in the 8th N/A and 5.50 and below when on the juice (200-300 DP)
it will be about a 3000lb race weight (lighter if i can help it)
will be using a th350 and 12 bolt (4.10 atleast) with supporting chassis mods and afco double adjustable shocks.
the car will be ran N/A 90% of the time becuase it will be driven on weekends and will be a bracket car and also a heads up (when on the juice- 10% of the time)
my delimma is what 400+ CI motor will fit my needs.
I'd like to shift between 65xx-and 71xx RPMS...
hopefully this doesnt sound like a fairy tale... but if it does please point it out.
thanks for your help,
Tyler
my personal goal(s) is to have a Nasty street car and be a good 1/8th car.
im looking for 6.0x's in the 8th N/A and 5.50 and below when on the juice (200-300 DP)
it will be about a 3000lb race weight (lighter if i can help it)
will be using a th350 and 12 bolt (4.10 atleast) with supporting chassis mods and afco double adjustable shocks.
the car will be ran N/A 90% of the time becuase it will be driven on weekends and will be a bracket car and also a heads up (when on the juice- 10% of the time)
my delimma is what 400+ CI motor will fit my needs.
I'd like to shift between 65xx-and 71xx RPMS...
hopefully this doesnt sound like a fairy tale... but if it does please point it out.
thanks for your help,
Tyler
06-15-2005, 04:03 PM
#2
TECH Junkie
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Lakeland, FL
Posts: 3,242
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
hmmmm for all out race alot of guys go iron but the weight of an aluminum engine would be real nice for sure.
Even though I have an iron block im gonna say aluminum cause the next motor I do will probably be this for weight.
go aluminum ls2 or if you can afford get the c5r block.
Even though I have an iron block im gonna say aluminum cause the next motor I do will probably be this for weight.
go aluminum ls2 or if you can afford get the c5r block.
06-15-2005, 10:50 PM
#3
7 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (42)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: paducah, ky
Posts: 4,558
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Mike K.
hmmmm for all out race alot of guys go iron but the weight of an aluminum engine would be real nice for sure.
Even though I have an iron block im gonna say aluminum cause the next motor I do will probably be this for weight.
go aluminum ls2 or if you can afford get the c5r block.
Even though I have an iron block im gonna say aluminum cause the next motor I do will probably be this for weight.
go aluminum ls2 or if you can afford get the c5r block.
whats the difference between the wet sleeved ls1 and the ls2?
06-15-2005, 11:50 PM
#4
TECH Regular
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 415
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by ty_ty13
whats the difference between the wet sleeved ls1 and the ls2?
This site contains everything regarding your questions, but you will probably have to use the search function to get the answers.Summary: LS2 (aluminum) with a stroker crank will yield 402ci without a sleeve. If you want to go with a bigger bore, you will have to start lookinig at the C5R block (427ci), a re-sleeved block (search: Darton), or wait for the LS7 crate engine which should be on the streets in a couple of months.
06-16-2005, 08:18 AM
#5
TECH Senior Member
Ty-Ty,
You keep asking the same questions.
First order is $$$$. State your budget.
For any good stocker aluminum, you're looking at $10K>$15K full setup. That is motor and supporting peripherals.
IMO you should target 600rwhp on juice (100 shot), so 480>500 N/A
That can be achieved easily by 402 LS2 or Max effort 383 with a 3100>3200 raceweight.
You keep asking the same questions.
First order is $$$$. State your budget.
For any good stocker aluminum, you're looking at $10K>$15K full setup. That is motor and supporting peripherals.
IMO you should target 600rwhp on juice (100 shot), so 480>500 N/A
That can be achieved easily by 402 LS2 or Max effort 383 with a 3100>3200 raceweight.
06-16-2005, 08:28 AM
#6
7 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (42)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: paducah, ky
Posts: 4,558
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
Ty-Ty,
You keep asking the same questions.
First order is $$$$. State your budget.
For any good stocker aluminum, you're looking at $10K>$15K full setup. That is motor and supporting peripherals.
IMO you should target 600rwhp on juice (100 shot), so 480>500 N/A
That can be achieved easily by 402 LS2 or Max effort 383 with a 3100>3200 raceweight.
You keep asking the same questions.
First order is $$$$. State your budget.
For any good stocker aluminum, you're looking at $10K>$15K full setup. That is motor and supporting peripherals.
IMO you should target 600rwhp on juice (100 shot), so 480>500 N/A
That can be achieved easily by 402 LS2 or Max effort 383 with a 3100>3200 raceweight.
i dont believe im asking the same questions.... I've been looking and asking about several different motor combinations.
from all bore to all stroke to 400+ CI motors.
Im sorry if you feel like i ask too many questions but I've learned that if you dont ask questions youll be sorry in the long run.
I'm definately not mad but i just dont understand why you'd make a remark about "asking the same thing" when this site is the only way i have to learn about LSx motors. believe me I've tried calling and emailing some of the sponsors but unless you buying something from them they dont want to spend there time helping you ( which i dont blame them because they wont make any $ doing that).
but any ways enough of my ranting... i just want to know the whole low down of the large CI motor before i drop 8grand and dont know what im doing.
Tyler
06-16-2005, 08:41 AM
#7
7 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (42)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: paducah, ky
Posts: 4,558
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
Ty-Ty,
You keep asking the same questions.
First order is $$$$. State your budget.
For any good stocker aluminum, you're looking at $10K>$15K full setup. That is motor and supporting peripherals.
IMO you should target 600rwhp on juice (100 shot), so 480>500 N/A
That can be achieved easily by 402 LS2 or Max effort 383 with a 3100>3200 raceweight.
You keep asking the same questions.
First order is $$$$. State your budget.
For any good stocker aluminum, you're looking at $10K>$15K full setup. That is motor and supporting peripherals.
IMO you should target 600rwhp on juice (100 shot), so 480>500 N/A
That can be achieved easily by 402 LS2 or Max effort 383 with a 3100>3200 raceweight.
as far as the motor im looking to build... I think the only thing I'll need will be internals and a EWP and a larger set of headers (later on).
I plan on building it my self with the help of a great mechanic.
I also know some guys who Drive the Holley truck to the NHRA IHRA events so prices on parts are good
so what i think im looking at for sleeving and maching the block is about 2200$ shipped there and back to my door... done.
Rotating ***'y $2000
custom cam $400 (Futral motorsports)
all pro TEA ported 2800 or some AFR 225
labor probably about 300-600.
new converter 1000$
new drive shaft 400
already have the bolt-ons... even the 90/90
and have a th350 waiting to go with the new motor
I feel like im looking at about $10,000 tops.
thanks for your help Predator!
Tyler
Trending Topics
06-16-2005, 11:08 AM
#8
I can tell you what I'm currently getting.
ARE 412ci LS2 all stroke
-Eagle 4.100
-Wiseco piston
-Compstar 6.125 rod
-Morel lifters
-all ARP hardware
-Comp Cam 242-250 .625-.630 112lsa
-Comp Cam Pro Magnum 1.75 rockers
-11.2:1 compression
Thru an M6 with a street twin disk.
I'm going with an ARE Stg 3 LS6 head, but an AFR or AllPro would yeild more power and be good for the juice.
JMTW
Rampant
ARE 412ci LS2 all stroke
-Eagle 4.100
-Wiseco piston
-Compstar 6.125 rod
-Morel lifters
-all ARP hardware
-Comp Cam 242-250 .625-.630 112lsa
-Comp Cam Pro Magnum 1.75 rockers
-11.2:1 compression
Thru an M6 with a street twin disk.
I'm going with an ARE Stg 3 LS6 head, but an AFR or AllPro would yeild more power and be good for the juice.
JMTW
Rampant
06-16-2005, 11:20 AM
#9
7 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (42)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: paducah, ky
Posts: 4,558
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by RAMPANT
I can tell you what I'm currently getting.
ARE 412ci LS2 all stroke
-Eagle 4.100
-Wiseco piston
-Compstar 6.125 rod
-Morel lifters
-all ARP hardware
-Comp Cam 242-250 .625-.630 112lsa
-Comp Cam Pro Magnum 1.75 rockers
-11.2:1 compression
Thru an M6 with a street twin disk.
I'm going with an ARE Stg 3 LS6 head, but an AFR or AllPro would yeild more power and be good for the juice.
JMTW
Rampant
ARE 412ci LS2 all stroke
-Eagle 4.100
-Wiseco piston
-Compstar 6.125 rod
-Morel lifters
-all ARP hardware
-Comp Cam 242-250 .625-.630 112lsa
-Comp Cam Pro Magnum 1.75 rockers
-11.2:1 compression
Thru an M6 with a street twin disk.
I'm going with an ARE Stg 3 LS6 head, but an AFR or AllPro would yeild more power and be good for the juice.
JMTW
Rampant
what made you choose the ls2 block?
how come no one chooses to resleeve their old ls1 block?
06-16-2005, 11:38 AM
#10
Originally Posted by ty_ty13
sounds like it will be a fun setup... i like your CR choice... mine will also be some where from 11-12.5
what made you choose the ls2 block?
how come no one chooses to resleeve their old ls1 block?
what made you choose the ls2 block?
how come no one chooses to resleeve their old ls1 block?
It will be a street and a little NA track action motor. I hope to see 500 + rwhp on an M6, 12 bolt 3.73 with all emissions in place (703000 random cats) + 94 octane.
I will know better in about 3 weeks.
Rampant
06-16-2005, 11:38 AM
#11
Many people choose to resleave their LS1 block's, but the LS2 is the new thing.
It is cheeper then a resleave job.
The goals your seting are going to be almost impossible without some serious building of the whole car.
Making this power and torque is going to bring the whole front end of the ground. You are going to need some good suspension especially with the gears your going to run.
I hope you dont plan on driving this car much as your setup isn't going to make a good long distance car.
If your 1/8 mile only a 456 gear might be better but your going to have to shift fast as ****.
Also you need to decide how your gonna get then nitrous to work.
Running 6.0's in the 1/8 is gonna require a bigger converter then you have now probally a 5000-5400.
Spraying on top of such a large stall isn't going to make the car run much faster at all and will be almost a waste of juice.
It is cheeper then a resleave job.
The goals your seting are going to be almost impossible without some serious building of the whole car.
Making this power and torque is going to bring the whole front end of the ground. You are going to need some good suspension especially with the gears your going to run.
I hope you dont plan on driving this car much as your setup isn't going to make a good long distance car.
If your 1/8 mile only a 456 gear might be better but your going to have to shift fast as ****.
Also you need to decide how your gonna get then nitrous to work.
Running 6.0's in the 1/8 is gonna require a bigger converter then you have now probally a 5000-5400.
Spraying on top of such a large stall isn't going to make the car run much faster at all and will be almost a waste of juice.
06-16-2005, 11:59 AM
#12
THIS POST IS GONNA BE VERY LONG BUT SHOULD HELP QUITE A BIT.
Fear the LS1 has a car that you should look into.
He has been hard at racing for the past 3 years at least.
His 1/8 mile times are very close to what your trying to achieve.
Here is a little about his car and parts he had you will need.
I've started another motor project and my new setup is going to require a trick top end. I'm currently running a 408 iron block with a FMS solid roller cam, my car put down 585 rwhp (all motor) and runs consistant 9.60s@140 at 3350 # race weight without breaking a sweat.
Lets start with his fuel system.
Aluminum 3 Gallon Fuel Cell (2x -10AN Feeds, 1 is capped, 1 -6AN Return, 1 Rollover Valve)
Aeromotive Fuel Filter (-10AN IN/ -10AN OUT)
Weldon EFI Fuel Pump (-10AN IN/-8AN OUT...Dont know the model, but this is a big dog fuel pump)
Steel Braided -8AN Feed Line from pump (Trunk) to Fuel Rail (Engine Bay)
Speed Inc Fuel Rails (Powder Coated Blue, has a couple scuffs from working on the car)
Steel Braided -8AN Crossover on Fuel Rails
42# FMS Green Injectors
Steel Braided -8AN line from fuel rail to Fuel Pressure Regulator
Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator (Has 2 or 3 -8AN Feeds and -6AN return ports)
Fuel Pressure guage (mounted to FPR)
Steel Braided -6AN Return Line from FPR to top of Fuel Cell in trunk
Here is his drivetrain setup.
JW Pro TH400
-JW Ultra Bell Housing
-2.75 1st gear
-Drag Free Option
-Pro Tree Transbrake
-Reverse Manual Valve Body
-Deep Tranny Pan
-Autometer trans Temp Sensor + Guage
-Yank TH400 X-Member
-Madman Trans Dip Stick
It has everything you need to bolt into an Fbody
B&M Trans Cooler
-6AN Braided Lines to and from Cooler
-Cooler was mounted to front of radiator in the nose of the car
TCI 8" 5000 stall converter
TCI SFI LS1 Flexplate
Cheetah STS Shifter
-Reverse manual gate plate
Dedenbear RPM/Co2 Air Shifter Kit
-Rpm Switch Box
-Co2 Solenoid
-Co2 Bottle
-Bottle Mount for Roll Bar
The rpm switch box was customized by Dedenbear to work with the LS1 PCM/Ignition, so it will only work on the LS1 now, if your buying this it won't work on other cars etc.
HD Steel Drive Shaft
-1350 Yoke
-1200+ HP rated, high speed balanced
Ignition and 2 step setup.
I'm selling the ignition system + 2 step from my 02 Camaro SS race car. I'm buying all new stuff for my new motor, so I've decided to sell a few things to help cover the cost.
I put alot of custom work into the ignition. First, I relocated my coil packs. I made a simple U-bracket to hold the coil packs. These mount using the bolts from the shock tower. I went this route instead of mounting them under the dash. If you want to mount the under the dash you can easily modify or add to my brackets to do so. You will find there is sufficient plug wire length and the engine harness will reach with no problem. This bring brings me to #2.. I completely re-spliced the Harlan wiring harness and my ignition coil wiring to be extended so it can reach the relocated coils. I've also included the best LS1 plug wires out there, Taylor Thundervolt 10.5mm plug wires. These plug wires are from the Thunder Racing Coil Pack Relocation Kit. The relocation kit alone from TR cost $199 retail. I've also decided to just throw in my original 8 coils from my 02 Camaro.
Headers.
Kooks 1-7/8" to 2" Stepped Headers with 3.5" Collector for LS1 Fbody:
These are my Kooks Headers from my Camaro race car, My new motor will require larger headers. I bought these brand new back in November 04 for $1200, they are in good shape with only 50 passes on them. The only thing to note is, on the very first pass with my 408 motor the car went verticle at No Problem Raceway. I stayed in it but when the nose came down it put some small dents in the bottom of the headers. I still ran a 9.89@138 all motor my first run. The car eventually got dialed into the 9.60s NA as I ever took the headers off the car.
Water pump.
Meziere Electric Water Pump:
Rockers
T&D 1.8 Shaft Rockers
These rockers are just plain awesome. I've used them on both my Solid Roller 346 and 408. If you have a badass hyd cam or are going solid roller these are the rockers of choice. Unfortunately, I am unable to use them on my new motor, so I've decided to sell them to add funds to the new project.
HEADS
The heads are true LS6 castings, they have:
2.08 intake valves
1.60 exhaust valves
Custom Manley solid roller valves
1.55" diameter solid roller springs (New)
Comp lightweight retainers
Custom machining for 3/8" pushrods
Flow #'s:
.200 147.4 111.0
.300 213.7 167.3
.400 263.3 209.2
.450 280.7
.500 299.1 232.6
.550 315.5
.600 325.2 238.2
.650 326.2
.700 324.8 242.4
.750 325.2
.800 325.8 245.0
.850 326.4
.900 327.8 245.5
These #'s are with no pipe
Also need pushrods.
Camshaft
FMS-Godzilla cam 278/284 .793/.793 106 LSA
Fast 90TB and Intake which you already have.
This should be a good start for you.
As you can see his car runs very similar times to the numbers your after. It isn't gonna be easy.
Fear the LS1 has a car that you should look into.
He has been hard at racing for the past 3 years at least.
His 1/8 mile times are very close to what your trying to achieve.
Here is a little about his car and parts he had you will need.
I've started another motor project and my new setup is going to require a trick top end. I'm currently running a 408 iron block with a FMS solid roller cam, my car put down 585 rwhp (all motor) and runs consistant 9.60s@140 at 3350 # race weight without breaking a sweat.
Lets start with his fuel system.
Aluminum 3 Gallon Fuel Cell (2x -10AN Feeds, 1 is capped, 1 -6AN Return, 1 Rollover Valve)
Aeromotive Fuel Filter (-10AN IN/ -10AN OUT)
Weldon EFI Fuel Pump (-10AN IN/-8AN OUT...Dont know the model, but this is a big dog fuel pump)
Steel Braided -8AN Feed Line from pump (Trunk) to Fuel Rail (Engine Bay)
Speed Inc Fuel Rails (Powder Coated Blue, has a couple scuffs from working on the car)
Steel Braided -8AN Crossover on Fuel Rails
42# FMS Green Injectors
Steel Braided -8AN line from fuel rail to Fuel Pressure Regulator
Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator (Has 2 or 3 -8AN Feeds and -6AN return ports)
Fuel Pressure guage (mounted to FPR)
Steel Braided -6AN Return Line from FPR to top of Fuel Cell in trunk
Here is his drivetrain setup.
JW Pro TH400
-JW Ultra Bell Housing
-2.75 1st gear
-Drag Free Option
-Pro Tree Transbrake
-Reverse Manual Valve Body
-Deep Tranny Pan
-Autometer trans Temp Sensor + Guage
-Yank TH400 X-Member
-Madman Trans Dip Stick
It has everything you need to bolt into an Fbody
B&M Trans Cooler
-6AN Braided Lines to and from Cooler
-Cooler was mounted to front of radiator in the nose of the car
TCI 8" 5000 stall converter
TCI SFI LS1 Flexplate
Cheetah STS Shifter
-Reverse manual gate plate
Dedenbear RPM/Co2 Air Shifter Kit
-Rpm Switch Box
-Co2 Solenoid
-Co2 Bottle
-Bottle Mount for Roll Bar
The rpm switch box was customized by Dedenbear to work with the LS1 PCM/Ignition, so it will only work on the LS1 now, if your buying this it won't work on other cars etc.
HD Steel Drive Shaft
-1350 Yoke
-1200+ HP rated, high speed balanced
Ignition and 2 step setup.
I'm selling the ignition system + 2 step from my 02 Camaro SS race car. I'm buying all new stuff for my new motor, so I've decided to sell a few things to help cover the cost.
I put alot of custom work into the ignition. First, I relocated my coil packs. I made a simple U-bracket to hold the coil packs. These mount using the bolts from the shock tower. I went this route instead of mounting them under the dash. If you want to mount the under the dash you can easily modify or add to my brackets to do so. You will find there is sufficient plug wire length and the engine harness will reach with no problem. This bring brings me to #2.. I completely re-spliced the Harlan wiring harness and my ignition coil wiring to be extended so it can reach the relocated coils. I've also included the best LS1 plug wires out there, Taylor Thundervolt 10.5mm plug wires. These plug wires are from the Thunder Racing Coil Pack Relocation Kit. The relocation kit alone from TR cost $199 retail. I've also decided to just throw in my original 8 coils from my 02 Camaro.
Headers.
Kooks 1-7/8" to 2" Stepped Headers with 3.5" Collector for LS1 Fbody:
These are my Kooks Headers from my Camaro race car, My new motor will require larger headers. I bought these brand new back in November 04 for $1200, they are in good shape with only 50 passes on them. The only thing to note is, on the very first pass with my 408 motor the car went verticle at No Problem Raceway. I stayed in it but when the nose came down it put some small dents in the bottom of the headers. I still ran a 9.89@138 all motor my first run. The car eventually got dialed into the 9.60s NA as I ever took the headers off the car.
Water pump.
Meziere Electric Water Pump:
Rockers
T&D 1.8 Shaft Rockers
These rockers are just plain awesome. I've used them on both my Solid Roller 346 and 408. If you have a badass hyd cam or are going solid roller these are the rockers of choice. Unfortunately, I am unable to use them on my new motor, so I've decided to sell them to add funds to the new project.
HEADS
The heads are true LS6 castings, they have:
2.08 intake valves
1.60 exhaust valves
Custom Manley solid roller valves
1.55" diameter solid roller springs (New)
Comp lightweight retainers
Custom machining for 3/8" pushrods
Flow #'s:
.200 147.4 111.0
.300 213.7 167.3
.400 263.3 209.2
.450 280.7
.500 299.1 232.6
.550 315.5
.600 325.2 238.2
.650 326.2
.700 324.8 242.4
.750 325.2
.800 325.8 245.0
.850 326.4
.900 327.8 245.5
These #'s are with no pipe
Also need pushrods.
Camshaft
FMS-Godzilla cam 278/284 .793/.793 106 LSA
Fast 90TB and Intake which you already have.
This should be a good start for you.
As you can see his car runs very similar times to the numbers your after. It isn't gonna be easy.
06-16-2005, 12:57 PM
#13
7 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (42)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: paducah, ky
Posts: 4,558
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by JZ'sTA
THIS POST IS GONNA BE VERY LONG BUT SHOULD HELP QUITE A BIT.
Fear the LS1 has a car that you should look into.
He has been hard at racing for the past 3 years at least.
His 1/8 mile times are very close to what your trying to achieve.
Here is a little about his car and parts he had you will need.
I've started another motor project and my new setup is going to require a trick top end. I'm currently running a 408 iron block with a FMS solid roller cam, my car put down 585 rwhp (all motor) and runs consistant 9.60s@140 at 3350 # race weight without breaking a sweat.
Lets start with his fuel system.
Aluminum 3 Gallon Fuel Cell (2x -10AN Feeds, 1 is capped, 1 -6AN Return, 1 Rollover Valve)
Aeromotive Fuel Filter (-10AN IN/ -10AN OUT)
Weldon EFI Fuel Pump (-10AN IN/-8AN OUT...Dont know the model, but this is a big dog fuel pump)
Steel Braided -8AN Feed Line from pump (Trunk) to Fuel Rail (Engine Bay)
Speed Inc Fuel Rails (Powder Coated Blue, has a couple scuffs from working on the car)
Steel Braided -8AN Crossover on Fuel Rails
42# FMS Green Injectors
Steel Braided -8AN line from fuel rail to Fuel Pressure Regulator
Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator (Has 2 or 3 -8AN Feeds and -6AN return ports)
Fuel Pressure guage (mounted to FPR)
Steel Braided -6AN Return Line from FPR to top of Fuel Cell in trunk
Here is his drivetrain setup.
JW Pro TH400
-JW Ultra Bell Housing
-2.75 1st gear
-Drag Free Option
-Pro Tree Transbrake
-Reverse Manual Valve Body
-Deep Tranny Pan
-Autometer trans Temp Sensor + Guage
-Yank TH400 X-Member
-Madman Trans Dip Stick
It has everything you need to bolt into an Fbody
B&M Trans Cooler
-6AN Braided Lines to and from Cooler
-Cooler was mounted to front of radiator in the nose of the car
TCI 8" 5000 stall converter
TCI SFI LS1 Flexplate
Cheetah STS Shifter
-Reverse manual gate plate
Dedenbear RPM/Co2 Air Shifter Kit
-Rpm Switch Box
-Co2 Solenoid
-Co2 Bottle
-Bottle Mount for Roll Bar
The rpm switch box was customized by Dedenbear to work with the LS1 PCM/Ignition, so it will only work on the LS1 now, if your buying this it won't work on other cars etc.
HD Steel Drive Shaft
-1350 Yoke
-1200+ HP rated, high speed balanced
Ignition and 2 step setup.
I'm selling the ignition system + 2 step from my 02 Camaro SS race car. I'm buying all new stuff for my new motor, so I've decided to sell a few things to help cover the cost.
I put alot of custom work into the ignition. First, I relocated my coil packs. I made a simple U-bracket to hold the coil packs. These mount using the bolts from the shock tower. I went this route instead of mounting them under the dash. If you want to mount the under the dash you can easily modify or add to my brackets to do so. You will find there is sufficient plug wire length and the engine harness will reach with no problem. This bring brings me to #2.. I completely re-spliced the Harlan wiring harness and my ignition coil wiring to be extended so it can reach the relocated coils. I've also included the best LS1 plug wires out there, Taylor Thundervolt 10.5mm plug wires. These plug wires are from the Thunder Racing Coil Pack Relocation Kit. The relocation kit alone from TR cost $199 retail. I've also decided to just throw in my original 8 coils from my 02 Camaro.
Headers.
Kooks 1-7/8" to 2" Stepped Headers with 3.5" Collector for LS1 Fbody:
These are my Kooks Headers from my Camaro race car, My new motor will require larger headers. I bought these brand new back in November 04 for $1200, they are in good shape with only 50 passes on them. The only thing to note is, on the very first pass with my 408 motor the car went verticle at No Problem Raceway. I stayed in it but when the nose came down it put some small dents in the bottom of the headers. I still ran a 9.89@138 all motor my first run. The car eventually got dialed into the 9.60s NA as I ever took the headers off the car.
Water pump.
Meziere Electric Water Pump:
Rockers
T&D 1.8 Shaft Rockers
These rockers are just plain awesome. I've used them on both my Solid Roller 346 and 408. If you have a badass hyd cam or are going solid roller these are the rockers of choice. Unfortunately, I am unable to use them on my new motor, so I've decided to sell them to add funds to the new project.
HEADS
The heads are true LS6 castings, they have:
2.08 intake valves
1.60 exhaust valves
Custom Manley solid roller valves
1.55" diameter solid roller springs (New)
Comp lightweight retainers
Custom machining for 3/8" pushrods
Flow #'s:
.200 147.4 111.0
.300 213.7 167.3
.400 263.3 209.2
.450 280.7
.500 299.1 232.6
.550 315.5
.600 325.2 238.2
.650 326.2
.700 324.8 242.4
.750 325.2
.800 325.8 245.0
.850 326.4
.900 327.8 245.5
These #'s are with no pipe
Also need pushrods.
Camshaft
FMS-Godzilla cam 278/284 .793/.793 106 LSA
Fast 90TB and Intake which you already have.
This should be a good start for you.
As you can see his car runs very similar times to the numbers your after. It isn't gonna be easy.
Fear the LS1 has a car that you should look into.
He has been hard at racing for the past 3 years at least.
His 1/8 mile times are very close to what your trying to achieve.
Here is a little about his car and parts he had you will need.
I've started another motor project and my new setup is going to require a trick top end. I'm currently running a 408 iron block with a FMS solid roller cam, my car put down 585 rwhp (all motor) and runs consistant 9.60s@140 at 3350 # race weight without breaking a sweat.
Lets start with his fuel system.
Aluminum 3 Gallon Fuel Cell (2x -10AN Feeds, 1 is capped, 1 -6AN Return, 1 Rollover Valve)
Aeromotive Fuel Filter (-10AN IN/ -10AN OUT)
Weldon EFI Fuel Pump (-10AN IN/-8AN OUT...Dont know the model, but this is a big dog fuel pump)
Steel Braided -8AN Feed Line from pump (Trunk) to Fuel Rail (Engine Bay)
Speed Inc Fuel Rails (Powder Coated Blue, has a couple scuffs from working on the car)
Steel Braided -8AN Crossover on Fuel Rails
42# FMS Green Injectors
Steel Braided -8AN line from fuel rail to Fuel Pressure Regulator
Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator (Has 2 or 3 -8AN Feeds and -6AN return ports)
Fuel Pressure guage (mounted to FPR)
Steel Braided -6AN Return Line from FPR to top of Fuel Cell in trunk
Here is his drivetrain setup.
JW Pro TH400
-JW Ultra Bell Housing
-2.75 1st gear
-Drag Free Option
-Pro Tree Transbrake
-Reverse Manual Valve Body
-Deep Tranny Pan
-Autometer trans Temp Sensor + Guage
-Yank TH400 X-Member
-Madman Trans Dip Stick
It has everything you need to bolt into an Fbody
B&M Trans Cooler
-6AN Braided Lines to and from Cooler
-Cooler was mounted to front of radiator in the nose of the car
TCI 8" 5000 stall converter
TCI SFI LS1 Flexplate
Cheetah STS Shifter
-Reverse manual gate plate
Dedenbear RPM/Co2 Air Shifter Kit
-Rpm Switch Box
-Co2 Solenoid
-Co2 Bottle
-Bottle Mount for Roll Bar
The rpm switch box was customized by Dedenbear to work with the LS1 PCM/Ignition, so it will only work on the LS1 now, if your buying this it won't work on other cars etc.
HD Steel Drive Shaft
-1350 Yoke
-1200+ HP rated, high speed balanced
Ignition and 2 step setup.
I'm selling the ignition system + 2 step from my 02 Camaro SS race car. I'm buying all new stuff for my new motor, so I've decided to sell a few things to help cover the cost.
I put alot of custom work into the ignition. First, I relocated my coil packs. I made a simple U-bracket to hold the coil packs. These mount using the bolts from the shock tower. I went this route instead of mounting them under the dash. If you want to mount the under the dash you can easily modify or add to my brackets to do so. You will find there is sufficient plug wire length and the engine harness will reach with no problem. This bring brings me to #2.. I completely re-spliced the Harlan wiring harness and my ignition coil wiring to be extended so it can reach the relocated coils. I've also included the best LS1 plug wires out there, Taylor Thundervolt 10.5mm plug wires. These plug wires are from the Thunder Racing Coil Pack Relocation Kit. The relocation kit alone from TR cost $199 retail. I've also decided to just throw in my original 8 coils from my 02 Camaro.
Headers.
Kooks 1-7/8" to 2" Stepped Headers with 3.5" Collector for LS1 Fbody:
These are my Kooks Headers from my Camaro race car, My new motor will require larger headers. I bought these brand new back in November 04 for $1200, they are in good shape with only 50 passes on them. The only thing to note is, on the very first pass with my 408 motor the car went verticle at No Problem Raceway. I stayed in it but when the nose came down it put some small dents in the bottom of the headers. I still ran a 9.89@138 all motor my first run. The car eventually got dialed into the 9.60s NA as I ever took the headers off the car.
Water pump.
Meziere Electric Water Pump:
Rockers
T&D 1.8 Shaft Rockers
These rockers are just plain awesome. I've used them on both my Solid Roller 346 and 408. If you have a badass hyd cam or are going solid roller these are the rockers of choice. Unfortunately, I am unable to use them on my new motor, so I've decided to sell them to add funds to the new project.
HEADS
The heads are true LS6 castings, they have:
2.08 intake valves
1.60 exhaust valves
Custom Manley solid roller valves
1.55" diameter solid roller springs (New)
Comp lightweight retainers
Custom machining for 3/8" pushrods
Flow #'s:
.200 147.4 111.0
.300 213.7 167.3
.400 263.3 209.2
.450 280.7
.500 299.1 232.6
.550 315.5
.600 325.2 238.2
.650 326.2
.700 324.8 242.4
.750 325.2
.800 325.8 245.0
.850 326.4
.900 327.8 245.5
These #'s are with no pipe
Also need pushrods.
Camshaft
FMS-Godzilla cam 278/284 .793/.793 106 LSA
Fast 90TB and Intake which you already have.
This should be a good start for you.
As you can see his car runs very similar times to the numbers your after. It isn't gonna be easy.
YEESSSS.... that is exactically what i was wanting to read.... great information!
thanks alot that is much appreciated... this will get me started in the right direction.... as i guessed the cam and heads will have to be superb to run like i want.
now i just have to figure out how to fun that fast and be able to drive it on friday & sunday nights
his race weight is hurting him though
thanks!
Tyler
06-16-2005, 01:07 PM
#14
7 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (42)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: paducah, ky
Posts: 4,558
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
other than building the motor...
im looking at afco double adjustable shocks
and few upgrades to fuel system
weight reduction also....
its achievable... atleast i know that now.
im looking at afco double adjustable shocks
and few upgrades to fuel system
weight reduction also....
its achievable... atleast i know that now.
06-16-2005, 01:08 PM
#15
I know you are getting great information here, but the sponsors not helping you, you just aren't looking in the right direction. I KNOW for SURE that Futral Motorsports will help you out. I haven't bought anything from them and I have probably recieved 20 pms/e-mails regarding what I should do, help on things, and quotes for combos. I wish I lived in Lousianna so I could have, IMO, the best shop, in the United States just around the corner. Give them a call, not only are they helpful, they make some SWEET products (cams)
06-16-2005, 02:07 PM
#16
I agree. Futural has no limit to helping "us" out.
Glad I was of some help.
BTW race weight is gonna be tough to get a lot lower as race weight is with the driver in the car.
Lee (owner of fear the LS1) look like he weights in around 212???
Also the T-400 is heavier, the 12 point (or whatever it is) roll cage you must have, the 30 lbs of fire suit/helmet/gloves you will need. Then he had a extra 80lbs in the iron block. He had quite a bit of weight loss in his car but when you add it all back up it's hard to get the car with the safty equipment under 3000 lbs.
BTW I didn't ask permission to Lee to post all that hopefully he dosen't get mad. If so sorry bud, just trying to help out and your setup seemed perfect.
Glad I was of some help.
BTW race weight is gonna be tough to get a lot lower as race weight is with the driver in the car.
Lee (owner of fear the LS1) look like he weights in around 212???
Also the T-400 is heavier, the 12 point (or whatever it is) roll cage you must have, the 30 lbs of fire suit/helmet/gloves you will need. Then he had a extra 80lbs in the iron block. He had quite a bit of weight loss in his car but when you add it all back up it's hard to get the car with the safty equipment under 3000 lbs.
BTW I didn't ask permission to Lee to post all that hopefully he dosen't get mad. If so sorry bud, just trying to help out and your setup seemed perfect.
