hpjunky98

iTrader: (3)

ok so i have 130,000 miles or so on my car right now (1998 camaro z28 M6) so anyway, the suspension squeeks, the motor has alot of miles, etc. so i was planning on making the car handle like a beast anyway because then it would be a great all arond car. so i set about 1200 aside for suspension alone, as it would make a fun ride. now heres the hard part. the motor/tranny/rear. the motor, i would say from driving it is fine, its not like i can feel somthing wrong at all, but i thought, hey its got alot of miles right...so i was planning on replacing it. the previous owner told me that most of the miles were highway, as he used his car to go to work every day, so i was considering just putting all new ARP bolts in the motor, and having it compression checked. but i'm not so sure. so if i was going to replace the motor, i could go with somthing cheaper and more powerful than a new ls1, but the problem is i'm 18, and i dont know the car like the back of my hand. sure i can drive it on the street no problem, but i want to road race it as well. again, another reason to replace the motor. but the problem is if i want more power id have to go with a new rear, and i really dont want to dump 2k on an axle that would make me loose power just so it wont break. so i have a few options...(all include suspension)

-keep stock block/heads/cam/rear
-keep stock block, but get new rod bolts,etc. and do a mild head/cam and keep stock rear
-keep stock block, but get new rod bolts,etc. and do a mild head/cam and get new rear
-new shortblock/head/cam/rear

i know the last way would be the safest, but i just dont want to spend all that money (i can but i really dont want to if i dont have to.
i already have a set of heads lined up to buy for a little over a grand, but its the rear and shortblock that are killing me. streangthen the stock units or go aftermarket.

If you have read to here thank you, i do appreciate your time and help. i hope this is the correct section, as i want sure.

-Chris

K I L O

iTrader: (5)

These are my best bet i would go for these 2

-keep stock block, but get new rod bolts,etc. and do a mild head/cam and get new rear

-new shortblock/head/cam/rear

hpjunky98

iTrader: (3)

ya its up in the air between those 2...anyone else? any benifits for a 400hp car to have a forged internals motor? what else besides new bolts would i need to keep this engine going for a long time? is it even worth keeping my stock motor or would it save me money in the long run to just get a new shortblock w/ forged internals?

chupr0kabra

iTrader: (10)

My Camaro just became a project car. I have grand plans for it, but time will tell how well I actually follow through. Here is what I'm planning:

LS2 402
Spec III or Textralia clutch (haven't decided)
Get the transmission rebuilt
Billingsley 9" rearend with 4.11 gears

Now, you're 18, so those might not be in your budget. If you ever plan to spray, I would suggest getting a forged bottom end. You can get a forged shortblock for a good price with core exchange (watch the LS1/LS6 Internal section and/or the Group Purchase section). Even if you never plan to run nitrous or do forced induction, a forged bottom end certainly won't hurt.

It really depends on your goals, your timetable, and your budget. Just remember, it all works as a system. If you get a big honking motor, don't expect the tranny and rear end to hold up long...


-Mike

hpjunky98

iTrader: (3)

ya for 1800 bucks at HPE w/ exchange, its not all that bad, its just if its not nesiccary (I always spell that damn word wrong) then id rather use what i already have. now if you would like to know what i plan to do...

UMI Lower Control Arms
UMI Adjustable Panhard Bar
Edelbrock torque arm
UMI Control Arm Relocation
UMI Boxed Subframe Connectors
g2/BMR/etc? Springs
Sam Strano custom Bilstin HDs
MTI stage 2R heads
TR custom grind cam (CheaTR or 224/114)
Hardened pushrods
LS6 Intake - used
March Underdrive pulley
LS2 Timing chain
Ported TB + core
LS6 oil pump
HPE Short block (if stock ls1 fails compression test)
Moser 12 bolt w/ 3.90 gears




thats what i'm working with right now. now i have to pass cali emmisions, thats why its so mild, but i guess thats good for my age as well.

2K2WS6TA

iTrader: (2)

FWIW I would go with the heads/cam/rear and keep the stock short block, drive it like that for a while while you save for a better short block, then when you go to swap all the extras will be there, and it won't be such a shock to the old wallet
BTW IIRC it's SAM that's was/is building up a 99 with 100k on it and are having good luck with the SB holding up (the sensors are getting them tho) so the LS1 is a pretty reliable engine (as long as it's been cared for) even at higher power levels.
The rear on the other hand is marginal even at the stock power,(especially with a 6 speed) so that should probably be the first thing you buy
If the motor passes the compression check, when you swap the heads, look at the cylinder walls if they look good (no gouges/scratches, etc) I'd say your SB will be good to use for good amount of miles

hpjunky98

iTrader: (3)

ok so am i putting the H/C at risk by using the stock shortblock? if anything should happen, would they be harmed?

hpjunky98

iTrader: (3)

t t t i need previous question answered^

hpjunky98

iTrader: (3)

ill go without the shortblock for now if somone will just answer that question... i dont want to put all that $$$ to risk

2K2WS6TA

iTrader: (2)

Depends on what fails, a simple spun bearing, you can probably save most of the engine (except the crank of course)
If it's a catastophic failure, the yes you could damage the H/C.
Again it depends on the failure mode.