solid roller motor questions
#1
solid roller motor questions
i've been doing the math on the motor i'm building, and i keep coming up with a peak hp at 8350rpm. my question is; how much is too much in an ls1? the solid roller valvetrain will be as light as i can get it; and i will be running a 347 with the longest rod possible, and highest compression i can make.
what are the limiting factors? help! i only want to change valvesprings once per season, or 25-40 runs. am i asking too much?
PS this is a race motor, that may see 10 miles of street duty each year.
what are the limiting factors? help! i only want to change valvesprings once per season, or 25-40 runs. am i asking too much?
PS this is a race motor, that may see 10 miles of street duty each year.
#4
Originally Posted by RyanJ
It can be done. Are you looking to rebuild every season? How much cash are you sinking into this? Where did you get 8350rpm?
it makes good power, but i'm afraid this motor will want to rev hard -way hard.
i know these software dyno programs are a joke, obviously nothing works like dyno time, but so far this program has been dead-nuts right on the money; as long as a guy knows how to use it.
EDIT the motor will more than likely be out for a rebuild each season.
#5
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You're going to want great control so lightest pieces isn't always going to work. I'd go Jesel Rockers, Manton Puhrods, & Morel Lifters. Hollow Stem or Ti valves would be a good idea too. For a valve spring you could get people argueing until they are blue in the face about it, but I'd go with a Bee-hive style spring, and that's just my opinion so take it for what it's worth.
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The oiling system is the biggest factor in the ls motors and is the only reason I'm keeping my 434 to 7500 or less rpms. Dry sump will let you do anything you want though.
Question, what cam, head, and intake combonation did you use to arrive at the 8300rpm figure?
Question, what cam, head, and intake combonation did you use to arrive at the 8300rpm figure?
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The dry sump setup will solve some problems however it will not solve the oiling issues inside the block. You can do some things to smooth the path of oil flow however that still will probably not be enough. I have seen an external wetsump fail plumbed directly into the block -- where you would plumb a dry sump.
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So you are basing the 8350 figure on the cam alone? Be aware that if you do that you'll spend a lot more money getting the rest of the motor to keep up with the cam, rather than spending $400 on a different cam. But anywho.
Go with what MUSTANGEATER posts, they are good pieces (but I would really go with what Ed at FTI recommends...because I'd just call him with my head/intake/bottom end/rpm specs and have him spec a cam that will work). Also, if you have the cash for Ti valves, get some aluminum rods...you'll spin higher and faster easier, but you'll probably need to rebuild every season and at least check the rods. Technology is getting better, but you never know with rod stretch. Jager makes a ceramic/aluminum rod that is supposed to survive street car stuff but still weight much less than steel rods. Good stuff, but expensive. Call Ed Curtis at FTI (EDC on here).
Oh yeah, if you are gonna spin that high, go to www.drysump.com and start buying.
Go with what MUSTANGEATER posts, they are good pieces (but I would really go with what Ed at FTI recommends...because I'd just call him with my head/intake/bottom end/rpm specs and have him spec a cam that will work). Also, if you have the cash for Ti valves, get some aluminum rods...you'll spin higher and faster easier, but you'll probably need to rebuild every season and at least check the rods. Technology is getting better, but you never know with rod stretch. Jager makes a ceramic/aluminum rod that is supposed to survive street car stuff but still weight much less than steel rods. Good stuff, but expensive. Call Ed Curtis at FTI (EDC on here).
Oh yeah, if you are gonna spin that high, go to www.drysump.com and start buying.