Wires I need and installing my sub (and installation)
10-26-2005, 08:20 PM
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Wires I need and installing my sub (and installation) I made a thread a while ago or asked in one about wires, but it was a long time ago, and I've been really lazy. My headunit is a Sony F5700. For outputs in the manual it says Audio output terminals (Front/rear), subwoofer output terminal ( mono), and power amplifier contorl terminal. If that means anything whatsoever... what kind of wires do I need? My amp is a boss 2 channel RT345, and my sub is a 10inch. kicker xpl. The sub is a stealth box for rear drivers side beside the t-top and the amp will go behind t-top area. I have no idea on lengths or anything, I was just told by a fellow audio friend to use 8 gauge and that's it. I'm not gonna buy the crap at best buy for $100, but off ebay prob. Either one of these work, or am I gonna need something else? link 1 and link 2
Whats the route the wires need to go? I heard something about the firewall, but I have no idea to get there, put it through, or even what it is really. How do I get the wires to the battery (if I need to for the amp), and how do I get the sub wires to the HU? And what do I plug it in? Ahhhh, haha.
(BTW, the amp is a 2 channel, but I think I'm not gonna bridge it in case later I put another sub in. It should put out enough power I think).
Whats the route the wires need to go? I heard something about the firewall, but I have no idea to get there, put it through, or even what it is really. How do I get the wires to the battery (if I need to for the amp), and how do I get the sub wires to the HU? And what do I plug it in? Ahhhh, haha.
(BTW, the amp is a 2 channel, but I think I'm not gonna bridge it in case later I put another sub in. It should put out enough power I think).
Last edited by contemptor; 10-27-2005 at 10:26 AM.
10-27-2005, 09:39 PM
#3
either of those kits will probably work fine, I think I needed about 20ft of power cable to run it. 8 gauge should probably be fine, as for how to run the wires I'm not sure about the best way to get through the firewall because I ran my power a different way that I dont reccomend, as for running the sound back to the head unit run it up the passengers side behind the plastic panels and plastic kicker panel and once you get it to the glove box you should have no problem pulling it up to the head unit
10-30-2005, 08:24 PM
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One says the speaker wire is 12 Gauge, and one says 16 though? I honestly don't knwo what a difference they make. Would either work? And on the sub, theres a black and red input for a speaker wire... These kits only mention oen speaker wire. Do I need to, or do only one of these slots need to be connected with a wire or what?
10-31-2005, 02:44 AM
#5
Dude I'm sorry but from the sound of your posts it sounds like you really need alot of help. Either from a buddy or from a shop.
- The amp kits you linked are fine for a modest setup, especially for just a sub. Not the best quality but for a small sub setup should be fine. 8 gage power and 12 gauge speaker wire is fine.
- You need to run a remote turn-on lead, fused hot, and the subwoofer RCA output from your head unit to the back. The ground is taken local at the amp to any bare metal.
- Bridge your amp, per the instructions. There is no sense in not bridging it because you'll have to get back into the wires to hook up that 2nd sub anyways. Same amount of work either way, bridge it.
The problem with being really unfamiliar with things is the need to run a power cable. Mistakes here can be costly and/or dangerous, and if you half *** it you have a long term short circuit risk floating around.
Most shops would run a amp-turn on, fused hot from the battery, and a ground wire for you very inexpensively. You should consider this.
- The amp kits you linked are fine for a modest setup, especially for just a sub. Not the best quality but for a small sub setup should be fine. 8 gage power and 12 gauge speaker wire is fine.
- You need to run a remote turn-on lead, fused hot, and the subwoofer RCA output from your head unit to the back. The ground is taken local at the amp to any bare metal.
- Bridge your amp, per the instructions. There is no sense in not bridging it because you'll have to get back into the wires to hook up that 2nd sub anyways. Same amount of work either way, bridge it.
The problem with being really unfamiliar with things is the need to run a power cable. Mistakes here can be costly and/or dangerous, and if you half *** it you have a long term short circuit risk floating around.
Most shops would run a amp-turn on, fused hot from the battery, and a ground wire for you very inexpensively. You should consider this.
