Spec stage 3 Does and Don'ts
10-31-2005, 07:01 PM
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Spec stage 3 Does and Don'ts Well first off I want to thank the following:
Jason and Shane from Thunder Racing
Todd Kay - AMW (TKGN1)
Mike Cannon - Sidewaysta
Blake Williams - Bluesteel
Glen Gerzik - Old Man Spray (OM Spray)
Before I go into details I want to say with my install I found that if you do it right you would not see some of the problems you guys have mentioned. I noticed that after the install I had a little chatter and I do mean a little on the clutch. So you guys understand that is from the clutch grabbing. Not an out of balanced fly wheel. If the fly wheel was the problem you would see it at idle. But this past weekend I installed a new master cylinder and most if not all chatter is gone. This tells me that if you do everything correctly you can have a good clutch install.
I decided to go with a Spec Stage 3 do to the many happy people on this site so I began my search. I found guy on ebay selling the disk, pressure plate and slave for 380. I could not pass up the chance knowing that my clutch was going to need to be replaced in the near future. About a month after getting the clutch I started noticing that if I held the clutch in it would start rolling like the clutch was starting to come out on its own. The problem was that the fluid in the system was not holding it was bleeding back in the system. I then knew that it was time for a clutch install. So I began to call around to find out what was ALL needed to get the job done right. I found that a clutch install would require the following if you want it done right: clutch, fly wheel (or resurfaced) that is balanced with the pressure plate, slave, pilot bearing and in some cases a master cylinder.
The first weekend we installed everything except the master cylinder. All was good but I still noticed a little bleed back on the system and I did have some chatter in 1st and reverse. The next weekend I replaced the master and all if not most of the chatter is gone. I am 100% pleased so far. The pressure is like a stock clutch yet grads very good. The car now shifts like new.
If you guys do these things on a clutch install (any clutch) I think you will be happy. Just putting a clutch in a car that has miles needs new slave and possibly a master cylinder. Thunder Racing suggested that I do the drill mod if I get a new master, but I decided not to since my car has never had a problem and the clutch was very easy to press. That option will have to be something you decide. I hope this thread will answer some questions. If you have any please let me know. All I can say is, do you home work!
Jason and Shane from Thunder Racing
Todd Kay - AMW (TKGN1)
Mike Cannon - Sidewaysta
Blake Williams - Bluesteel
Glen Gerzik - Old Man Spray (OM Spray)
Before I go into details I want to say with my install I found that if you do it right you would not see some of the problems you guys have mentioned. I noticed that after the install I had a little chatter and I do mean a little on the clutch. So you guys understand that is from the clutch grabbing. Not an out of balanced fly wheel. If the fly wheel was the problem you would see it at idle. But this past weekend I installed a new master cylinder and most if not all chatter is gone. This tells me that if you do everything correctly you can have a good clutch install.
I decided to go with a Spec Stage 3 do to the many happy people on this site so I began my search. I found guy on ebay selling the disk, pressure plate and slave for 380. I could not pass up the chance knowing that my clutch was going to need to be replaced in the near future. About a month after getting the clutch I started noticing that if I held the clutch in it would start rolling like the clutch was starting to come out on its own. The problem was that the fluid in the system was not holding it was bleeding back in the system. I then knew that it was time for a clutch install. So I began to call around to find out what was ALL needed to get the job done right. I found that a clutch install would require the following if you want it done right: clutch, fly wheel (or resurfaced) that is balanced with the pressure plate, slave, pilot bearing and in some cases a master cylinder.
The first weekend we installed everything except the master cylinder. All was good but I still noticed a little bleed back on the system and I did have some chatter in 1st and reverse. The next weekend I replaced the master and all if not most of the chatter is gone. I am 100% pleased so far. The pressure is like a stock clutch yet grads very good. The car now shifts like new.
If you guys do these things on a clutch install (any clutch) I think you will be happy. Just putting a clutch in a car that has miles needs new slave and possibly a master cylinder. Thunder Racing suggested that I do the drill mod if I get a new master, but I decided not to since my car has never had a problem and the clutch was very easy to press. That option will have to be something you decide. I hope this thread will answer some questions. If you have any please let me know. All I can say is, do you home work!
