Grinding procedures for 4.10s and Torsen T2 diff
01-14-2006, 08:27 PM
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Grinding procedures for 4.10s and Torsen T2 diff Ok so my rear end in the TA has blown up for the second time, this time the used LT1 posi I got for free to replace the blown Torsen Scattered everywhere destroying all the bearings in the diff, as well as my trusty rusty $50 junkyard S-10 gears wich survived the first blown diff.
I decided to step up to 4.10s feeling a 3.73 wasnt a low enough gear and got a brand shpankin new Torsen T2, im waiting untill monday to order the bearing kit, (no1 open) but any who anyone familiar with 10 bolts knows Torsen + 4.10 or bigger = a paddle that dont fit. Im nearly broke now cant afford the SLP paddle which do I grind, the ring gear, or the paddle, and if I grind the paddle what keeps the axles seated!
I decided to step up to 4.10s feeling a 3.73 wasnt a low enough gear and got a brand shpankin new Torsen T2, im waiting untill monday to order the bearing kit, (no1 open) but any who anyone familiar with 10 bolts knows Torsen + 4.10 or bigger = a paddle that dont fit. Im nearly broke now cant afford the SLP paddle which do I grind, the ring gear, or the paddle, and if I grind the paddle what keeps the axles seated!
01-14-2006, 09:10 PM
#2
You might not have to grind anything at all.
I have an '00 Z with the torsen, I bought 4.10's for it. My paddle was still fine. I don't know which maker of gearsets requires it and which don't - I used motives.
To make the paddle fit you can just grind a bit of the corner of the paddle, where it doesn't quite contact the axles. I don't think it's a hot idea to grind the ring gear itself.
I have an '00 Z with the torsen, I bought 4.10's for it. My paddle was still fine. I don't know which maker of gearsets requires it and which don't - I used motives.
To make the paddle fit you can just grind a bit of the corner of the paddle, where it doesn't quite contact the axles. I don't think it's a hot idea to grind the ring gear itself.
01-15-2006, 12:18 AM
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after searching up and down the internet I decided I would just go for it. The paddle way, My car has already broke the rear twice, although it was the posi bolth times why risk breaking the gears by weakening them with grinding or posibly making them noisy
I took the side of the paddle that hits on the ring gear and removed about .020" on the belt sander, then tried inserting, it got 75% of the way in so I marked where it was stopping up with some white out and at about a 3degree angle ground on the last 1 1/4" inches, walla perfecto shes a bit of a squeeze to get in, and I gotta pry lightly with a flat tip to pull 'er out but this shouldnt affect the axle retention at ALL considering I didnt even grind anywhere near the slots for the axles, and its still putting all the pressure it was before on the side gears, except they have about .010" on each side to wiggle, should work flawlessly, now that that hurdle is over, I got to get a shim kit and the pinion and side bearings!
I took the side of the paddle that hits on the ring gear and removed about .020" on the belt sander, then tried inserting, it got 75% of the way in so I marked where it was stopping up with some white out and at about a 3degree angle ground on the last 1 1/4" inches, walla perfecto shes a bit of a squeeze to get in, and I gotta pry lightly with a flat tip to pull 'er out but this shouldnt affect the axle retention at ALL considering I didnt even grind anywhere near the slots for the axles, and its still putting all the pressure it was before on the side gears, except they have about .010" on each side to wiggle, should work flawlessly, now that that hurdle is over, I got to get a shim kit and the pinion and side bearings!
