Anyone think this is all related?
#5
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Kyle: yup, Tiff's.. Car was sounding like a clunker (really bad exhaust leak) that really sounded like a manifold gasket leak. Well, a gasket change didn't fix it, so we pulled it off today and found the cracks. I touched up the welds (nice having a tig) and its fine for now.
I'm wondering if this manifold wasn't originally warped -- or if it was warped when it was sent back to repair the first crack (cyl 7 primary, where it meets the log). Either way, the stress of clamping down that 1/8" or so gap definitely seems why it cracked on cyls 1 and 7.. I'm seriously considering rebuilding this manifold out of schedule 40 tubing and elbows
I'm wondering if this manifold wasn't originally warped -- or if it was warped when it was sent back to repair the first crack (cyl 7 primary, where it meets the log). Either way, the stress of clamping down that 1/8" or so gap definitely seems why it cracked on cyls 1 and 7.. I'm seriously considering rebuilding this manifold out of schedule 40 tubing and elbows
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#9
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Truck manis are nice, but tough to keep A/C Remember, this is her daily driver in the Texas heat.. We'll see how long this lasts, but I can forsee rebuilding in sched. 10 or 40 being a reality in the somewhat near future.
.. and yes, this is the QMP/SW kit.
.. and yes, this is the QMP/SW kit.
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Although I could live without the AC, I don't think my son could. Besides, it could be pretty miserable in the summer (especially with the Houston humidity). I think I will keep the A/C and eventually get rid of this kit unless something else can be done. I am starting to get really tired of pulling the car apart every couple of months though.
#13
Any exhaust manifold runs much hotter than the head it's bolted to and, therefore, thermally expands much more. The log thermally expands axially as much as .100" more than the cylinder head. Log headers inherently don't have very much flexibility built into them.
If you weld them, they will crack again.
There are 2 things you can try:
1. Cut the flange between each cylinder. This will allow the flanges to slide independent of each other and the cylinder head. You'll need a metallic header gasket (not aluminum) like copper or stainless because the flange will be sliding back and forth across it.
2. Cut up the log and install bellows type expansion joints between each cylinder. The Turbo Regals have this feature in the stock log header.
Mike
If you weld them, they will crack again.
There are 2 things you can try:
1. Cut the flange between each cylinder. This will allow the flanges to slide independent of each other and the cylinder head. You'll need a metallic header gasket (not aluminum) like copper or stainless because the flange will be sliding back and forth across it.
2. Cut up the log and install bellows type expansion joints between each cylinder. The Turbo Regals have this feature in the stock log header.
Mike
#17
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/pict...stockhdrs.html
Here's a pic of the Turbo Buick log with expansion joints.
Like I said, though, I'd cut the flanges first.
Mike
Here's a pic of the Turbo Buick log with expansion joints.
Like I said, though, I'd cut the flanges first.
Mike
#18
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Try creating a bracket to support the turbo too if that hasnt been done already. I am making a kit right now where there is a drives and pas. log, but the they run independently from eachother (not q.m.p. or tti style). The turbo will be supported by a bracket that bolts to the head...