TS6

iTrader: (41)

I've been toying around with the idea of buying a new motor for my car but I can't decide what would be best. One shop says aluminum 427 and another says LS2 402 and another says iron block 408. I will probably spray a small shot (150 or less) on whatever I get. Obviously the iron block is stronger, but I haven't heard too many block failures anyway. I'm looking to run 93 octane exclusively, and making as much power as possible with that octane. I'd like to run 10's on motor. My car weighs about 3700 with me in it now, so the iron block idea scares me because of the additional weight. I have a 4200 stall in my built 4L60E, and I wanna stay with that tranny if possible. I may lighten the car down the road but with my 300 lb *** in it it'll never be really light. I like the LS2 402 but I don't like losing my knock sensors. The 427 seems nice but is more $$$ than the others. I street drive the car about 3000 miles a year and make about 6 track visits per summer. I'm thinking aound 500 rwhp will get me 10's which means any of these motors will probably work. I guess I want what is most reliable and streetable. So many choices.......

LC

I'm no expert.. but since you have not got any replies.. i will try something that jumps on your text..

- You no longer loose Knock Sensors on LS2 based apps, you just change the position.

- Keeping a 4L60E is easy, just have to be built for it.. (cablebandith i think was running 9s on a heavy car with a RockOn one)

- I saw your thread about 9s.. It's kinda my goal too, but i race at 7000DA so i pretty well fucked, or at least i will need more money to do it..

I have thought of a 422.. LS2 stock bore with a Eagle 4.1 Crank, would make an average hit on the pocket...

If 402s are making around 500wrhp on some apps, a 422 behind a 4l60e should do it no problem i think..

so, theoretically.. 500hp + a 250 shot = 700ish HP.. should do 9s..

Just my noob .02

christophermorales

Ever think about running a blower motor? You can make that on pump gas easy. It is also easier on parts and more reliable. If you spray the car with 150 you'll go 200 then 250, then 300, trust me a little pack of jets is hard to resist. 100 pounds is only a tenth in ET, but can really get you in the 60ft department, however 1,000's of people put cars with iron blocks on the bumper. Build the most durable motor you can, 15 cubic inches isn't worth an extra $1000 more crank. Nitrous pistons, rings made for nitrous, 4340 rods n crank, also I hear they run main stud gurdles in the cars now, I'd get one. I also recommend staging nitrous it is easier to run a 2 stage, easier on parts, easier to hook and Also I recommend 2 fuel ststems with any nitrous car, what I did with mine is run a 1 gallon fuel cell up front, seperate regulator, return style, and a seperate fuel pump high volume, and run higher octane, if you stick with the Fuel injection they make high octane unleaded. Personally I ran carburated, ran c12 on motor, ran c16 in the cell for the nitrous. It is a nice added saftey feature (extra octane) I topped my 1 gallon cell off about every 3 passes, I was running a single stage of 250, running a 1.31 60ft.