1BAD98TA

iTrader: (11)

Ok.. its a TCI SF3000.. I installed converter, broke pump, and went to tranny shop.. they ended up just rebuilding the whole thing.. so in other words I never got a chance to drive the car with an unmolested tranny.. I have never had a vehicle with a stall before so I am unsure how they are "supposed" to act.. it takes alot more pedal to get it going which from what I have read is normal.. its kinda of annoying to be honest but I will get used to it.. Today I came to a complete stop, put her down in 1st gear, held the brake pedal and slowly pushed the gas pedal down.. I was trying to see how much RPM's I could brake stall it to.. Well it never broke the tires loose.. at WOT it just sat there reving to about 2.5K so the next time I held the brake and stabbed the throttle to the floor.. same thing.. It just will not do what I call a "powerbreak burnout" .. Also, I have heard of everyone having such HUGE problems with traction after the swap, well im on regular street tires and the car doesnt really seem to have much more ***** when I stab the throttle.. I am going to try and find another LS1 car in the area with a stall to see how their car acts, but I am convinced my car isnt right I just dont know if its the stall causing it, or the fact that Cottmans said they "made adjustments to the valve body to compensate for the TC" I did notice that I dont have the sluggish shifts that everyone talks about, I can feel mine shift, sometimes pretty firmly in fact.. the car is full weight with 2:73 gears, any other info you guys need just ask.. Thanks

speedo

iTrader: (15)

What happens when you let go of the brake when your sitting there at WOT? Does it launch hard or dog out?

How does it go down the road when your rolling and then go WOT?

What did they do when they rebuilt it, as in parts??

So much stuff that could go wrong with whole converter/A4 deal.

My converter takes more gas to get it going in normal driving conditions, but once it gets past the stall it feels real "tight" and cuts loose on the power.

LS1 Sounds

iTrader: (11)

Do you have the traction control off?

1BAD98TA

iTrader: (11)

The car doesnt have traction control so thats not a problem.. I am going to do some driving today and log exactly where the RPM's are and exactly how it acts.. As for the rebuild I cant tell you much.. he said he used a rebuild kit with high energy band, better clutches.. it sounds to me like your basic rebuild.. but he said he "modified the valve body".. then another time he said he "updated the valve body".. hell I dont know, I do know it shifts crisp and firm.. In all honesty the car doesnt feel too much different at WOT, but crusing its totally different.. Ill get you guys some more info and reply again

RevGTO

iTrader: (12)

I got my TCI 3000 after I had already swapped out my 2.73's to 3.42's. So I noticed a little more looseness with the TC, but nothing drastic. A little bit more pedal to get going. But with 2.73's, it's going to take a little more pedal still, and so it's going to feel considerably looser. You should be able to broil your tires, though. Stock with the 2.73's, I could barely break 'em loose brake stalling it. Now with the gears and TC, it will incinerate them at light to moderate throttle. If you don't get used to it after awhile, and are still unhappy with the performance, I'd suggest taking the plunge and getting gears. Then you'll be smilin'.

BigBlockChev572

iTrader: (7)

Do you have any codes being thrown? A stuck shift solenoid can cause the vehicle to be very sluggish off the line. I've had my pump rebuilt,the stall acts just the same before pump was rebuilt.

1BAD98TA

iTrader: (11)

I ran the codes with a handheld reader.. only codes I got were the 4 codes from deleting my converters.. I am also going to take the car to a local tuner and the only thing I am going to have him change is to delete the TQ managment, that way I can rule it out as a possible problem.. ok.. now on to my experiences driving the car.. as for "loosness" I cant say its too loose or not because ive never had a stall, but yes its LOOSE.. I can brake stall the car at full throttle to 2500 rpm's.. never break the tires loose until I let off the brake and then will slowly start turning them over until the tach starts climbing and then it has no problem melting them off.. basically it acts ALOT like it did before the stall but has the extra slipping while driving in town.. the lock up works good though.. if you watch these videos of me doing burnouts it will show how the car acted before the stall.. now after the stall the only difference is that the tires wont break loose at all until I let off the brake.. and the burnout starts just like in the video, slowly turning at first, then eventually melting them off.. THIS SUCKS..
When watching the video you can see how the tires start slowly spinning and work up to spinning fast.. make sense?? well it does the same thing after the stall when I stab the throttle from a dig..
The burnout Video