Burned plug wires w/SLP LT1 Ceramic Headers
03-22-2006, 07:25 AM
#1
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Burned plug wires w/SLP LT1 Ceramic Headers Hi,
The car:
1995 TA with SLP ceramic coated headers.
I constantly get a burned number five cylinder wire. Sometimes it is the boot and other times just in back of the boot.
I've tried the white insulating booties over the plug wire but no luck. The MSD wires I initially bought new for the project were thicker and consequently it burned up at that location because it was closer to the header.
I'm back to replacing the wire about every oil change or 3,000 miles, whichever comes first.
It's gotten to the point I automatically go to AZ to get oil and filter and then to the GM parts desk to get a wire.
I try to maximize the small amount of space between the wire and the plug wire.
I even went with the Accel Shorty plugs, but again the same.
There seems to be such a close fit at this location.
Does anyone have a real fix for this setup? Are any brand of wires smaller at the boot so as to allow for greater clearance?
Steve
The car:
1995 TA with SLP ceramic coated headers.
I constantly get a burned number five cylinder wire. Sometimes it is the boot and other times just in back of the boot.
I've tried the white insulating booties over the plug wire but no luck. The MSD wires I initially bought new for the project were thicker and consequently it burned up at that location because it was closer to the header.
I'm back to replacing the wire about every oil change or 3,000 miles, whichever comes first.
It's gotten to the point I automatically go to AZ to get oil and filter and then to the GM parts desk to get a wire.I try to maximize the small amount of space between the wire and the plug wire.
I even went with the Accel Shorty plugs, but again the same.
There seems to be such a close fit at this location.
Does anyone have a real fix for this setup? Are any brand of wires smaller at the boot so as to allow for greater clearance?
Steve
03-22-2006, 08:29 AM
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I ran an AutoLite 104 in the #5 spot. It's .2" shorter than an NGK plug. Same length as the Accel shorties, but much less expensive. 
I think the 104 is in the same heat range as the TR6. I don't remember which range is the same 'heat' as stock (103 or 105). I'll be researching that soon, though.
I run a Taylor wire, with a right angle hitting the plug. I sneak it up from below, tied back towards the rear of the motor. Basically, the wire passes well below #5, turns around and comes back up to it.
I've burned through a DEI Protect-a-boot on it before I redid the routing, so I feel your pain.
I don't currently have an issue because I have a POS iron headed motor in the car, and those aren't angle plugs - they come straight out of the heads.
I think the 104 is in the same heat range as the TR6. I don't remember which range is the same 'heat' as stock (103 or 105). I'll be researching that soon, though.I run a Taylor wire, with a right angle hitting the plug. I sneak it up from below, tied back towards the rear of the motor. Basically, the wire passes well below #5, turns around and comes back up to it.
I've burned through a DEI Protect-a-boot on it before I redid the routing, so I feel your pain.
I don't currently have an issue because I have a POS iron headed motor in the car, and those aren't angle plugs - they come straight out of the heads.
03-22-2006, 08:44 PM
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I hope you can post that pic, I've got the SLP headers on mine and would love to see the best way to route them. They almost look like the over the top wires would be better. I haven't had mine on for all that many miles, but would like to avoid the burnt wire.
