Thinking about selling/parting out motor/twin-turbo kit
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Thinking about selling/parting out motor/twin-turbo kit
I've thought about it a lot lately and I'm really not having fun with the car. I'm not even sure that when I get it running up to potential, if it will be even what I wanted so I'm seriously considering just getting rid of it all and just throwing in a little pump gas n/a motor to cruise around with and have fun without worrying about having some kinda problem down the line.
I graduate soon and won't be able to take the car anyways, so I figure I'm better off selling everything while it's in perfect working order, rather than blow it up and have a bunch of worthless junk.
Here's what I'm thinking of getting rid of:
Harlan's old twin t66 turbo kit
I'm lazy so I just copied/pasted what Harlan wrote when he was selling it.
Headers, all 321 tubing. All 8 cylinders fitted w/ EGT taps, k-type thermocouples installed. 321 double slip merge collectors to T4 turbine flange. Collectors fitted w/ 1/8" NPT bungs for pressure or temp measurement.
Downpipes, 304 stainless. 3" at the turbine outlet, expand to 3.5". Each side fitted w/ one O2 bung.
Turbos, turbonetics T66's. On center, .69 A/R turbine housings. P-trim compressor wheels. Polished comp housings. Ball bearing CHRA's, w/ water cooling.
Intercoolers, 2 spearco water to air coolers, 2-231 is the part number.
2 Tial BOV's mounted on the coolers, red in color.
2 Tial 46mm Wastegates, have .8 BAR springs, red in color.
all silicone couplers, t-bolt clamps, inlet piping to the TB is included.
The valve covers needed to fit the headers are also included.
Front cover w/ turbo drain fittings welded in is included.
I can also include a variety of other parts that someone that bought the kit might be interested in such as the solid roller cam, valvetrain, heads, converter, motor, etc. and can make a good deal for everything if someone just wanted it all.
Built 347 short/long block
-Stock crank with some work by Livernois motorsports.
-Custom diamond pistons with Dart coating on sides and top.
-Eagle 4340 rods with L19 bolts (stronger than the ARP 2000's)
-8.75:1 with my current heads which are 56cc chambers IIRC
-Motor was built by Chuck at Best Machine Racing Engines (www.bestmachineracing.com)
-Chuck is extremely meticulous and has built some of the fastest and most reliable motors in both Michigan and nationwide including many LS1's
Heads could come with the motor if the person wanted. They are stock 241 castings with good valves and currently solid roller springs. I will get them flowed but I was told they flowed very well after getting re-worked by Livernois motorsports (well over 300 cfm on the intake).
I would also sell my complete fuel system.
-weldon 2025 pump
-weldon 2040 boost referenced regulator
-weldon 10u and 40u filters
-Speed inc. fuel rails
-RC Eng. 96 lb injectors
-tons of -8, -10, and -6 line along with y blocks, fittings, etc for a nice clean install that would work for anyone with a sumped tank like mine was.
Other stuff I'd be looking to get rid of...
-Neal chance 'pro mod' converter setup for my combo ($1500 new)
-BS3 DAI (internal data-logging) box with wiring harness and necessary sensors (map, tps, iat, etc)
-intercooler water tank along with pump, lines, filters, etc.
I'm not 100% on this but just seeing if you guys think it'd be worth selling it as a whole...or parting everything out piece by piece?
I don't really need the money to do my next project, so I can afford to get closer to what it's worth rather than just selling it all off and getting killed by low-balling.
I graduate soon and won't be able to take the car anyways, so I figure I'm better off selling everything while it's in perfect working order, rather than blow it up and have a bunch of worthless junk.
Here's what I'm thinking of getting rid of:
Harlan's old twin t66 turbo kit
I'm lazy so I just copied/pasted what Harlan wrote when he was selling it.
Headers, all 321 tubing. All 8 cylinders fitted w/ EGT taps, k-type thermocouples installed. 321 double slip merge collectors to T4 turbine flange. Collectors fitted w/ 1/8" NPT bungs for pressure or temp measurement.
Downpipes, 304 stainless. 3" at the turbine outlet, expand to 3.5". Each side fitted w/ one O2 bung.
Turbos, turbonetics T66's. On center, .69 A/R turbine housings. P-trim compressor wheels. Polished comp housings. Ball bearing CHRA's, w/ water cooling.
Intercoolers, 2 spearco water to air coolers, 2-231 is the part number.
2 Tial BOV's mounted on the coolers, red in color.
2 Tial 46mm Wastegates, have .8 BAR springs, red in color.
all silicone couplers, t-bolt clamps, inlet piping to the TB is included.
The valve covers needed to fit the headers are also included.
Front cover w/ turbo drain fittings welded in is included.
I can also include a variety of other parts that someone that bought the kit might be interested in such as the solid roller cam, valvetrain, heads, converter, motor, etc. and can make a good deal for everything if someone just wanted it all.
Built 347 short/long block
-Stock crank with some work by Livernois motorsports.
-Custom diamond pistons with Dart coating on sides and top.
-Eagle 4340 rods with L19 bolts (stronger than the ARP 2000's)
-8.75:1 with my current heads which are 56cc chambers IIRC
-Motor was built by Chuck at Best Machine Racing Engines (www.bestmachineracing.com)
-Chuck is extremely meticulous and has built some of the fastest and most reliable motors in both Michigan and nationwide including many LS1's
Heads could come with the motor if the person wanted. They are stock 241 castings with good valves and currently solid roller springs. I will get them flowed but I was told they flowed very well after getting re-worked by Livernois motorsports (well over 300 cfm on the intake).
I would also sell my complete fuel system.
-weldon 2025 pump
-weldon 2040 boost referenced regulator
-weldon 10u and 40u filters
-Speed inc. fuel rails
-RC Eng. 96 lb injectors
-tons of -8, -10, and -6 line along with y blocks, fittings, etc for a nice clean install that would work for anyone with a sumped tank like mine was.
Other stuff I'd be looking to get rid of...
-Neal chance 'pro mod' converter setup for my combo ($1500 new)
-BS3 DAI (internal data-logging) box with wiring harness and necessary sensors (map, tps, iat, etc)
-intercooler water tank along with pump, lines, filters, etc.
I'm not 100% on this but just seeing if you guys think it'd be worth selling it as a whole...or parting everything out piece by piece?
I don't really need the money to do my next project, so I can afford to get closer to what it's worth rather than just selling it all off and getting killed by low-balling.
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How much are you wanting for the turbo setup. also is that the setup that he raced me on in the first thunder racing race. I think his best that day was 10.0. at 157. that is a very nice kit
#4
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Originally Posted by 1fstTA
How much are you wanting for the turbo setup. also is that the setup that he raced me on in the first thunder racing race. I think his best that day was 10.0. at 157. that is a very nice kit
I'd be looking for around $6500 firm. I paid $7500 and haven't even put a full pass and only a handful of dyno runs. Enough to know the stuff works though.
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Originally Posted by LTLHOMER
I've thought about it a lot lately and I'm really not having fun with the car. I'm not even sure that when I get it running up to potential, if it will be even what I wanted so I'm seriously considering just getting rid of it all and just throwing in a little pump gas n/a motor to cruise around with and have fun without worrying about having some kinda problem down the line.
I graduate soon and won't be able to take the car anyways, so I figure I'm better off selling everything while it's in perfect working order, rather than blow it up and have a bunch of worthless junk.
Here's what I'm thinking of getting rid of:
Harlan's old twin t66 turbo kit
I'm lazy so I just copied/pasted what Harlan wrote when he was selling it.
Headers, all 321 tubing. All 8 cylinders fitted w/ EGT taps, k-type thermocouples installed. 321 double slip merge collectors to T4 turbine flange. Collectors fitted w/ 1/8" NPT bungs for pressure or temp measurement.
Downpipes, 304 stainless. 3" at the turbine outlet, expand to 3.5". Each side fitted w/ one O2 bung.
Turbos, turbonetics T66's. On center, .69 A/R turbine housings. P-trim compressor wheels. Polished comp housings. Ball bearing CHRA's, w/ water cooling.
Intercoolers, 2 spearco water to air coolers, 2-231 is the part number.
2 Tial BOV's mounted on the coolers, red in color.
2 Tial 46mm Wastegates, have .8 BAR springs, red in color.
all silicone couplers, t-bolt clamps, inlet piping to the TB is included.
The valve covers needed to fit the headers are also included.
Front cover w/ turbo drain fittings welded in is included.
I can also include a variety of other parts that someone that bought the kit might be interested in such as the solid roller cam, valvetrain, heads, converter, motor, etc. and can make a good deal for everything if someone just wanted it all.
Built 347 short/long block
-Stock crank with some work by Livernois motorsports.
-Custom diamond pistons with Dart coating on sides and top.
-Eagle 4340 rods with L19 bolts (stronger than the ARP 2000's)
-8.75:1 with my current heads which are 56cc chambers IIRC
-Motor was built by Chuck at Best Machine Racing Engines (www.bestmachineracing.com)
-Chuck is extremely meticulous and has built some of the fastest and most reliable motors in both Michigan and nationwide including many LS1's
Heads could come with the motor if the person wanted. They are stock 241 castings with good valves and currently solid roller springs. I will get them flowed but I was told they flowed very well after getting re-worked by Livernois motorsports (well over 300 cfm on the intake).
I would also sell my complete fuel system.
-weldon 2025 pump
-weldon 2040 boost referenced regulator
-weldon 10u and 40u filters
-Speed inc. fuel rails
-RC Eng. 96 lb injectors
-tons of -8, -10, and -6 line along with y blocks, fittings, etc for a nice clean install that would work for anyone with a sumped tank like mine was.
Other stuff I'd be looking to get rid of...
-Neal chance 'pro mod' converter setup for my combo ($1500 new)
-BS3 DAI (internal data-logging) box with wiring harness and necessary sensors (map, tps, iat, etc)
-intercooler water tank along with pump, lines, filters, etc.
I'm not 100% on this but just seeing if you guys think it'd be worth selling it as a whole...or parting everything out piece by piece?
I don't really need the money to do my next project, so I can afford to get closer to what it's worth rather than just selling it all off and getting killed by low-balling.
I graduate soon and won't be able to take the car anyways, so I figure I'm better off selling everything while it's in perfect working order, rather than blow it up and have a bunch of worthless junk.
Here's what I'm thinking of getting rid of:
Harlan's old twin t66 turbo kit
I'm lazy so I just copied/pasted what Harlan wrote when he was selling it.
Headers, all 321 tubing. All 8 cylinders fitted w/ EGT taps, k-type thermocouples installed. 321 double slip merge collectors to T4 turbine flange. Collectors fitted w/ 1/8" NPT bungs for pressure or temp measurement.
Downpipes, 304 stainless. 3" at the turbine outlet, expand to 3.5". Each side fitted w/ one O2 bung.
Turbos, turbonetics T66's. On center, .69 A/R turbine housings. P-trim compressor wheels. Polished comp housings. Ball bearing CHRA's, w/ water cooling.
Intercoolers, 2 spearco water to air coolers, 2-231 is the part number.
2 Tial BOV's mounted on the coolers, red in color.
2 Tial 46mm Wastegates, have .8 BAR springs, red in color.
all silicone couplers, t-bolt clamps, inlet piping to the TB is included.
The valve covers needed to fit the headers are also included.
Front cover w/ turbo drain fittings welded in is included.
I can also include a variety of other parts that someone that bought the kit might be interested in such as the solid roller cam, valvetrain, heads, converter, motor, etc. and can make a good deal for everything if someone just wanted it all.
Built 347 short/long block
-Stock crank with some work by Livernois motorsports.
-Custom diamond pistons with Dart coating on sides and top.
-Eagle 4340 rods with L19 bolts (stronger than the ARP 2000's)
-8.75:1 with my current heads which are 56cc chambers IIRC
-Motor was built by Chuck at Best Machine Racing Engines (www.bestmachineracing.com)
-Chuck is extremely meticulous and has built some of the fastest and most reliable motors in both Michigan and nationwide including many LS1's
Heads could come with the motor if the person wanted. They are stock 241 castings with good valves and currently solid roller springs. I will get them flowed but I was told they flowed very well after getting re-worked by Livernois motorsports (well over 300 cfm on the intake).
I would also sell my complete fuel system.
-weldon 2025 pump
-weldon 2040 boost referenced regulator
-weldon 10u and 40u filters
-Speed inc. fuel rails
-RC Eng. 96 lb injectors
-tons of -8, -10, and -6 line along with y blocks, fittings, etc for a nice clean install that would work for anyone with a sumped tank like mine was.
Other stuff I'd be looking to get rid of...
-Neal chance 'pro mod' converter setup for my combo ($1500 new)
-BS3 DAI (internal data-logging) box with wiring harness and necessary sensors (map, tps, iat, etc)
-intercooler water tank along with pump, lines, filters, etc.
I'm not 100% on this but just seeing if you guys think it'd be worth selling it as a whole...or parting everything out piece by piece?
I don't really need the money to do my next project, so I can afford to get closer to what it's worth rather than just selling it all off and getting killed by low-balling.
any pics of the headers and kit?
#6
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http://johnquick302.com/files/4/Blue%20z/MVC-016S.JPG
http://johnquick302.com/files/4/Blue%20z/IMGA0193.JPG
http://johnquick302.com/files/4/Blue%20z/IMGA0267.JPG
http://johnquick302.com/files/4/Blue%20z/IMGA0304.JPG
If you need any more detailed pics, let me know I have tons.
http://johnquick302.com/files/4/Blue%20z/IMGA0193.JPG
http://johnquick302.com/files/4/Blue%20z/IMGA0267.JPG
http://johnquick302.com/files/4/Blue%20z/IMGA0304.JPG
If you need any more detailed pics, let me know I have tons.
#7
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Originally Posted by LTLHOMER
http://johnquick302.com/files/4/Blue%20z/MVC-016S.JPG
http://johnquick302.com/files/4/Blue%20z/IMGA0193.JPG
http://johnquick302.com/files/4/Blue%20z/IMGA0267.JPG
http://johnquick302.com/files/4/Blue%20z/IMGA0304.JPG
If you need any more detailed pics, let me know I have tons.
http://johnquick302.com/files/4/Blue%20z/IMGA0193.JPG
http://johnquick302.com/files/4/Blue%20z/IMGA0267.JPG
http://johnquick302.com/files/4/Blue%20z/IMGA0304.JPG
If you need any more detailed pics, let me know I have tons.
sorry i thought it was for an lt1. I would be interested in the bs3 if you get rid of it.
thanks
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#9
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a tuning bug is a real stupid reason to give up. you know it has rediculous pontential, just see it through...
if you cant get the hang of the thing then why dont you take it to stenod and have the man look at it for himself.. bounce from there over to wheel2wheel or bs3's place etc. and pay them to figure it out.. the expense will be minor compared to what you have put into the car, and it will be done and overwith, and fast as a mother.
or ill take the hot parts
i'll add that ive been through 4 turbo kits, 2 rears, maybe 6 transmission builds and probably damn near a dozen engine builds, 3 tuning systems, 5 clutches, i dunno how many back tires and then a friggen camaro fell on me. ..and im still here man.. dig in your heels; its not magic, if you can't do it, no shame just take it to the people who can.
if you cant get the hang of the thing then why dont you take it to stenod and have the man look at it for himself.. bounce from there over to wheel2wheel or bs3's place etc. and pay them to figure it out.. the expense will be minor compared to what you have put into the car, and it will be done and overwith, and fast as a mother.
or ill take the hot parts
i'll add that ive been through 4 turbo kits, 2 rears, maybe 6 transmission builds and probably damn near a dozen engine builds, 3 tuning systems, 5 clutches, i dunno how many back tires and then a friggen camaro fell on me. ..and im still here man.. dig in your heels; its not magic, if you can't do it, no shame just take it to the people who can.
#12
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Originally Posted by MIGHTYMOUSE
a tuning bug is a real stupid reason to give up. you know it has rediculous pontential, just see it through...
if you cant get the hang of the thing then why dont you take it to stenod and have the man look at it for himself.. bounce from there over to wheel2wheel or bs3's place etc. and pay them to figure it out.. the expense will be minor compared to what you have put into the car, and it will be done and overwith, and fast as a mother.
if you cant get the hang of the thing then why dont you take it to stenod and have the man look at it for himself.. bounce from there over to wheel2wheel or bs3's place etc. and pay them to figure it out.. the expense will be minor compared to what you have put into the car, and it will be done and overwith, and fast as a mother.
I wouldn't hesitate to take it somewhere, if I was sure that the problem would be resolved. I just hate spending a ton of money on 'diagnosing' the problem and then getting it back at the same point I was when I brought the car there...I went through that the last couple weekends. Maybe my car is like a liver transplant patient that is just rejecting the turbo ls1 and will never work until it's given what it wants???
#14
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Originally Posted by MIGHTYMOUSE
if you are taking the car to places that are taking money from you for not doing anything constructive then you need to take your business elsewhere.
Just a big circle of frustration...plus I'm in the midst of a bunch of school projects, finals (graduating soon), got my own business, regular work, etc...the car used to be a fun relief from all those things and lately it's just becoming another thing to worry about. I just want to figure it out and move on ya know...
#15
probably no consolation but....
once I figured out why mine wouldnt rev past 6K ,
I turned it to 7K and realized its just too much for street driving
so I have set my rev limiter back to 6500.
its nowhere near the engines potential there, but still more than enough
to SMOKE 99% of the cars in my area(not that I reccomend such behaviour)
and certainly enough to have fun with.
so...until I go to the drag strip I'll just put around and still smash it when the
urge strikes me.
I say just enjoy the 6500 rpms you do have and tackle the problem when
you have more patience
once I figured out why mine wouldnt rev past 6K ,
I turned it to 7K and realized its just too much for street driving
so I have set my rev limiter back to 6500.
its nowhere near the engines potential there, but still more than enough
to SMOKE 99% of the cars in my area(not that I reccomend such behaviour)
and certainly enough to have fun with.
so...until I go to the drag strip I'll just put around and still smash it when the
urge strikes me.
I say just enjoy the 6500 rpms you do have and tackle the problem when
you have more patience
#16
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Originally Posted by Rusted40
probably no consolation but....
once I figured out why mine wouldnt rev past 6K ,
I turned it to 7K and realized its just too much for street driving
so I have set my rev limiter back to 6500.
its nowhere near the engines potential there, but still more than enough
to SMOKE 99% of the cars in my area(not that I reccomend such behaviour)
and certainly enough to have fun with.
so...until I go to the drag strip I'll just put around and still smash it when the
urge strikes me.
I say just enjoy the 6500 rpms you do have and tackle the problem when
you have more patience
once I figured out why mine wouldnt rev past 6K ,
I turned it to 7K and realized its just too much for street driving
so I have set my rev limiter back to 6500.
its nowhere near the engines potential there, but still more than enough
to SMOKE 99% of the cars in my area(not that I reccomend such behaviour)
and certainly enough to have fun with.
so...until I go to the drag strip I'll just put around and still smash it when the
urge strikes me.
I say just enjoy the 6500 rpms you do have and tackle the problem when
you have more patience
It made like 750 on w2w's MD at just under 7000 and only 650 at 6000...
That and the cam is meant to make power pretty much starting at 6500.
#17
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do you have a link to your problems page? I would like to read about it and maybe offer some help if I can.. being a tubro guy myself and having to build from scratch a system to fit a C4 corvette.. i know what it is like to not have any guiselines to follow.. even my dash configuration and the after market engine management system didn't wanna get along and that took alot of time to peg.. seems like its never ending sometimes.. but ya get into slumps.. I went a few months without looking at the car... then another 2 months making excellent progress.. in any event, I would like to learn more baout what is plagueing your setup..
thanks!
Chris
thanks!
Chris
#18
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Ask and ye shall receive...and thanks a ton man I always appreciate people spending some time to help out.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/499230-twin-turbo-ls1-problems-need-help-bs3-logs-inside.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/499230-twin-turbo-ls1-problems-need-help-bs3-logs-inside.html
#19
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Being in the auto repair business I would like to say this. People always want a price up front when a drivebiltiy problem is being addressed. Obviously how can the shop know how much time or what parts will be needed before they have even looked at the car. I would go to a shop that you pretty much know for a fact can fix it (W2W, Stenod, SpeedInc. come to mind). True they won't be able to tell you much before they look at it (or give an estimate) but in the end I think you'll probably be happy because they will solve the problem. Also if any part is in question they may have to replace it. It's just part of the diagnostic process (very dificult to work around a suspect part). In the end I'll bet it doesn't cost you that much.
Originally Posted by LTLHOMER
The thing is that no one really has a clue what it's doing...and I hate just throwing new parts at it only to have the problem persist. It almost gives ya hope everytime you change something only to have it do the same thing, only I then have a lighter wallet compared to the previous time.
I wouldn't hesitate to take it somewhere, if I was sure that the problem would be resolved. I just hate spending a ton of money on 'diagnosing' the problem and then getting it back at the same point I was when I brought the car there...I went through that the last couple weekends. Maybe my car is like a liver transplant patient that is just rejecting the turbo ls1 and will never work until it's given what it wants???
I wouldn't hesitate to take it somewhere, if I was sure that the problem would be resolved. I just hate spending a ton of money on 'diagnosing' the problem and then getting it back at the same point I was when I brought the car there...I went through that the last couple weekends. Maybe my car is like a liver transplant patient that is just rejecting the turbo ls1 and will never work until it's given what it wants???
Last edited by 2001WS6Vert; 05-03-2006 at 06:28 AM.