Snootch

iTrader: (3)

I just performed the "Free" Intake Air Temp sensor (IAT) mod. This mod is usually performed using a 4700 Ohm Resistor, fooling the computer into advancing timing a few degrees because it "saw" 57 degrees F. I saw on www.installuniversity.com they reviewed the SLP IAT timing tricker, and discovered the resistance of that unit was 8120 Ohms fooling the comp into seeing 36 degrees F. I then performed the mod using a variable resistor tuned to 8120 Ohms, and the car seems to perform okay, but it's hard to tell any performance diffrence because when I did this mod, I also installed my new airbox and SLP MAF. I don't have auto tap or LS1 Edit to look at the advance/retard numbers. Has anyone had bad/good experiences with this mod? the writeup on my car is on my site in sig. Check it out and tell me what you think!

hondakiller

iTrader: (3)

back to back passes about 15 minutes apart, nearly identical 60fts and e.t.'s i picked up half a mph from it. a full tune with a maft or ls1edit would be better but if you dont have access to that or youre a budget racer its a good mod. half a mph is about 5hp. 5hp for a buck cant beat it.

Colonel

Pretty simple really. IF you need more timing advance and your IAT is causing it to drop, then this can be an effective mod. But, if your timing advance is already in the ballpark (~28-29 or so by 6000 RPM) then this mod isn't going to do much for you.

I like it for consistancy. I don't have to worry about my timing fluctuating due to IAT sensor readings.

WILWAXU

iTrader: (6)

Never go to the track without one (4.7k ohm, 1/2 watt resistor) <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

WILWAXU

iTrader: (6)

BTW:

Dyno of my car with 500 miles on the OD:

Stock
282.9/305.7 SAE, 291.4/314.8 actual

added Timing Tricker (!TT) & Remove Air Filter
292.4/314.6 SAE, 301.2/324.0 actual

<small>[ February 04, 2003, 06:21 PM: Message edited by: WILWAXU ]</small>

SuperSound99SS

i recently ran my car on the dyno with and w/p the !IAT...pass with the !IAT= 293.1 rwhp pass w/p !IAT=299.3 rwhp

i think alot of it has to do w/ my car is basically already running full timing...i think around 30 degrees so it wasn't helping me at all...might be a different story on a hot day

Jabroni

Back to back dyno runs...lost 5RWHP. You call it. For a consistency standpoint, ok, but for much else forget it.

roadrunner-r

wilwaxu what do you mean actual 302?? I thought SAE was the best way to dyno <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

unit213

I tried it at the track a few times. It didn't help a bit.

WILWAXU

iTrader: (6)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by roadrunner-r:
<strong> wilwaxu what do you mean actual 302?? I thought SAE was the best way to dyno <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Actual, as in what the car actually pulled without a correction factor (such as SAE)...

roadrunner-r

so if i dynoed 328.6 SAE,I should be 337 not corrected?

WILWAXU

iTrader: (6)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by roadrunner-r:
<strong> so if i dynoed 328.6 SAE,I should be 337 not corrected? </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">SAE is a correction factor. It takes weather conditions into account and "balances" the numbers out against a norm.

So, on the day that I was on the dyno the weather was better than the norm, so my car made more HP. SAE correction lowered my HP numbers. If it would have been a poor weather day, it may have corrected up.

It's a way to compare dyno runs made on different days / different conditions.