csmc711

iTrader: (4)

Okay, I know they will not be holding a 100% seal, but, I was thinking of just throwing in a cheap set of rings and riding her out. I am NOT interested in keeping the car, but, I am this far down on the gasket swap and thinking.. should I thrown in a set of rings? Engine does have a few miles on her.

Pics here http://mysite.verizon.net/vzeu34tq/

First one is cylinder 1 and then 3 on drivers side (if I got the bank/#'s correct, lol.).

SLED28

iTrader: (7)

You have to hone the block before you put rings in, should be less then a $100 for a de-glaze

csmc711

iTrader: (4)

I was about to post back up that the engine will NEVER come out (if anything its gonna be slapped together with new head gaskets if concensious is a no go), and, I also remember reading something the chevy hi performance book put out by chevrolet that said not do hone when putting in a new ring set on a used bore. Again, I dont think they were faced with a nasty bore like mine either. Now, I dont know if they were talking about what to do on thier older Gen I blocks and the metal sleeve on the LS1 is differant than the Gen I blocks, and, since I will wait till hell freezes over before pulling the block, that means "I" would have to hone it with a honing stone on a drill, not something I would trust myself doing, although, not that big of a deal, I just dont know if I would get the cross hatch perfect like it should be.

This thing just needs to be dependable for another 30k miles so I can sell it guitlessly to someone else. I do not want to dump 10k and get 5k back, but, I dont want to screw someone like I got screwed.

PREDATOR-Z

Either fix it and bump the price for cost of parts and labor or sell as is.
you could get a replacement at LPE (Lingenfelter) with block exchange $ 2098.
most shops would do a shortblock for $2700, maybe less if they reuse pistons etc.. and are able to hone your block.

csmc711

iTrader: (4)

If the engine was still good, well, I guess it is fine for the most part, I could see getting 5k for it after I stick in the new headliner, but who would buy a banged up beat up interior semi destroyed LS1 for 7500+?? I knew SOME things were wrong with it, but, now this hidden crap.

P.S. It has a salvaged title (from being stolen) and I am sure that will help resale

SLED28

iTrader: (7)

I have a stock 98 f-body motor complete here for $1500 if you need it? It has 20k miles on it.

csmc711

iTrader: (4)

thanks bro, will definitly keep that in mind.

SLED28

iTrader: (7)

See you could ball-hone it in the car, but you'll never clean the block properly and it will have problems ...

csmc711

iTrader: (4)

Mmm, if I am reading you correctly, what I useually do is stuff rags in the bottom of the bore (I pack them tight so they press up against the lower edge of the sleeve and form a seal), then, when done honing, spary down with some cleaner. Most of the shavings drop on the towel stuffed into the cylinder. Then I just wait a few seconds, pull the towels up and keep wiping the cylnders with a wet towel until they are squeaky clean.

From what I am reading as of now, all ring sets are need to be cut to fit, unlike the old ring/block set that were/was for the most part pre gapped for that particuler size cylinder. Now, again, getting into a lot more work. I guess time wise I could deal with, but, then I would have to buy the tool, check gap at the car, walk to the shed, grind, come back and recheck........ eeeeeesh.

SLED28

iTrader: (7)

you can get non-file fit rings....
You can brake clean all you want, but the liquid/grit from honing gets into the lifter area which are oil galleries, cap area, etc... You'll never get the whole thing clean, not just the cylinders will get dirty...

csmc711

iTrader: (4)

Ahhh, I see what your saying, so, duct tape a towel to the top of the head/block mating surface? Hell, use plastic for that matter, tighter seal.

Really? Who makes them????