7.400 pushrods used, when 7.350 where needed??
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Staging Lane
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7.400 pushrods used, when 7.350 where needed??
Here is my situation.... I got a head/cam package with all the extras (with 7.400 pushrods) and I didnt trust myself enough to instal it. So I had a local shop with a good reputation do it. The instal went good but once the car heated up I started to hear tapping. I took it back and the guy at the shop told me it was my lifters. He said it was because of the high RPMs of the cam and it was a freak thing since I have the small cheatr cam. So he tore the engine apart and swapped out the lifters. He also told me that the 7.400 pushrods where too long and he changed to 7.350.
Before the original instal I asked him if 7.400 pushrods where good and he said he thinks so but will check it during the instal to make sure. I dont think he ever did check it. Would having 7.400 pushrods be the reason my lifters went bad?
Also... once I got the car back after the instal of the new lifters I drove it home and had no oil pressure. The car sounded like a dissel and I knew something was wrong. What could he have done to cause me to have no oil pressure? Maybe pieces of the lifters got stuck in the oil pump?
I am just trying to find out if these "freak accidents" where the result of this guy not checking if my pushrod length was good.
Thanks for any info.
Logan
Before the original instal I asked him if 7.400 pushrods where good and he said he thinks so but will check it during the instal to make sure. I dont think he ever did check it. Would having 7.400 pushrods be the reason my lifters went bad?
Also... once I got the car back after the instal of the new lifters I drove it home and had no oil pressure. The car sounded like a dissel and I knew something was wrong. What could he have done to cause me to have no oil pressure? Maybe pieces of the lifters got stuck in the oil pump?
I am just trying to find out if these "freak accidents" where the result of this guy not checking if my pushrod length was good.
Thanks for any info.
Logan
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I highly doubt that a piece of lifter clogged your oil pump.. If the kit came with 7.4 pushrods then thats what the kit was designed to have. LS1s motors tick naturally, and it was probably ticking abnormally cause of oil not being present. Sounds to me you got a mechanic with manure for brains, but thats not your fault it happens to people everyday. My motor has a Torquer cam in it and it ticks, and torques my tranny making all kinds of weird noises. Hope everything gets situated. Good Luck Logan.
Travis
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Originally Posted by bandit77383
It wasnt a head/cam kit. I meant I had everything needed. I bought the pushrods seperate from everything else.
Any suggestions on what the no oil pressure could be?
Any suggestions on what the no oil pressure could be?
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About to swap the sending unit out. The wierd thing is that the car was driving perfectly and then after about 5 min of driving it turned to crap and the oil pressure dropped. Is this sending unit control the oil pressure or does it just recieve information for the gauge?
#6
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No, the sending unit does not control the oil pressure, it is controled by the releif valve. It could be the oil pumps relief value getting stuck open or a bad spring in the valve.
After reading many threads on Oil pressure Problems as your, and after doing a swap with a 99 LS1 that was sitting around for almost a year.. and then having no pressure when I finally got it start..(boy was I bummed). I have come to the option (it is mine only so far as far as I know) that this Gel-Rotor design pump has many problem and GM should do something about it.
I replaced it with a stock LS6 one and all was fine.. it seem that the only solution are either to replace a bad O-Ring or replacing the pump ! as many have done to resolve there probelms.
I have not seen any threads finding the root cause of the Pump being bad... and I wish someone with the Technical back ground and equipement would research this.
After reading many threads on Oil pressure Problems as your, and after doing a swap with a 99 LS1 that was sitting around for almost a year.. and then having no pressure when I finally got it start..(boy was I bummed). I have come to the option (it is mine only so far as far as I know) that this Gel-Rotor design pump has many problem and GM should do something about it.
I replaced it with a stock LS6 one and all was fine.. it seem that the only solution are either to replace a bad O-Ring or replacing the pump ! as many have done to resolve there probelms.
I have not seen any threads finding the root cause of the Pump being bad... and I wish someone with the Technical back ground and equipement would research this.
#7
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Don't feel bad, I have better pressure at idle with my LS6 stock pump than my ported one. But at WOT the ported one is 5>10 psi more. I guess that is where it matters