jag42420

I just bought a 2002 WS6 A4 TA. Other than a SLP lid I just added and a ported TB, it is stock with 17k miles. I intend to put $1000-1500 in it on this set of upgrades. I'm eyeing a set of coated Pacesetters that would lead into a set of 2.5" true duals, rear dump. I've also considered a new cam and converter. I'd like to get the most power out of the money. Suggestions and opinions would be nice...

lsx24

iTrader: (45)

A good complete exhaust system is by far the best upgrade you can do. And the first things you should install. But imo for the duals I would exit out the back not dump before the axle...it will sound more refined and there would be less random vibrations and noise inside the car.

You can have a shop custom fab up something, or in your budget range a really nice option would be coated pacesetters into Magnaflow high flow cats into the Bassani Dual exhaust system. That would be one badass system.

TXws6

iTrader: (10)

congrats on the new car! I would start with an exhaust system for sure, i think most everyone will say the same.

00formLs1

an exhaust is good in all but the performance gains from going to an aftermarket converter will be greater than any exhaust system besides sts lol.
for any a4 a converter will be the best.
i am at elavation so stock i went 14.2, with full exhaust, Lt's ory snd cb i went 14.03. with the converter and mods above i went 13.4. if that would have been my first mos i could have been in the 13's with that.

Ericbigmac83

iTrader: (19)

Dumps before the rear will be loud and you might find it annoying, taking them out the back is expensive, so you might want a catback instead.
And then go with a converter and see where your finances are, maybe some suspension stuff after that so you can get the car to hook

lsx24

iTrader: (45)

Lol don't listen to naysayers, first thing you need to do is let that puppy B-R-E-A-T-H-E.

jag42420

I have a friend that owns an exhaust shop, and he's ran my 2.5 duals with Flowmasters and no converters in the past on my SS Monte Carlos (for about $250). I'm going to look him up again.

The y-pipe on my TA looks VERY restrictive, and I know it needs to be enlarged. I don't like excessive interior resonation, and will be going either over or under the rear axle. Opinions on either route the pipes should go and personal experiences would definitely be appreciated...

Also, opinions on losing the converters? I'm used to carbed cars, this is my first injected one....

Ericbigmac83

iTrader: (19)

Ditch the catalytic converters and get the codes tuned out. If you can get the duals out the back for $250 the go for it, thats an awesome price. Most people go over the axles from what ive seen, you have to be careful going under the axles with a lowered car.

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

I'll be a dissenter.

For an A4, a 3000 - 3500 stall torque converter is the best mod. They're not cheap but provide big gains.
Don't even start thinking cam before a converter.

Do you have the build sheet? If you car has the dual/dual upgrade, you will not get much from going to true duals.

Lid, converter, cut-out will give you the most performance for your $$

BayAreaSS

iTrader: (10)

I would do the converter, Pacesetter Lt's and duals if your friend gives you a good price. Those mods will really improve your car.

Hennytime

iTrader: (33)

for your money-
used mac mids, ory, cutout-300
yank stall converter, tranny cooler, shift kit-750
dr's-250
150 wet shot-500

jag42420

I looked at converters, 3500/3600 range. How would a 3500 stall work with a 01/02 cam profile? I understand they cammed them down a bit when they put on the LS6 intake and 28# injectors. Any suggestions on the best place to get a stall?

Exhaust I think is a definite, and probably a stall, shift kit and cooler. I already have a SLP lid. I'm not a nitrous fan though. I grew up in a machine shop and have seen what it does to internals unless built properly for it. Besides, nitrous runs out and has to be refilled. I prefer more permanent solutions.

I need drag radials, but I need something that fits well on the stock wheels and doesn't rub. I smoke'em from 40mph when I get into it now, and forget punching it off the line. This car is a street car, and I need good streetable tires that transfer power better. Suggestions?

lsx24

iTrader: (45)

I see what your saying, a convertor may very well offer increased performance by the numbers, than headers and duals (although it would be close since headers and duals will add 25-30 hp and at least as much tq...).

However it's not all about the numbers...our engines need to Breathe, and I wouldn't feel right driving around with the engine all corked up like this.

It's a matter of opinion I suppose or maybe a different perspective, but I'm of the opinion that you need to allow the engine to it's full potential, before you start adding other modifications. Hearing an ls1 soar to 6k rpm at full song is worth the price of admission, regardless of what converter you have on there.

In addition, Good Headers and true duals will not only add 25-30 hp, but also add tons of tq as well...that's where true duals really shine is the tq, because with an xpipe it scavenges like a good set of LTs. I gained 20 lb/ft of tq switching from a ypipe setup to duals, and I think good headers and duals is one of the best exhaust systems you can run.

jag42420

I emailed TCI about a converter. They said a 3500 stall would be 'too loose'? Their tech told me I'd need to upgrade my cam and rear gears first, and then get a stall...

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

Get the pacesetters and the dumps. Dont get the pacesetter y if you do decide to go catback. Im saving up to get the dumps, then I will get the stall and cooler.

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

A 3500 is very common place. It will work great on a stock motor.

I believe in headers, but on a limited budget, they do not produce the highest performance improvment for the dollar spent compared to a converter for an A4.
No doubt that true duals are very nice.
Do you have the before & after graph? Just curious which y-pipe & catback you had. I know some of the header Y-Pipes are really giant POS. On my other car, I replaced the Y-Pipe with one made with a true merge and exitted into a 3.5" I-pipe and 3.5" cut-out. It made a big enough difference that even with the cut-out closed, I had to redo my idle tuning.

dnm12

iTrader: (13)

for me I would say stick it.....throw a cam in there and get a dyno tune...... then go from there a nice cam will knock half second from your 1/4 time if not more, thats the same argument for juice but thats even cheaper, in the short term

lsx24

iTrader: (45)

I went from stock ypipe to 2.5" true duals and picked up massive tq (mostly because of the scavenging), and others have done similarly (going from ypipe to duals you pick up tq but not necessarily hp):

jag42420

Did you install an h/x pipe?

wldesyWS6

iTrader: (2)

suspension (SFC's), DRs,and a converter -gotta be able to put your power to the ground....then all hell shall break loose with your headers/TDs and so on...