What can a stock LS1 handle for psi?
#1
What can a stock LS1 handle for psi?
When is comes to Turbocharging an LS1, at what point do you need to worry about forging the bottom end? I spoke to representatives at Squires Turbo Systems and they told me that a stock LT1 can handle 6 to 7 psi with their rear mounted turbo systems. The LS1 is all aluminum though so could it handle more than LT1?
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#2
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If anything, i'd think the fact that the LS1's are aluminum would make them capable of handling LESS psi. Go with the STS reccomendation, 6-7 psi, you'll still make serious power and it'll be reliable. Speaking of forging though, what does it take to consider a motor forged? Can you just put in forged pistons and rods and say it's forged, or do you need an entire forged rotating assembly including the crankshaft? Sorry... .
#6
Originally Posted by chevcamdan
When is comes to Turbocharging an LS1, at what point do you need to worry about forging the bottom end? I spoke to representatives at Squires Turbo Systems and they told me that a stock LT1 can handle 6 to 7 psi with their rear mounted turbo systems. The LS1 is all aluminum though so could it handle more than LT1?
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#10
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Over the years I have seen folks run 8-10 lbs of boost all the time. 12-15 would be more tricky and one mistake could end up with a busted stock piston they are forgiving at the higher boost levels.
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since your looking at STS theyll likely recommend lowering your compression, which you should do before stepping up beyond 6psi. 5psi and a tune is fine on the stock motor. But consider adding a better fuel pump/injectors. Once you get into 7-9psi get some LQ9 heads. Theyll lower your CR down and a nice tune will be safe for 9psi. Search and youll see most guys recommend keeping the car under 550rwhp. But in the end its all in the tune. If you arent very familiar with these motors then i think 550 is a good stopping point until you get a fresh motor sitting in the garage.
To the poster about forging. You dont need to get a forged crank. The stocker will support 700+rwhp. Rods, pistons...yes, a forged setup will always be safer and longer lasting.
To the poster about forging. You dont need to get a forged crank. The stocker will support 700+rwhp. Rods, pistons...yes, a forged setup will always be safer and longer lasting.
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Its really all in the tune....my buddy is running 15psi with a 92mm turbo but he can tune like no other. Of course its still a time bomb, but it should hold for a little while.
True, but revs kill the rod bolts, not power from what I've heard/read.
Its a loosely used term. I personally have forged everything but the crank and I consider my shortblock forged...mainly because our stock cranks are for the most part unbreakable.
Originally Posted by GR33N GoblinM6
it comes down to a few things in the engine.. I would say 1st would be the rod bolts in the engine.. the 98's had weaker rod bolts that later model LSx engines..
Originally Posted by 09CPTN
what does it take to consider a motor forged?
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I run 9psi on a factory stock LT1.
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95 Pontiac Formula- Stock engine with ATI Procharger, Moser 12 bolt w/4:30 gears, Rossler trans, Neil Chance 4000 stall, M/T ET streets, 10.914@ 121.90mph, 1.452 60ft. GMHTP November 2010 Feature Car. Check it out at:
https://www.motortrend.com/features/...ebird-formula/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=abZ1z...ature=youtu.be
95 Pontiac Formula- Stock engine with ATI Procharger, Moser 12 bolt w/4:30 gears, Rossler trans, Neil Chance 4000 stall, M/T ET streets, 10.914@ 121.90mph, 1.452 60ft. GMHTP November 2010 Feature Car. Check it out at:
https://www.motortrend.com/features/...ebird-formula/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=abZ1z...ature=youtu.be