CHRIZ28

iTrader: (15)

Well, to make a long story short, the car almost spun a rod, the bearing did not rotate all the way around, there was still about 25% of the lock remaining and the crank and rod did not suffer. But anyways, I was/am really low on cash and just had the block "touch honed" to remove some scratches and the crank polished, machine shop said stay standard and could keep factory pistons. So, I buy federal bearings and file-fit rings and start the rebuild. On initial startup everything seemed o.k. except for the loud (dry) valvetrain for about 5-10 seconds then it was quiet. I've got about 70 miles on the rebuild and on cold startup the engine almost sounds like it knocks. But goes away just about as soon as the temp needle moves. Oil pressure is about two needle widths above 40 and warm is at 40. Everything stays quiet and car runs good, no lights or nothing. But I've noticed a couple of water droplets under my oil cap when I pull it off, I dry it, but it comes back after I drive it. So, I'm really worried, I know I torqued everything down good and took my time, but I'm afraid the "touch hone" might have been the culprit and giving me piston slap. Any suggestions or comments on the water would be appreciated, sorry for the long post.

Chris

Fire-formula 93

iTrader: (1)

Water under the oil filler cap is normal since it is not vented. This seems to happen if you take it out for short drives. I dont drive very far at a time so I get some buildup from moisture under the oil cap too.

CHRIZ28

iTrader: (15)

Cool, that's what I wanted to hear. As for the light knocking sound I think I'm going to drop the pan and look at the rods to see if they're scared up or something. Is there a trick to removing the pan w/o removing the k-member or engine?