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Morel link bar lifters LS1/2/6 picture

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Old 03-09-2007, 01:47 PM
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Default Morel link bar lifters LS1/2/6 picture

Recieved set of these new Morel lifters in.

Hydraulic roller $529 shipped UPS


Last edited by Fraser@speedinc; 03-09-2007 at 02:08 PM.
Old 03-09-2007, 01:56 PM
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solid roller?
Old 03-09-2007, 02:07 PM
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Available Solid or Hydraulic
Old 03-10-2007, 07:37 AM
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What's the advantage of the link bar in a Hyd. lifter?
Old 03-10-2007, 12:52 PM
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none on a hyd roller, it just adds weight and causes earlier valve train float etc
Plus a factory lifter holder has never failed, the link bar *could* fail..

Solid roller it would work great
Old 03-11-2007, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by motorbuilt
none on a hyd roller, it just adds weight and causes earlier valve train float etc
Plus a factory lifter holder has never failed, the link bar *could* fail..

Solid roller it would work great
Agreed. I prefer keyway lifters for solid, and if on a budget I'd recommend the dog bone-type lifters over a tie-bar.

For a hydraulic lifter, a tie-bar is just another moving piece that can fail and adds weight (not as significant over the camshaft for a hydraulic cam setup). The regular Morel lifters in LS2 lifter trays would be all you need.
Old 03-11-2007, 09:17 PM
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Lifters have turned in the plastic trays before. While it may not be common, this will eliviate that problem. I agree that even the best parts can fail, but Morel is a top notch company and one failing will be about as common as a lifter turning in it's tray.
Old 03-11-2007, 09:26 PM
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I have never seen a lifter turn in the tray on a LS engine, but I guess it could happen. If you really have a fear of the lifter turning you can use a dog bone style retainer like the old GM or Ford engines. Jesel makes an all metal dog bone retainer for the LS engines, although you do need to mod the LS2 style blocks mildly to use it.


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Old 03-11-2007, 10:15 PM
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My lifter turned still stuck in the block and i cant pull it out. took my cam with it obviously. it was only one of the small things to go wrong in my cluster f_ck. I cant salvage anything that was worth saving(cam, heads, crank, block...) i dont know if the lifter turned during or after my motor gave out. the tray looks great too... plastic flexed enough to turn.
Old 03-12-2007, 01:46 PM
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If the tray is not broken, some outside force turned the lifter. Did you break a rod? Is the cam still in one piece? Is the front cam plate still intact?


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Old 03-12-2007, 03:08 PM
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I think if the base circle of the cam is to small the lifter comes down to much and can turn.I know of two local cars this happen to with stock lifters.With the same cam also.
Old 03-12-2007, 09:49 PM
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I'm going hydraulic, but an extreme hydraulic. Should I consider these or stick with the regular Morels or even something totally different?
Old 03-12-2007, 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Dragaholic
I'm going hydraulic, but an extreme hydraulic. Should I consider these or stick with the regular Morels or even something totally different?
I thought you already had the Caddy race lifters? These are the same as the regular Morels, only they incorporate the bar and get rid of the plastic trays. I got them because my "drop in" Morels were easy to sell and it only cost me a few bucks to upgrade. You'd have to come up with a bit of dough to make up the diffrence between the Caddy lifters.
Old 03-13-2007, 01:57 PM
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I would imagine these would make a camshaft change a pain in the assssss
Old 03-13-2007, 02:12 PM
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Morel was asked by an LS1 cam core supplier to the industry to make link bar lifter because of failures they had seen from the lifter twisting in the bore on the more aggressive cam lobe profiles.

Weight has been brought up before, the Morel is more stable at high rpm then the Eaton/Delphi/Johnson or Stanadyne roller tappet. The trend to stablize valvetrain in larger diameter tappets and pushrods. With this comes added weight but on the cam side of the valvetrain it is not as important to be light as it is to be durable.
Old 03-13-2007, 09:34 PM
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I don't have any lifters as of yet. I was going to just get the regular Morels that have been around for a while, but then these came out. Wasn't sure if I should consider these since mine will be much more aggressive than most here. I'm looking at a max effort cam (unknown specs/builders will decide), 13.5:1 compression, 415-416 cu. in., etc. So the Caddy lifters probably aren't an option for me as they do support 8000+ rpms, but with light weight valvetrain. My valvetrain will be light, but it still gona have the huge intake valve which I'm not sure the Caddy lifter will support.
Old 03-13-2007, 10:15 PM
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I would personally go with these on an extreme setup...but if you are going that "big" of a cam. Why arent you stepping up to a solid roller?
Old 03-13-2007, 10:25 PM
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I don't want to hassle with setting the valves and constantly having to monitor them. I want the ease of just racing it, of course with the obvious maintenance.
Old 03-13-2007, 11:15 PM
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If you were gunna get the drop in Morels, there's no reson not to spend the extra few bucks and get these.
Old 03-14-2007, 10:17 PM
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We have deleted the link bar in high output/durability gen 1 small and big blocks with great results. The reason we did this was mostly to stop link bar related failure. Reduced weight and reduced side load was just extra plus.
Our favorite hyd is still the Morel as it has proven durability in our testing at 7500+ rpm boosted drag engines and 7000 rpm na road race engines.

Kurt
Originally Posted by Cstraub
Morel was asked by an LS1 cam core supplier to the industry to make link bar lifter because of failures they had seen from the lifter twisting in the bore on the more aggressive cam lobe profiles.

Weight has been brought up before, the Morel is more stable at high rpm then the Eaton/Delphi/Johnson or Stanadyne roller tappet. The trend to stablize valvetrain in larger diameter tappets and pushrods. With this comes added weight but on the cam side of the valvetrain it is not as important to be light as it is to be durable.


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