JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

I need to remove my panhard rod and LCA's just long enough to drive the car about 10 mph for a few minutes ... to eliminate the polyurethane bushings as a cause of some really obnoxious noise when I slightly turn the car left or right. If I turn the steering wheel fairly hard at slow speeds or even very easy at normal driving speeds, there's no noise at all. Will it hurt anything to completely remove these suspension parts just lonng enough to eliminate the noise coming from them?

VIP1

You can't drive the car without any LCA or PHB connected. You'll cause serious damage if you try. They are what attach the rear end to the car. Without them the rear end and the body will become "separated" if you try to drive it.

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

yeah, I was afraid it might damage the area where the shocks are bolted to the body ... or maybe damage body where the rear sway bar brackets are bolted down. I guess I'll just have to take them off, relieve the bushings where I overfilled them with grease, lube them all over, and then put them back on ... just not too tight. At least this will eliminate them as a source from these noises coming from the rear of the car.

Viper

iTrader: (6)

Put the stock pieces back on (if you have them) to compare.

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

That was my first thought, but, I no longer have them. I'll just loosen them up a little and put some non-petrolate lithium grease all over them and try it that way.

VIP1

Running with them loose will just make more noise and add instability and unpredictability.

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

Well, I came home at lunch and put the car up on ramps ... added a small bottle of limited slip differential fluid to the rearend, then, I released the grease from P/H ROD and LCA ends by pushing in on the fitting valve on each end. Grease shot out the fititngs on a couple of them. Drove the car to work and it's my rearend. I believe what happened is when the shop replaced the pinion seal about 3 months ago, they tightened the pinion nut as a few people indicated might have happened. I guess the squeaking, grinding, and crunching noises are the bearing and ring/pinion gears clashing when I turn slightly.

I confirmed where the noise is coming from by having my wife drive the car while I was riding in the back with the back seats out. I next laid on the car at each corner with my ear hanging over beside each wheel ... no noise coming from the wheel areas.

It's pretty obvious what happened now and where the noises are coming from. Now, I don't want to take it back to the same shop anymore, ever. The problem I turned it in for never got resolved, even though I told them I thought the rearend was the problem. If they screwed it up this bad, I'm afraid to let them touch it again. When I had my stock 10-bolt, the same shop put in a shift kit. I had a heavy duty Eaton posi and a built 10-bolt with less than 45,000 original miles on the car. Picked it up from the shop and the 10-bolt grenaded less than 1000 yards from their shop. They built me the best motor anyone could ask for, however, when it somes to internal transmission and reerend work, it's obvious ther guy doesn't know what he's doing. What would you do if you were me? It's probably going to be like the tranny, they'll say it was just a coincidence it broke right after they fixed it it.

Do you think I should just cut my losses and take it to the dealership where if they screw it up they'll be obligated to fix it?