ewingr

I finally got all hooked up, fluids in and tried to start the LS1 for the first time. Of course, no luck.

A few things:

• I have a ground from the block (bolt going through tranny to block) to the body
• I have a ground from the body to the frame
• A ground from the battery to the frame
• Engine is brand new, never started. (2004 Corvette 350HP LS1)
• Camaro PCM, programmed by Wait4Me Performance
• Harness by Speartech
• I tried unhooking the MAF and cranking it. ( I read a suggestion on that hunting threads
• It is getting gas. I pulled a plug nad it was damp

Let's see, what else can I tell you?

I thought I was careful to wire as instructed.

Where do I start? Any suggestions?

12thstreetjunkman

iTrader: (16)

just as a double check, as I did this myself, make sure the wires that you have for switched 12v going to the pcm, have power in the start and run positions. I kept checking and checking things to find out when it was cranking over the ignition was dead.

ewingr

Interestingly, I just walked back in from checking the 4 fuses that come with the harness. They are good. As well, I checked to see that the one fuse that is supposed to be hot all the time was, and that the other 3 were only hot when the ignition is on. They were.

That being said, I did not pull teh plug looms from teh PCm and check there. Do you think I should do that?

Also, BTW...the check engine light comes on, as I woudl expect, when I turn the ignition on. It goes out while cranking the engine over. But of course when I stop cranking, it comes back on.

OH...I just re-read your note, and you said in the START AND RUN positions. I have not checked during start. I'm by myself now. I'll have to find someone to help me out on that one. Although, I expect that to be OK.

ewingr

I am presuming that the PCM is not dead, based on considering the following (which may make sense, or maybe not...this is all new stuff to me):

• It has been programmed. I presume that if the PCM was bad, it would have been determined then.
• I have electronic TB. It works
• The check engine light works
• The fuel pump works

Is there any particular sensor that could be bad that would prvent fire? (keeping in mind everything is brand new, I wouldn't think any of them would be bad, but you never know).

I don't have a clue where to start.

I'm gonna do some more browsing to see if I can come up with anything.

ewingr

I may have figured it out (hopefully), but not sure of the solution yet.

I find that I do have power at the coil pack plug when the ignition is on. But not while cranking the engine. Doesn't sound right to me.

Now, I have a big Pink wire from my harness that is supposed to be hot during key on, run and crank, and it isn't hot while cranking. Sounds like my problem.

Now, I suppose I need to post this in the 55-57 area (and I will): but I have that Pink wire hooked into the Pink wire from my ignition switch. I'm not sure where to hook it for hot while key on, run AND crank. Any thoughts?

ewingr

Well, I called S&P and Mark told me that I need to splice together Ign1 and Ign2 on that old ignition switch to get power at both crank and run. I had thought about that, but was concerned that maybe the power at crank was just at the solenoid, and if spliced, I would have the solenoid kicking in all the time.

They had a diagram at S&P site (which I can't link here because they use frames). I hooked a jumper from the blue wire terminal (which normally feeds the coil and resistor) to the middle unused Ign1 post, along with the wire needing power at crank and run for the harness, and it works.

ewingr

Well, the good is that I got it running. Although it's a little hard to start.

I have a list of problems, some I didn't expect:

• The Check Engine LIght stays on. Of course, I have nothing to use to check what the code is
• The Electronic Throttle Body does not work. I checked it and thought it did, although I was by myself. To check it I put a nut up against the shutter in the TB (this was some time ago), and pushed the pedal, and the bolt was moved forward. But, now that I can start the car, it doesn't work
• My Classic Instruments may have problems, as that the fuel guage doesn't work; the Temp guage doesn't work, the Tach doesn't work.
• My heater pressure line leaks at the bulkhead inside the firewall. I pulled it, and put in a new O-Ring, and made sure it was good and tight. Still leaks

How could I have been so optimistic that I thought once it started, I'd be almost home?