tee-boy

iTrader: (8)

How the hell do you proceed to change the no 6 and 8 plugs on a 98 WS6 TA? I tried from up top and from underneath. I don't see how it's possible.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

On my '98 I do those from the top. I remove the AIR tubes, rest my body across the top of the motor, and wiggle my arm down in there. Not easy, but it can be done.

tee-boy

iTrader: (8)

What size ratchet, extension, u joints are you using? What brand ratchet?

Quickin

I figured the perfect combo of tools to do this, after a few times busting my *** for 1 hour just to get that side out.

I do them all on that side in 15-20 minutes now.

I use a short ratchet, maybe 4 inches long, with a 1" long extension, than the spark plug socket on that. Its perfect. I lay on top of my engine, and with that combo in my hand I slide it all the way back and snap it right on the plug and take it all the way out in a couple minutes. The rest of them just get easier.

The drivers side I use a regular length ratchet with a basic 3" long extension. Works perfect.

Tomorrow I can take pics of the 3 pieces of tools I use if you want. I don;t remember the exact brand names and lengths.


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tee-boy

iTrader: (8)

Sure any help is much appreciated.

Fibbado

iTrader: (8)

You can get the #8 from the bottom... well thats how I did it when I had stock manifolds. LT's make this whole job like a 5 minute job.

Quickin

I'll post pics tomorrow.


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waldershrek

iTrader: (1)

There's a sticky on here somewhere that has a link to a write up on this

Quickin

I posted a thread showing a tool that helped alot of people get those damn plugs out called the "Indexable Ratchet". But the tool combo I have now is so perfect it's just crazy.


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tee-boy

iTrader: (8)

well i took your advice. bought a 1 inch extension and a longer 3/8 in ratchet. Was able to break the no 8 plug with the new ratchet from underneath. Then, I used my smaller 3/8 ratchet to work it out from the top. I took your advice and laid my body across the engine bay (feet off the ground); kind of catechoner. One things for sure about working on these cars, the more body positions you can put yourself in, the easier your job will be.

Quickin

Sorry for the delay, here it is. The 1" long socket shown in #4 is used on a couple to give you a little more extension, it goes over the outer part of the spark plug socket instead of the other smaller 1" extension going into the spark plug socket.

With this combo, you do it ALL FROM THE TOP in minutes, you grab the ratchet with the #2 extension and just the spark plug socket, put it in your left hand, lay over the engine, slide your left hand with the tool in your hand, all the way back and snap it on and ratchet it out. Easy as pie. Even for me.

I've done my plugs 10 times since I've had my car. One time I did it and the last person that did my plugs put them on VERY tight and it was hell to get the #8 plug off. I always put them in literally a tad more than finger tight. They won't come out, and it makes changing them the next time a piece of cake to get out.




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Starion

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the pictures Quickin. That should save me some time and aggravation by getting that tool combo when I go to do mine.

Quickin

If the last person that did your plugs happened to put them in real tight and you can't break it loose with that ratchet, just put it on the spark plug, than take something long enough to put against the ratchet while its on and smack it. It'll break it loose that way.


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tee-boy

iTrader: (8)

Are any of you using anti-sieze compound on the spark plug threads?

waiting2bl33d

i am. first spark plug change (from the factory) took around 6 hours for all 8 had some problems here and there with my AIR system. now i don't have AIR and i used anti-sieze the last time (as this time) and everything so far (except for 8) has taken about 2 hours

Quickin

Every time, but this last I didn't have any. As long as you don't crank them in real hard, they will come back out like butter.


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SladeX

I remove the rear coil packs along with disconnecting the air tube and placing it on the manifold. Number 6 and 8 become real accessible after that.

I also found a swivel head 3/8 socket wrench works wonders.

tee-boy

iTrader: (8)

Good info. I didn't put anti-sieze on mine. In fact I've never used that stuff on any of my engines. I wonder what the implications are?

tennz28

Sorry on a side note I just changed mine about 2 months ago I used the NGK 55's. I keep hearing guys talking about gaping them, I just took mine out of the box an installed them did I miss something?

taintedmeat

iTrader: (1)

You should always be using that since the heads are aluminum.