block fill those that have done it inside
09-29-2007, 09:24 AM
#2
my coolant temp is MUCH cooler then before. MY oil temp is higher though.
When crusing it gets to 160 after a while and just stays there. Durring an all out Nitous pass it will push 190-210 weather depending. By the time I get to the pitts it is back to 160-180 or so again
THis is with a BeCool Radiator and a CSI water pump
When crusing it gets to 160 after a while and just stays there. Durring an all out Nitous pass it will push 190-210 weather depending. By the time I get to the pitts it is back to 160-180 or so again
THis is with a BeCool Radiator and a CSI water pump
09-29-2007, 01:50 PM
#4
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Are you just doing a partial fill? I assume so. On my machine shop tab, it says "block fill." That being said, I don't know how extensive the job was but my car doesn't run any hotter. If you are concerned with oil temps, use a quality synthetic oil and you shouldn't have to worry about it.
09-30-2007, 03:57 AM
#7
I have just been doing surface temps on the pan. Hitting 230-240 after a short hiway trip.
I did the fill myself at the shop before i had all the machine work done. I have an Engine in the shop that was done by a vendor on CZ28 and I would not send my lawn mower there. There Idea of a short pour was to pour both sides at once to the Plugs. GREAT for re-enforcing the Pan rails but not much more
The way to do it is before any machine work but after it has been fully cleaned and checked.
I started by cleaning it coolant passages with Muratic acid. . . . .three times. there was alot of crap in there!!
Next I got some 3/8s(or so) surgical hose and ran it from the head bolt hole above the the drain plugs to the drain plugs....VERY IMPORTANT!!! Most do not do this.
Now you level the block head surface of one side. You want it as level as possible.
On an LT1 there is a plug on the passenger side that is lower then the others. Install the plug in the lowest hole. I can not remember if there is one on the driver side or not. If so install it also.
Now mix up you Fill. I used Moroso fill. It is much cheaper by the case FYI. I used half a bottle on each side. I used a funnel to pour it in the block through one of the holes in the center of the head surface.
At this point I took out my Trusty Air Hammer and gently rattled the block to get any air out of the fill and shake it into every small area.
I let it set for three days then did the other side the same way. after three more days I pulled the Surgical hose out and shoved it off into a corner of the shop for 30 days to let it all cure. After 30 days take it to the Machine shop and have them start!
Not hard just time consuming to do it correctly.
OH yeah ypou are wondering about the Surgical hose? Gotta do it if you want to use Knock Sensors
I did the fill myself at the shop before i had all the machine work done. I have an Engine in the shop that was done by a vendor on CZ28 and I would not send my lawn mower there. There Idea of a short pour was to pour both sides at once to the Plugs. GREAT for re-enforcing the Pan rails but not much more
The way to do it is before any machine work but after it has been fully cleaned and checked.
I started by cleaning it coolant passages with Muratic acid. . . . .three times. there was alot of crap in there!!
Next I got some 3/8s(or so) surgical hose and ran it from the head bolt hole above the the drain plugs to the drain plugs....VERY IMPORTANT!!! Most do not do this.
Now you level the block head surface of one side. You want it as level as possible.
On an LT1 there is a plug on the passenger side that is lower then the others. Install the plug in the lowest hole. I can not remember if there is one on the driver side or not. If so install it also.
Now mix up you Fill. I used Moroso fill. It is much cheaper by the case FYI. I used half a bottle on each side. I used a funnel to pour it in the block through one of the holes in the center of the head surface.
At this point I took out my Trusty Air Hammer and gently rattled the block to get any air out of the fill and shake it into every small area.
I let it set for three days then did the other side the same way. after three more days I pulled the Surgical hose out and shoved it off into a corner of the shop for 30 days to let it all cure. After 30 days take it to the Machine shop and have them start!
Not hard just time consuming to do it correctly.
OH yeah ypou are wondering about the Surgical hose? Gotta do it if you want to use Knock Sensors
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09-30-2007, 12:54 PM
#8
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Originally Posted by TwoFast4Lv
I have just been doing surface temps on the pan. Hitting 230-240 after a short hiway trip.
I did the fill myself at the shop before i had all the machine work done. I have an Engine in the shop that was done by a vendor on CZ28 and I would not send my lawn mower there. There Idea of a short pour was to pour both sides at once to the Plugs. GREAT for re-enforcing the Pan rails but not much more
The way to do it is before any machine work but after it has been fully cleaned and checked.
I started by cleaning it coolant passages with Muratic acid. . . . .three times. there was alot of crap in there!!
Next I got some 3/8s(or so) surgical hose and ran it from the head bolt hole above the the drain plugs to the drain plugs....VERY IMPORTANT!!! Most do not do this.
Now you level the block head surface of one side. You want it as level as possible.
On an LT1 there is a plug on the passenger side that is lower then the others. Install the plug in the lowest hole. I can not remember if there is one on the driver side or not. If so install it also.
Now mix up you Fill. I used Moroso fill. It is much cheaper by the case FYI. I used half a bottle on each side. I used a funnel to pour it in the block through one of the holes in the center of the head surface.
At this point I took out my Trusty Air Hammer and gently rattled the block to get any air out of the fill and shake it into every small area.
I let it set for three days then did the other side the same way. after three more days I pulled the Surgical hose out and shoved it off into a corner of the shop for 30 days to let it all cure. After 30 days take it to the Machine shop and have them start!
Not hard just time consuming to do it correctly.
OH yeah ypou are wondering about the Surgical hose? Gotta do it if you want to use Knock Sensors
I did the fill myself at the shop before i had all the machine work done. I have an Engine in the shop that was done by a vendor on CZ28 and I would not send my lawn mower there. There Idea of a short pour was to pour both sides at once to the Plugs. GREAT for re-enforcing the Pan rails but not much more
The way to do it is before any machine work but after it has been fully cleaned and checked.
I started by cleaning it coolant passages with Muratic acid. . . . .three times. there was alot of crap in there!!
Next I got some 3/8s(or so) surgical hose and ran it from the head bolt hole above the the drain plugs to the drain plugs....VERY IMPORTANT!!! Most do not do this.
Now you level the block head surface of one side. You want it as level as possible.
On an LT1 there is a plug on the passenger side that is lower then the others. Install the plug in the lowest hole. I can not remember if there is one on the driver side or not. If so install it also.
Now mix up you Fill. I used Moroso fill. It is much cheaper by the case FYI. I used half a bottle on each side. I used a funnel to pour it in the block through one of the holes in the center of the head surface.
At this point I took out my Trusty Air Hammer and gently rattled the block to get any air out of the fill and shake it into every small area.
I let it set for three days then did the other side the same way. after three more days I pulled the Surgical hose out and shoved it off into a corner of the shop for 30 days to let it all cure. After 30 days take it to the Machine shop and have them start!
Not hard just time consuming to do it correctly.
OH yeah ypou are wondering about the Surgical hose? Gotta do it if you want to use Knock Sensors
I may give this a try. Good info there. Did you just clean the coolant passages with the muratic acid or did you use that after the block was hot tanked?
09-30-2007, 03:24 PM
#9
Originally Posted by jakesz28
I may give this a try. Good info there. Did you just clean the coolant passages with the muratic acid or did you use that after the block was hot tanked?
I did it after the block was fully stripped and cleaned. Like I said there was alot of build up in there.
09-30-2007, 09:59 PM
#13
Originally Posted by Lonnies Performance
It will stabilize the cylinder bores allowing a better ring seal & therefore power. It can help prevent breakage, but stability is the primary concern.
WE HAVE A WINNER!!!!
Not that I am making any power but I plan on hitting 1k RWHP with thios block
