Transamdrgracer04

here is my set up how much HP should i get and what injectors should i use with the nos Direct port nossle setup


LT4 AFR210cc heads......
AFR Stud Girdle
LT4 intake......self ported. gasket matched, and opened up to 58mm
Scat Crank
Probe 6inch I Beams
SRP forged pistons.
(everything Is internally and externally balanced)
11.5-1 compression.
Pro seal rings.
Engine tech bearings
Cloyes Double Roller Timing Chain Non Lt1 04 lt4 setup
electric water pump
ARP head studs
ARP main bolts..... 4 bolt bessel splay caps
Felpro 1003 head gasket
bbk 58mm throttle body
Hooker Long tubes
200 shot Direct Port Nitrous
50-100 wet shot thorough plate if needed to catch up
3 inch mandrel bent true duals with x pipe exiting infort of the rear wheels
t56
aluminum driveshaft
larger solid cam..... 251 259 duration
stainless stell roller rockers
Pro Comp lifters
one peice high tech hardened pushrods
Altternator relocation to passanger pottom
Stock Opti Spark w/ Delteq optispark upgrade
12 bolt rear end with 4.56 gears
8 point cage with added strength bars
Tublar K member Upper and Lower A arms
Manual Rack
major weight reduction includes hvac, air bags, abs, racing seats and a couple other places.

kinglt-1

iTrader: (26)

you need 42# with a racetronix pump. 600whp on n2o?

infinitebird

iTrader: (11)

I would say you might need to go larger than 42 with that huge cam and a 200 shot.

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

I dunno guys, does 58# sound too big? That's my guess.

kinglt-1

iTrader: (26)

yea your right he will prolly need 60#mototron injectors.

Racetronix

iTrader: (2)

If the Siemens 63's (aka Mototron 60's) are a bit too large and the 42's are a bit too small you may consider our 48's.

speed_demon24

iTrader: (6)

You just need big enough injectors to feed the motor. A direct port and wet kit don't have any effect on the injector size. And if you are hitting it with a 300 shot why do you have 4.56 gears in it? What are you reving it to?

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Come on now, don't go talking intelligent like that.
That parts list screams "look at me I can spend gobs of money" and massive injectors just serve to further boost an ego.

Might consider an impedence converter and run some truely big injectors.

koolaid_kid

iTrader: (21)

I am so very glad that you never use sarcasm in your posts.
I suspect when he gets it running he will begin to sort out the "oops" and dial it in. We all learn at our own pace.
OTOH, those Racetronix sure do sound like the Delphi/Lucas/Mototron disc-type injectors. Hmmm.
Sorting through the things that actually relate to power, it sounds like a basic forged bottom end with basic boltons. Heads, headers, cam.
42s would probably suffice, 48s sound like more than enough (room to grow), the 60s overkill.

Transamdrgracer04

what do you mean about the opps and that we all learn at our own pace what am i doing wrong?

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

Don't think you'll need the plate for nitrous. You've probably maxed out with a 200 shot and additional jetting probably won't net you much if any gain--but I could be wrong. The SRP pistons will probably take the 200 shot fine but the alloy might not be good for 300.

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

4.56 might be overdoing it a little but with the solid roller, probably not by much. I might have chosen 4.11's.

Transamdrgracer04

is there something in the middle of 411 and 456

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

4.33's I believe. If you've already got this thing put together, run it and see. If not, I might consider another gear. http://www.richmondgear.com/101032.html Use that link to play with your RPM and speed relationship. You need to determine where that cam peaks at.

Transamdrgracer04

no i dont have the gears or anything in the rearend yet that is just what i was thinking of doing

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

Scale the gear back a tad, but like I said, use that calculator. If you haven't got any of the parts yet, I will suggest some places to cut some financial corners and upgrade some stuff (from my experiences). The AFRs--might consider stock heads from LE, Advanced Induction, or Port Pros. LT4 heads aren't really anything special when ported so the LT1 castings from those porters are just as good. LT4 intake availability is scarce, consider matching an LT1 intake to a set of those heads I mentioned (if you don't go LT4 heads you'll have to anyway). Skip the double roller and go with a stock chain and gear set. I reused my stock gears and just bought a new chain. I wouldn't think you'd need a stud girdle for your valvetrain. If you've planned this, then you aren't doing shaft rockers but I would think that the guideplates will serve the purpose of a girdle as well. (Will girdles even fit with guideplates installed?) Personally I wouldn't use an I beam rod with big nitrous shots so consider Scat's H-beam rod with the upgraded ARP bolts. However, the I beams might be just fine. Also I would do main studs as well cuz this will be a higher revver with the solid roller. Bolts would probably be fine but if it were me, I'd stud the mains before I did the heads. Skip the aluminum driveshaft and get a steel one. They're easy bent. I broke a tailshaft housing on my car a couple years ago and the driveshaft was toast. Also, maybe do the lower A arms, but skip the top. They're expensive and save like a pound total. Also other corners you might cut are the throttle body. Summit has their pieces for an excellent price. Also might consider Pacesetter headers over the Hookers for value. They're both 3/4" headers, so unless you're going stepped (Hedman), save some $$ there. Also I personally don't like the cermaic coating you get on a set of headers, so if you want coated headers, I might consider getting uncoated and send them to Jet Hot. I think that's all and again, my opinions only.

koolaid_kid

iTrader: (21)

So, how much is wish list and how much is sitting in your garage?
For the gears, use the calculator to see what you truly want to buy.
For a T56, the general rule of thumb is a 4.11s for the quarter mile.
Is this car going to be street driven at all?
As far as the "oops" go, we all make mistakes. As a general rule of thumb, you may want to consider how much power you want to make, then go backwards from there. A forged bottom end is a must, of course. I prefer the 6" rods, but clearances must be checked to function properly.
Cam choice is critical, as are the heads. The valves must be clearanced after everything is assembled, to insure that you don't send a valve through the piston the first time it cranks up.
Best of luck.

koolaid_kid

iTrader: (21)

AFA the driveshaft is concerned, I suggest either the Spohn or Strange Engineering steel chromoly unit. Both strong as a hoss. As an alternative, EPP does sell an aluminum unit with a lifetime guarantee. But I would hate to have to collect on it...
Best of luck.

speed_demon24

iTrader: (6)

How are 4.11's the general rule? There is no general rule, it will be based on the individual setup, tire size, RPM, trap speed, ect.

koolaid_kid

iTrader: (21)

That is why it is general, YMMV. If you wish to discuss further, we can go off-line and not cloud the thread.