ws6_bandit

iTrader: (5)

Ok so we bled the **** out of the hyd. system.. I cant get the car into gear.. if i shut the car off, put it into gear, and release the pedal the clutch grabs on the floor.. im guessing there is still air in the system. Any ideas on how to get all air bubbles out??

btw.. its an LS7 clutch with stock hydraulics.

Has anyone used this method of bleeding??
http://performanceworks1.com/ls1_clutch_bleeding.htm

67pete

I can't get my car into gear either, with the engine running.
I'm bleeding the clutch similar to the bleeding the brakes, pushing the pedal down a couple of times then wedging a 2x4 to hold it down, then go under the car to open the valve. Did this a couple of times, and then once thought I would add some fluid to the resoviour before going under the car, out comes fluid as if it was pressurized......

DarkC5

iTrader: (2)

This method of bleeding has worked well for some and not so well for others. Many people say that this has resulted in damaged seals in the master. You need to blleed it the proper way first. Get underneathe the car and crack that bleeder on the slave. Try to gravity bleed. Once you bleed the entire system, if you are still having problems....the odds are that the master cylinder is bad. Time to upgrade to an adjustable.

WFOWS6_IL

iTrader: (3)

I hear a lot about this bleeding issue. Both times I've bench bleed my master and had no problems. Never even had to re-bleed the slave.

If you take the MC off the car, leave the clutch line and res attached. Take a small pic with a 90 degree end and open up the plunger on the end of the line while slightly pushing to the side. This will allow the plunger to stay open.

Next, put that end of the line into the res and have someone push in the MC rod. Keep recycling the fluid till you see no bubbles.

Then, using the pic with a 90 degree end, you have to release the plunger WHILE THE END OF THE LINE IS IN FLUID. Route the MC with the line and res attached from the bottom and hook it all up.

Then bleed the slave as you were....if needed.

That's the way I've done it and haven't had any problems.

67pete

So what actually makes the master cylinder go bad?

WFOWS6_IL

iTrader: (3)

Most likely the fluid got hot, boiled, and broke down, or just broke down. Brake fluid usually starts to break down after so many years(think around 3-5) and it starts to crystalize. From there it just starts eatting seals and whatnot. Can also rub parts introducing metal shavings into the system.

Or the seals in the master or slave just wear out with normal wear and tear.

67pete

I just replaced the master cylinder,with a new stock part, and it exhibits the same symptons as the old set up. There is about 60k miles on the set up when I bought it. So is it possible the slave went bad.
Hope I'm not hijacking this thread too much..if I am I appologize!

WFOWS6_IL

iTrader: (3)

I'm not for sure on the slave part, but it's possible

67pete

Since I'm in a custom set up('67 ChevyII) what actual master cylinder push rod travel should I expect?

67pete

So 'ws6 bandit' did you resolve your problem yet?