Eric_99SS

this might be an idiotic question..anyway i reade a thread today stating that with a mityvac, you can bleed the cluth without having to get under your car and manually loosen the bleeder valve, also not needing the help of another person more importantly. If I go out and buy a mityvac, or a similar power bleeder, where do i bleed the system at? I havent replaced any parts, and hopefully dont have to, i think just after seven months of storage in the garage, the fluid got low, air got in, etc. Also is mityvac the only trustworthy bleeder, or can i buy a generic bleeder from autozone? where do i bleed the system from!? ahh
thanks guys

Viper

iTrader: (6)

Mityvac, put the nozzle in the bottom of the reservoir using one of the fittings that come in the kit.

Eric_99SS

okay, the resevoir is right next brake fluid resevoir, right? its very small, holds maybe a few ounces before it dumps to the line. if im bleeding from this resevoir, am i going to be filling the resevoir up every pump or so from the mityvac so that it doesnt become empty while im bleeding? and the same technique as far as the clutch pedal goes when bleeding with a mityvac as apposed to the bleeder valve, doesnt it?

jmm98LS1

iTrader: (28)

That's correct. What you're doing with the mityvac is actually sucking air out of the system through the reservoir....you're not replacing/losing much fluid. Go buy yourself a mityvac or any no-name vac pump and do this: (it'll make much more sense once you have a pump in your hands)

1) Fill Mityvac catch can 1/2 with clean brake fluid and screw on black top.
2) Attach one hose from catch can to the suction side of the Mityvac.
3) After determining which pointy attachment best fits (snuggly, no leaks) into the bottom of the reservoir hole, go ahead and attach to a separate hose.
4) Place finger on end of pointy attachment and fill this piece of hose 1/2 or so with clean brake fluid, then attach this hose to the other side of the catch can.
5) Insert the pointy attachment into hole in the bottom of reservoir, holding down to make sure seal is good.
6) Pump the Mityvac handle up to 10Hg on the guage (goes up to 30 Hg), wait a minute or so while air bubbles run up the hose past the brake fluid in the hose and into the vacuum created in the catch can.
7) After bubbles stop, slowly release vacuum using the release lever and pull the pointy attachment out at the same time (place finger on end of attachment so fluid doesn't run out everywhere).
8) Repeat step six two more times, until you get no more bubbles. Also, make sure the reservoir stays full at all times.
9) Pump pedal to confirm firm feel, start car and make sure you can get all gears, then take a test drive.

Some say you can pull more than 10" vacuum safely, but I've never gone over that (at risk of damaging seals) and have never had a problem getting all the air out.

Eric_99SS

thanks alot! i just bought the mityvac actually, and went through that process, got alot of air out, but i did a few things differently, so i may go back and try again. But since doing what i just did, the pedal actually depresses almost 100% easily without restriction, as apposed to before it was maybe only 90%. When doing this bleeding, am I to have one man in the car, with the clutch all the way in, then bleed it like you said, then let the clutch out, or do i not need anyone in the car, i can bleed the air out myself without pushing the clutch in and out?? I also read a shop manual on a jeep wranglers clutch, and something caught my eye about when vehicles are in storage for a long period of time it is possible for the clutch disc and pressure plate to stick together due to condensation...
effff!

BriancWS6

iTrader: (18)

If you have never messed with the fluid in your car at all, it's probably black, and needs to be flushed and replaced. I would recommend gravity bleeding it via the bleeder valve in the slave and continue to pour fresh fluid into the reservoir until it's flushed out. There will still be a small amount left in the master cylinder that will need to be flushed out as well. To do this, have the reservoir full, open the bleeder valve on the slave, have a buddy push the clutch in and hold it, then close the bleeder valve, and release the clutch. You'll need to do this several times to flush the old fluid out and allow the new fluid to enter the mc.

After all this THEN, I would do the mity vac process, and how I do that is....

Have a buddy in the car and with the mity vac fitting stuck down in the reservoir pumped it to 10 hg, and then have him SLOWLY push the pedal in and out. After a decent amount of slow pumps, release the pressure, make sure the reservoir is still full, and repeat another time or so for good measure.

I have had great results using Valvoline Synpower fluid. Also make sure to never let the fluid level in the reservoir get too low, or air will get back in the system and you'll have to start all over again. Why your down there wrap the stainless steel line with some heat reflective tape, some emissions hose, or something, and secure it as far away from the header as possible. This will keep the fluid from getting hot which breaks the fluid down faster causing poor clutch performance.

Good luck.