P0336 problems
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
P0336 problems
I've had a P0336 (CKP sensor performance) code ever since I put the 427 in my car 2 years ago. I've replaced the sensor twice with the same results. Last weekend I went through the entire GN service manual troubleshooting guide with no smoking guns found. Anyone have any ideas what else could be causing this? The clearance between the sensor and reluctor ring is the same as the stock LS6 was (still have it sitting in a crate). The resistance between the CKP sensor connector and PCM connector was all good (0 ohms). I routed the wires as shown in the service manual (away from EMI sources). A visual inspection of the reluctor ring (using a boro scope) revealed no apparent damage.
The car runs well. The problems a fluctuating tachometer (about 3-400 rpm) and my data logs abviously show random 3-400 rpm fluctuations. And due to the p0336 code, I can't do the sensor relearn procedure (which sets the p1336 code). I'mm afraid I'm leaving a lot of ponies on the table due to fluctuating timing caused by this (does it affect actual timing).
A post in the C4 section mentions that a lope in the idle may cause this code (which I don't understand if that applies to the C5), but as listed in my sig, my car is VERY modified and this may be a cause (although there isn't a huge lope to the idle).
Any experts have any thoughts?? I'm looking to try anything at this point.
Derrick
Ads by Google
Engines & Transmissions
Genuine GM Engines & Transmissions Low Wholesale Prices To Everyone
lowcostengines.com/
__________________
Currnet Family Toys (A.K.A MY Toys )
2001 Corvette Z06, C5R 427, PTS Twin T-64 turbo system, AFR 225's, FAST 90mm intake/TB, 95# injectors, Comp cams 238/242, Callies crank, Oliver rods, Mahle pistons, Roadrunner PCM, and some other 'odds-n-ends'
2006 Charger SRT-8, Zoomers exhaust, PCM upgrade, Air raid intake (the wife's car). Unbelievable tire burnout car!!
2007 GMC Yukon Denali, Family Hauler
2007 Big Dog K-9 Chopper, the "HEAD TURNER"
The car runs well. The problems a fluctuating tachometer (about 3-400 rpm) and my data logs abviously show random 3-400 rpm fluctuations. And due to the p0336 code, I can't do the sensor relearn procedure (which sets the p1336 code). I'mm afraid I'm leaving a lot of ponies on the table due to fluctuating timing caused by this (does it affect actual timing).
A post in the C4 section mentions that a lope in the idle may cause this code (which I don't understand if that applies to the C5), but as listed in my sig, my car is VERY modified and this may be a cause (although there isn't a huge lope to the idle).
Any experts have any thoughts?? I'm looking to try anything at this point.
Derrick
Ads by Google
Engines & Transmissions
Genuine GM Engines & Transmissions Low Wholesale Prices To Everyone
lowcostengines.com/
__________________
Currnet Family Toys (A.K.A MY Toys )
2001 Corvette Z06, C5R 427, PTS Twin T-64 turbo system, AFR 225's, FAST 90mm intake/TB, 95# injectors, Comp cams 238/242, Callies crank, Oliver rods, Mahle pistons, Roadrunner PCM, and some other 'odds-n-ends'
2006 Charger SRT-8, Zoomers exhaust, PCM upgrade, Air raid intake (the wife's car). Unbelievable tire burnout car!!
2007 GMC Yukon Denali, Family Hauler
2007 Big Dog K-9 Chopper, the "HEAD TURNER"
#3
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I thought maybe the clearance between the reluctor and sensor could be too far already and be causing this, and was considering shaving the sensor mount to get it closer, but never thought I may need to move it further away. There are no signs of contact between the reluctor and sensor as it is. Does it make sense to move the sensor tip further away from the reluctor wheel?
Derrick
Derrick
#4
TECH Resident
iTrader: (6)
I've had a few GM vehicles in my shop that have had a similar problem like this. Some have drivability porblems some did not. Shiming the CKP fixed the problem everytime. But through all of the car/trucks not a single one has had contect between the reluctor wheel and the CKPS. Try shimming it first and if that does not fix anything you can move on to something else.
#5
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, I tried shimming the CKP sensor with the same results. So I bit the bullet and pulled the motor to find the reluctor ring bent. Unfortunately, the pictures I took are too large to upload. I think this was shipping damage when I got the crank and I never thought anything about it at the time. I've bent the ring back into shape and will be putting the motor back together as soon as some new main bearing arrive (crank end play at .010", just slightly loose). I hope this fixes the problem and I will actually see how this motor truly performs. Still shooting for over 1000 RWHP.
Derrick
Derrick
#6
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just got around to doing the CKP relearn today. Also drove the car for the first time today. WAYYYY smoother running. It's nice having a steady tach vice oscillating 400 RPM around the actual RPM.... Some things that I had problems with before and now don't that may be related to the P0336 are :
Tach smoothness
Running rough
Part throttle surging
Car now reeturns to a rock steady idle after revving it (vice hunting)
It no longer "hangs up" at 1200 RPM when the throttle cracker is activated (now returns to idle RPM when clutch is pushed and car moving)
The only downside, which I just need time to tune out, is that it's very "lopey" at idle and cold. It settles out as it warms up. I'll try playing with the timing at idle over the next few days to try and solve this problem (not really a problem, but gives away some of the stealth the car has otherwise).
Derrick
Tach smoothness
Running rough
Part throttle surging
Car now reeturns to a rock steady idle after revving it (vice hunting)
It no longer "hangs up" at 1200 RPM when the throttle cracker is activated (now returns to idle RPM when clutch is pushed and car moving)
The only downside, which I just need time to tune out, is that it's very "lopey" at idle and cold. It settles out as it warms up. I'll try playing with the timing at idle over the next few days to try and solve this problem (not really a problem, but gives away some of the stealth the car has otherwise).
Derrick
#7
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Just got around to doing the CKP relearn today. Also drove the car for the first time today. WAYYYY smoother running. It's nice having a steady tach vice oscillating 400 RPM around the actual RPM.... Some things that I had problems with before and now don't that may be related to the P0336 are :
Tach smoothness
Running rough
Part throttle surging
Car now reeturns to a rock steady idle after revving it (vice hunting)
It no longer "hangs up" at 1200 RPM when the throttle cracker is activated (now returns to idle RPM when clutch is pushed and car moving)
The only downside, which I just need time to tune out, is that it's very "lopey" at idle and cold. It settles out as it warms up. I'll try playing with the timing at idle over the next few days to try and solve this problem (not really a problem, but gives away some of the stealth the car has otherwise).
Derrick
Tach smoothness
Running rough
Part throttle surging
Car now reeturns to a rock steady idle after revving it (vice hunting)
It no longer "hangs up" at 1200 RPM when the throttle cracker is activated (now returns to idle RPM when clutch is pushed and car moving)
The only downside, which I just need time to tune out, is that it's very "lopey" at idle and cold. It settles out as it warms up. I'll try playing with the timing at idle over the next few days to try and solve this problem (not really a problem, but gives away some of the stealth the car has otherwise).
Derrick