is anyone spraying with minor bolt ons??
05-24-2008, 02:02 PM
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is anyone spraying with minor bolt ons?? i've been thinking about my future mods and checking out prices as of now all i have is cut off right before the muffler and a short stick, what im doing is lid,bellows,z06 stock 85mm maf, stock p&p tb,K&N filter they are deffinate mods the cars an 02 so i already have the ls6 manifold. I've been debating and checkin prices ar headers are around $1000 plus install OR i can get everything for nitrous even the little accessories for about the same price. best bang for buck would be nitrous correct? i know theres no way in hell headers would free up 100-125hp. im thinken 100-125shot and a tune by fran at rpm. i wanted to know is anyone running a setup like i just explained? (basically full intake stock exhaust with cut out 100-125 shot and a tune) hows their car holding together? what kind of 1/4 times are they seeing? and are they running a wet or dry kit? i've been told and read that ls1's love the bottle my cars daily driven with just over 100,000miles and people have told me that as long as i keep up with maintanence it should be fine with the nitrous for many more miles. sorry for the long post and thanks for reading.
05-24-2008, 02:27 PM
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Nitrous is definitely more power for the $$$. I am going to order a dry shot soon, but not going to spray more than 100.
I have a Diablosport predator I can use to monitor knock and take out timing if I have too...and I'll check the A/F on a dyno...
I have a Diablosport predator I can use to monitor knock and take out timing if I have too...and I'll check the A/F on a dyno...
05-24-2008, 03:54 PM
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i ran a zex wet kit on my 01 m6 z-28
sprayed a 150 shot with no problem and not even a tune or timing adjustment,i did have the a/f checked of course and everything was fine
my suggestion would be get a good wet kit and hang on
with a 100-125 shot you should expect about a second off of your quarter mile time
make sure you get some plugs like ngk tr6 and gap them at .30 to.35
also since you have a manual i would really suggest a wide open throttle switch and a window switch that activates and deactivates it at certain rpms,a fuel pressure safety switch is also a really good idea
sprayed a 150 shot with no problem and not even a tune or timing adjustment,i did have the a/f checked of course and everything was fine
my suggestion would be get a good wet kit and hang on
with a 100-125 shot you should expect about a second off of your quarter mile time
make sure you get some plugs like ngk tr6 and gap them at .30 to.35
also since you have a manual i would really suggest a wide open throttle switch and a window switch that activates and deactivates it at certain rpms,a fuel pressure safety switch is also a really good idea
05-24-2008, 08:29 PM
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i want stainless because i plan to keep this car forever. it will eventually get lt's but i'm just lookin to go fast cheaper right now certain things i just wont skimp out on you know. i wouldnt even think about nitrous if i didnt have so many people tellin me it would take it all day. and the wot switch and window switch and a bunch of other things i was told i should run. i was leanin towards a dry shot because they're normally cheaper and an easier install. thanks for gettin back to me on this situation, i knew i wouldnt be alone in this but i just wanted to see how many of you guys there were out there and what you were doin times and what kits.
05-24-2008, 08:42 PM
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i would say stick to a wet kit for now much safer on stock FUEL components and you dont have worry about tables changing all the time due to different readings from the maf
zex makes a really safe kit for stock systems,some say there solenoids suck but i didnt have any issues and with a 100 shot it made 110 more hp and 180 more ft. lbs. of torque,no headers that was stock manifolds
zex makes a really safe kit for stock systems,some say there solenoids suck but i didnt have any issues and with a 100 shot it made 110 more hp and 180 more ft. lbs. of torque,no headers that was stock manifolds
Last edited by dpinson; 05-25-2008 at 12:48 AM.
05-24-2008, 09:53 PM
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As far as wet vs dry goes, you shouldn't have a problem going dry with a 100 shot with your current mods. I am spraying 150 though a lid, ls1 intake, mac mids, and SLP's catback, but I also have 30# Ford SVO injectors to accommodate for future mods and fueling. The 28.8#/hr injectors on the 2001 and 2002 should not be a problem in supporting a dry 100 shot. Get the tune done after the install and before you first spray so that the tuner can make adjustments as necessary. Colder plugs are also a must. Best time to do your plugs though is while doing a header swap.
Hell, if you go and do a header swap you might as well also do poly motor mounts if you're at the 100k marker.
Nitrous is nitrous and it doesn't matter whether you spray with fuel from an orifice or from your injectors it still needs to be there. Why run old school when the vehicle is more than capable of adding fuel itself?
Hell, if you go and do a header swap you might as well also do poly motor mounts if you're at the 100k marker.
Nitrous is nitrous and it doesn't matter whether you spray with fuel from an orifice or from your injectors it still needs to be there. Why run old school when the vehicle is more than capable of adding fuel itself?
Last edited by Alt; 05-25-2008 at 08:08 AM.
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05-25-2008, 12:02 AM
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As far as wet vs dry goes, you shouldn't have a problem going dry with a 100 shot with your current mods. I am spraying 150 though a lid, ls1 intake, mac mids, and SLP's catback, but I also have 30# Ford SVO injectors to accommodate for future mods and fueling. The 28.8#/hr injectors on the 2001 and 2002 should not be a problem in supporting a dry 100 shot. Get the tune done after the install and before you first spray so that the tuner can make adjustments as necessary. Colder plugs are also a must. Best time to do your plugs though is while doing a header swap.
Hell, if you go and do a header swap you might as well also do poly motor mounts if you're at the 100k marker.
To the poster above me, please become more informed between the wet and dry systems and how they work before you go spreading information that turns people away from something that could be quite plausible for the setup that they are looking for. Nitrous is nitrous and it doesn't matter whether you spray with fuel from an orifice or from your injectors it still needs to be there. Why run old school when the vehicle is more than capable of adding fuel itself?
Hell, if you go and do a header swap you might as well also do poly motor mounts if you're at the 100k marker.
To the poster above me, please become more informed between the wet and dry systems and how they work before you go spreading information that turns people away from something that could be quite plausible for the setup that they are looking for. Nitrous is nitrous and it doesn't matter whether you spray with fuel from an orifice or from your injectors it still needs to be there. Why run old school when the vehicle is more than capable of adding fuel itself?
and the fact of the matter is it is safer to have the fuel there than rely on your maf to add it for you
nobody said a dry wouldnt work but you cant argue with the fact that the tables can vary due to erratic maf readings
05-25-2008, 08:08 AM
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You can spray whatever you want as long as you give the motor enough fuel one way or another. You can check out the https://ls1tech.com/forums/removed-locked-thread-graveyard/626209-dry-vs-wet.html wet vs dry thread for some additional info.
But if I cannot rely on my MAF to add additional fuel while spraying then how can I rely on it to provide me with proper fuel while NA? If there are problems with the readings, nozzle placement or a dirty MAF could be the issue.
But if I cannot rely on my MAF to add additional fuel while spraying then how can I rely on it to provide me with proper fuel while NA? If there are problems with the readings, nozzle placement or a dirty MAF could be the issue.
05-25-2008, 09:28 AM
#11
Yo Damien, whats up, when did you run your car? I think I have seen your TA driving around. I,ll have to look for you out there or let me know next time you go down to atco, me and some of the f-body guys that I hang out with down there can help you out. I have been tormenting myself about headers or spraying a 100 dry shot myself.
05-25-2008, 10:19 AM
#12
You can spray whatever you want as long as you give the motor enough fuel one way or another. You can check out the https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=626209 wet vs dry thread for some additional info.
05-25-2008, 05:25 PM
#13
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I can toss this your way.......
With bolt-ons in my sig I turned a 12.64 @ 109 in the 1/4.
Armed my system [ 75 shot] and dropped it down to a 12.01 at 115 mph.
I was happy.
With bolt-ons in my sig I turned a 12.64 @ 109 in the 1/4.
Armed my system [ 75 shot] and dropped it down to a 12.01 at 115 mph.
I was happy.
My buddy put like 20 bottles through his 98 with only headers and exhaust until the engine let go. Stock 6 speed and 10 bolt too. Yes he was running shitty tires and well times too 
LOL
05-25-2008, 10:58 PM
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lol thats pretty nuts. im just gonna make sure i have another ride in the yard before i spray. i want 11's whether be high or low doesnt matter yet. i just want to be able to say i have a daily driver that does 11's and i can still rip to the beach and back like any other car. an 11sec car around me is fast. there are only a few cars faster than 12.0 but they are all 10sec all motor fully built with lots of bottle and **** them guys idk to keep up with them just yet lol.
05-26-2008, 12:52 AM
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Runnin a HSW Wet kit. I've only ran the 75shot with my new rear end. Ran 11.84 or so @ 116 with 1.6x-1.7x 60'. Last years numbers are in my sig. The stock converter is really holding me back now. I surprise alot of people at the track. I was hangin with a stock Z06 until he learned how to launch the thing. Pisses Cobra guys off with p&p blowers and what not (read $). Definately the best power per dollar. Only crappy part is having to fill the bottle frequently especially with the higher shots. As far as durability, grenaded a trans(50+ runs on bottle at least) , don't know how the m6s hold up. 10 bolt didn't like it, started to chip the teeth off of the gears in the torsen diff. I hear they shatter like glass with a lot of shock. Motor has been fine though. Change oil and plugs and good gas. I'd say go for it if you can afford to upgrade when things break but that'll happen with any big increase in power.
Eric
Eric
05-27-2008, 08:44 PM
#20
Hmm, I would've thought that a 175 shot could take off more than 1.2, depending on where your rpm window is and if you're launching on the bottle. A guy I know took off 1.3 with a 150 shot (12.50 to 11.17), NOS 05177 dry kit. He was spraying right off of the line and through the shifts though.
What kind of setup do you have (converter, rpm window, fuel, etc)?
What kind of setup do you have (converter, rpm window, fuel, etc)?