oteixeira

iTrader: (1)

Well,

I finally bit the bullet and purchased my package today. Tell me if I overspent, I am worried I did. I got:

2005 FlexFuel 5.3 (L59) Silverado motor
4l60e trans
harness, w/ on board computer
Under hood fuse box
Gas peddle and module that plugs into the computer (I guess)

I paid 2200 for all this, it has 32K miles on it.

I am putting it into my '70 Chevy C-20 Camper Special, and will start to have some pictures soon. I ordered the Early Classic Gen III motor mounts, and they are (hopefully) on the way. I also ordered an 18 gallon fuel cell with fuel pump internal from a cool guy on the truck forums (67-72chevytrucks.com). So, what gotchas do I need to worry about?

The couple of things I always wonder about are gauges...are their pin outs for all the gauges on the computer, or do I need to get all new senders and drill and tap them into the block?

Also, The wire harness on these old trucks had half going to the front electrics, and the second half going to the engine, so can I just ignore the engine side of the fuse block and just re-connect the light's and accessories from the other side of that harness?

Thanks,

Orlando

SheldonZ28

iTrader: (4)

Pretty damn good imo. I paid $1900 for the same setup but a 2004 non flex.

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

On the gauges, it depends on if you plan on keeping the original gauges, or if you're using aftermarket gauges. On the 68 I built a couple of years ago, I used the original gauges by drilling the head and tapping it for the 68's temp sender, I drilled and tapped the fitting on the side of the oil pan for the mechanical oil pressure guage. Ammeter uses the existing cab harness wiring, and I used a Cable-X for the speedometer. The truck had a factory tach in it if I recall, but I took it out. As for the front wiring harness, I used the wire that went to the distributor to power up the fuse box for the engine harness. Here's a couple of pics.

jomomma

iTrader: (39)

i used to have a 69 c10 camper special. boy, do i wish i had it now. i could haul anything in it with those springs it had! good luck with this.

busta9876

iTrader: (3)

ls1nova71 I almost thought that picture was one I helped out with the wiring harness on. This guy also relocated battery to put the PCM under it.

oteixeira

iTrader: (1)

ls1nova,

I plan on going with aftermarket, electric (no mechanical anymore) all the way. So they should all just be wires sending signals. I hope I can just use pin outs on the computer, but I am not sure. That was my main question I guess.

Orlando

cherryelky305

iTrader: (2)

Far as I know the only gauges you will get through pins on the computer will be the tach, and the speedometer. temp and oil pressure are not outputs from the computer. My experience with a F-body motor at least. Trucks may be different.

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

That is correct for trucks too. If you're using aftermarket guages, you'll have to use the senders that come with them. As far I know, there are no aftermarket guages that can be used with the factory senders (temp and oil). There are pin outs for speedometer in the PCM, but you most likley won't be able to use it, unless you're using a factory instrument cluster (from the truck your engine came from). With aftermarket guages you'll have to tap into the wires coming directly off the speed sensor. At least that was the way my Autometer guages were. Hope this helps, I'm not trying to confuse you!

oteixeira

iTrader: (1)

No this is great info! Now for the scary question. I just paid a bunch of money for this motor. How do you know where to drill and tap for the senders without hitting a spot that will ruin the engine? Did you guys have a diagram that helped you know where to drill?

Orlando

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

I would wait until you get your guages so you know how big and what thread the senders are. The temp sender on aftermarket, and most later model cars, are alot smaller than what came on your truck originally, so you don't know what size to make the hole. If it is small enough, sometimes you can get away with just tapping the head, and not drilling. Just put some grease on the tap to keep the metal shavings from getting in the coolant passages. As for where, there will be a sender in the left head, leave that one alone, the pcm needs it. On the right head, towards the rear there wil be a plug that you can remove, that's what I always use. The oil pressure sender can be put on the fitting above the oil filter by removing it, then drilling the hole through (it's there but not all the way through) and tapping for the sender. Here's a pic. Yours probably won't be all banged up like this one though!

Stu Cool

iTrader: (13)

SOme of the aftermarket gauges are available with metric senders, or you can get an adapter kit from Equus that will probably take care of both the temp and oil pressure senders. You can use the kit to put most temp senders in the passenger side head. And if you have room behind the intake near your firewall, you can pull out the factory oil sender and use an adapter to put your sender there. That's what I did.

Pat

oteixeira

iTrader: (1)

Well,

My engine finally arrived today. Here is a list of what they forgot to bring, as well as a list of what I got that I wasn't expecting:

Missing: Engine cover, gas pedal, module for gas pedal, and fuse box from under the hood.

Got: Fuel lines all the way back to a Siemens box looking thing with a computer connector, overflow tank for radiator, all hoses and belts

Damaged:

TB Computer connector:



And finally, a couple of pics of the whole setup:




I have all call into the yard for all the missing parts, and asked them to replace the throttle body as well.

Orlando

oteixeira

iTrader: (1)

OK, so here is the part, I would venture a guess that it is the fuel regulator. Am I right?



Orlando

busta9876

iTrader: (3)

If that has a 3 pin electrical connector, it looks like a Flex Fuel Sensor.

oteixeira

iTrader: (1)

I just looked it up, and after some searching it IS a flex fuel sensor, and glad they included it cause that puppy is $360 at GM parts counters near you!


Orlando

1987earthquake

iTrader: (9)

I just got my gauges in last week. I ordered Marshall SCX gauges. The temp sender is small. Looks smaller than the hole in head. The speedo can use both signals. They all use stepper motors so really accurate. I got speedo, tach, oil pressure, water temp, and voltmeter. All use led backlighting. I only paid about $260 for all of them. compared to around $550 for autometer. Just my experience.

oteixeira

iTrader: (1)

I went with Dolphin, and paid less then that. The speedo also uses the factory wire (speed sensor) off the harness. I have used the adaptor for the water temp gague, and actually got a plate like this for the oil pressure:



I have the engine in, and the fuel lines are now being plumbed, here it is how it looks now:



Orlando

m8w6r77

i have a 70 c20 camper special. my father got it in 72. he gave it me after i blew the rear in it. going to put in lq4 once i am done with my s10 blazer. i love that truck. been in the family for years.

eagleuh1

What's happening on this build? I just bought a 68 C20 camper special with 327 and th400. All original. Sat for 12 years. Drained old gas, blew out lines, replaced rubber hoses, filter and changed oil. Also shot some Marvel mystery oil in the cylinders over night. Started up after dumping some gas down the carb. Idled pretty good. Gotta decide soon if want to put my 2005 5.3 and 4l60e in or go over the 327 and th400. Anyways, would appriciate some pointers on mounts and the likes. Thanks

LS1MCSS

iTrader: (18)

Let me know if you decide to sell the th400. I might be interested in it.