2001firehawk3

iTrader: (2)

405 rwhp auto car with 3.73 gears
ok 98 WS6 with 1LE springs (stock and verified) busted ash old decarbon now.
strano 35/21 hallow bars
weld in 2 point SFC
edelbrock trailing arms non adj
edelbrock PHR non adj
STB
tunnel mounted ds loop
all other parts are stock
I have new in the package GM strut mounts for the front to use also.

daily driver with some high speed backroad use, 2-3 trips to the drags a summer, 2-3 fun run days (summit point auto-x track)

100% definatly not talking me out of it keeping the stock height !! Not trying to destroy my longtubes on the **** ash pa backroads.

was also thinking of the torque arm (non adj) and the relocation crossmember to tighten up the underside some.

Spit your story and why price is a definate consideration !!! I got about $600.00 to play with. yeas I read a ton on here but it seems everyones combo is a little diffrent.

JD_AMG

Konis without a doubt.
While its a little over the $600 you have, they are well worth it especially if you plan on racing the car at all. You will be wondering why you didn't buy these very first...

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Shocks are what the car needs and what make them work. Koni's are the best. You have other options that cost less. But good shocks are an investment and the biggest single thing you can do to improve the car. Just think about what you read from folks with Koni's..... Yeah, others put shocks on and say "it's better", and they are (mostly because stock is so freakin' poor). I also sell other brands like KYB and Tokico, etc. I run Koni's. I recommend them. And if you read how the others describe the differences vs. their old shocks, and many have had "other" things before the Koni's the difference becomes apparent.

I had a call today that I missed. The voicemail said "all I can say is wow".

I'd be happy to discuss how and why the shocks differ, and explain the differences in feel as best I can, but we have to do that by phone. Bottom line is car has more impact harshness than it should, and less rebound damping (lack of control) than it should and both are shock issues and the biggest bitches most have with the car. You can improve the rebound even with lesser shocks to a degree, but not normally to the area that folks who like to drive want from the car (think BMW M3). And the bigger issue with less expensive shocks is they still don't deal with impact harshness well. Koni's do that much better and are also better built and more durable.

Save you money on the other things to "tighten the underside of the car". That's not the issue, the shocks are the place to start, and not the place to skimp. They aren't cheap. Neither are the other part you put on. Tires cost as much or more, and will wear out in 15k miles.

2001firehawk3

iTrader: (2)

I will call you and order the konis the in the morning. If I could get tires to last 15k I would .......well lets just say thats never happening with this car.

Alien asphalt artist

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Just give me a call, and if you have any questions I'll be happy to do my best to answer them for you.