LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Code 36

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 08-10-2008, 04:20 PM
  #1  
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
 
ElkySS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Houston Tx
Posts: 2,149
Likes: 0
Received 31 Likes on 24 Posts

Default Code 36

my car has a code 36, high resolution pulse failure. i put a new opti on it last week. the ses is on constantly, as soon as you clear it while running it pops again. the car runs fine otherwise any ideas?
Old 08-10-2008, 07:24 PM
  #2  
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
 
ElkySS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Houston Tx
Posts: 2,149
Likes: 0
Received 31 Likes on 24 Posts

Default

anyone?
Old 08-15-2008, 11:29 AM
  #3  
On The Tree
iTrader: (3)
 
ClovisAutoMotion's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Clovis, CA
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

You need to check to see if the purple/white wire is shorted or broken. If you have an Digital multi meter, disconnect the battery, the opti harness connector and the black connector on the Computer. The purple/white high res wire is terminal b20 on the black connecter, take one lead to the ECU connector and the other to the opti side connector. If you don't have continuity then they wire is broken (you may need some paperclips to stick in the terminal side and make sure you're getting contact) If you do have continuity then attach one lead to the negative on the battery and the other to each side of the high res wire ,one at a time. You should NOT have continuity here at all, if you do then the wire is shorted to another in the harness.
If the wire checks out then plug everything back in. Now probe the purple/white high res wire with the red lead, and the black lead still at battery ground. With the Meter set to DC volts start the car, voltage may jump or pulse with the frequency but in general it should be between 1 and 3 volts. If its under .5 volts then the computer is faulty, not sending the high res signal voltage or there is still a short somewhere. If the voltage is over 4 volts at all times then you either got a bad opti, poor connection, or shorted wire. Hope this gives you some direction.
-Scott

Last edited by ClovisAutoMotion; 08-15-2008 at 11:31 AM. Reason: becuz eye cantt speul
Old 08-15-2008, 01:15 PM
  #4  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
 
Fixxer99TA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Melrose, MA
Posts: 1,196
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by ClovisAutoMotion
You need to check to see if the purple/white wire is shorted or broken. If you have an Digital multi meter, disconnect the battery, the opti harness connector and the black connector on the Computer. The purple/white high res wire is terminal b20 on the black connecter, take one lead to the ECU connector and the other to the opti side connector. If you don't have continuity then they wire is broken (you may need some paperclips to stick in the terminal side and make sure you're getting contact) If you do have continuity then attach one lead to the negative on the battery and the other to each side of the high res wire ,one at a time. You should NOT have continuity here at all, if you do then the wire is shorted to another in the harness.
If the wire checks out then plug everything back in. Now probe the purple/white high res wire with the red lead, and the black lead still at battery ground. With the Meter set to DC volts start the car, voltage may jump or pulse with the frequency but in general it should be between 1 and 3 volts. If its under .5 volts then the computer is faulty, not sending the high res signal voltage or there is still a short somewhere. If the voltage is over 4 volts at all times then you either got a bad opti, poor connection, or shorted wire. Hope this gives you some direction.
-Scott

This and, if its not the wire itself that your probing, then its the opti high res signal thats gone. Your going to need a new opti (full unit, not just the cap+rotor like some seem to think...).

If you bought your opti from a local parts store, this could be the reason it died so quickly. If your high res signal is really going, your car would die all the time once it got hot, but it would still restart and run for a few minutes before it died again.

If you keep getting the code and your car never dies, then more than likely its the connector described above.
Old 08-15-2008, 06:05 PM
  #5  
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
 
ElkySS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Houston Tx
Posts: 2,149
Likes: 0
Received 31 Likes on 24 Posts

Default

well thats the thing. it runs fine. takes a while to start, but once it does it runs ok, the light is on anytime the car is running. i tryed checking the connector and it seemed ok.
Old 08-15-2008, 06:11 PM
  #6  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
 
Fixxer99TA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Melrose, MA
Posts: 1,196
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

That could be it just getting weak, and not cutting the car off completely yet (the hard starts). Mine ran great for about 3 weeks before it threw a code and started cutting out, but I did notice hard starting before that.

Then came code 36 and the car cutting out randomly, but only after idling for a little bit.



Quick Reply: Code 36



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:14 PM.