Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

6.0 Recipe

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 09-09-2003, 12:27 AM
  #1  
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
 
GWTFI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Rocky Mountain Region
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default 6.0 Recipe

OK, I've rebuilt several stock LS1's and 1 LS6 for people and now its time for me to go bigger and better.

I've got a complete intake to oil pan 6.0 from a 99 Silverado. And a few other parts here and there I've saved up. So here's what I'm thinking:

6.0 +.030 for 370ci
Stock Rods w/ ARP bolts
Wiseco forged 4.030 pistons (flattops)
Stock 1.7 Rockers
Stock 5.7 2000 LS1 Crank
Stock 2002 LS6 Cam
Stock 2002 LS6 valve springs
Stock 2002 LS6 Pushrods
Comp R lifters
ARP headbolts
LS6 Intake
Set of 2001 5.7 LS1 heads ported & flowed by me (2.00/1.55 because of 5800+ altitude in Denver to maintain velocity)
New double roller timing chain
New oil pump

I think this would be a solid 420fwhp engine that would have docile manners until WOT. I'd like honest input, but bear in mind, manners, longevity and drivability are paramount, not low ET's. Thoughts?

Old 09-09-2003, 01:40 AM
  #2  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
 
Brains's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Katy, TX
Posts: 12,754
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Re: 6.0 Recipe

For what you're doing, I personally wouldn't take the weight hit of the iron block. There's no reliability boost from going iron in such a mild package. The forged pistons are IMHO pointless if you don't need their strength -- a quality hypereutectic piston would be a better choice. Less/no piston slap on startup, better emissions, etc. To compensate for your higher altitude, I'd run a 1/2 to full point higher compression ratio than an equiv. motor built for sea level. The rest of your setup looks great
Old 09-09-2003, 04:21 AM
  #3  
Launching!
iTrader: (7)
 
DETROIT_AREA_00_SS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: South Florida
Posts: 281
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default Re: 6.0 Recipe

Seems like a lot of work for a VERY mild motor, especially the cam choice. IMO a waste of an iron block.
Old 09-09-2003, 07:46 AM
  #4  
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
 
GWTFI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Rocky Mountain Region
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Re: 6.0 Recipe

For what you're doing, I personally wouldn't take the weight hit of the iron block. There's no reliability boost from going iron in such a mild package. The forged pistons are IMHO pointless if you don't need their strength -- a quality hypereutectic piston would be a better choice.
Well, I have been known to hit the spray on occasion. Who makes overbore Hyperutectics for the 6.0's? I have found nadas other than forged out there.

To compensate for your higher altitude, I'd run a 1/2 to full point higher compression ratio than an equiv. motor built for sea level. The rest of your setup looks great
Well, is there a better cam to use that under .600 lift tat you might recommmend? I realize that the LS6 is only .550ish and mild at that, but it was cheap too.

Whats a good step up cam wise with the LS6 springs?
Old 09-09-2003, 09:45 AM
  #5  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (9)
 
Vents's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Texas, it's like your state, but better.
Posts: 2,085
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default Re: 6.0 Recipe

For what you're doing, I personally wouldn't take the weight hit of the iron block. There's no reliability boost from going iron in such a mild package. The forged pistons are IMHO pointless if you don't need their strength -- a quality hypereutectic piston would be a better choice. Less/no piston slap on startup, better emissions, etc. To compensate for your higher altitude, I'd run a 1/2 to full point higher compression ratio than an equiv. motor built for sea level. The rest of your setup looks great
i noticed no diffrence in driveability, handling, or otherwise other than performance from my iron motor. the weight gain is over-rated. and it would even out simply by removing the washer fluid for track passes, or mooving the battery to the back. 6-7-8-9 second cars have been employing iron blocks since the beginning of hotrodding, and all of a sudden it's a bad idea.

i dont see how it's physically possible that piston material choice could solely reduce or increase emissions quality. the only known avaliable replacement hyper piston i've seen is the factory escalade flat-top and that's not what i'd consider a quality piece, and would be prone to piston slap, and is also very brittle. not a fan of those. diamond has what you want, if you want to spray.

i do think that my setup is a bit more wild than your reposed plan, and it's got very good manners now. once you get the bugs worked out of it all, it's a very streetable combo, and i almost wish that i'd have thrown in some more compression, and i still drive my car every day. you can et with n20. build reliability first.
Old 09-09-2003, 09:49 PM
  #6  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
 
99 Black Bird T/A's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 8,583
Received 1,432 Likes on 992 Posts

Default Re: 6.0 Recipe

I've been thinking about an iron 6.0 for my 3rd Gen RS.

6.0 +.030 for 370ci
Stock Rods w/ ARP bolts
Wiseco forged 4.030 pistons (flattops)
Stock 1.7 Rockers
Stock 5.7 2000 LS1 Crank


I think a junkyard or production surplus 6.0 would offer acceptable relability if your not going to spray or only occassional spray ~100 shot. This would cost less overall and leave $$$ for other stuff...aftermarket rockers etc. I'd want 01+ rod bolts or ARP rod bolts.



Stock 2002 LS6 Cam
Stock 2002 LS6 valve springs
Stock 2002 LS6 Pushrods
Comp R lifters
ARP headbolts


No need for Comp R lifters with an LS6 cam and LS6 springs. They are overkill in the extreme as the stock lifters are good for bigger cams and higher spring pressures. I'd to stock on the lifters with LS6 cam selection. I'd stay with stock lifters unless your going with a 230+ XE-R cam and probably needs ~400 lbs of spring pressure. Likewise ARP head bolts are overkill with this mild set up unless your spraying. I would stay stock bolts or use ARP studs. If you wanted to switch heads later the studs would be nice. I'd favor different springs & stiffened push rods matched to a different cam and decked 6.0 heads. I'd go at least ~227 maybe ~232 duration on the cam. The extra cubes will help soak up the cam. I have a 224 in my 346 and could go bigger and be happy. If you go with home ported heads, I'd still favor a bigger cam than 02 LS6


LS6 Intake
Set of 2001 5.7 LS1 heads ported & flowed by me (2.00/1.55 because of 5800+ altitude in Denver to maintain velocity)


Depending on when you do this the LSX might be a better intake and with the money saved with the other parts mentioned wouldn't really make the set up more expensive. I would want ported 6.0 heads deck to get the compression you want with the 4 inch bore. They have the best mid-lift flow etc. This would require new push rods most as most for sure.


New double roller timing chain
New oil pump


If you get an over production engine it would have a new oil pump and should be decent. A good aftermarket pump with the flash cleaned up might be worth thinking about but isn't absolutely necessary. I agree the 2x Roller is a good idea.

Good luck




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:17 AM.