95PGTTech

iTrader: (1)

I know this is a painful subject and I've searched and found the very limited threads on the subject.

I have a Viper spec T56 with a 26 spline input shaft conversion ready for my Cobra now. I'd like to put it behind my LS1 swap but keep my cable clutch. As soon as you buy yourself a nice metal quadrant and adjustable firewall click, it's easy as pie...open the hood and adjust with two fingers, no tools needed. After seeing some hydraulic horror stories on here, I'd really like to stay with this system.

So why can't I:

Aftermarket SFI bellhousing (most have a huge opening already for the slave/bleeder - open it up farther, or units like the McLeod nightmare fitment issue unit

http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...html?item=1117

looks like it's wide enough for the clutch fork anyhow.



1. Aftermarket SFI bellhousing
2. LS1 flywheel
3. twin disk clutch for 26 spline input shaft
4. 03-04 Cobra clutch fork
5. 03-04 Cobra throw out (release) bearing
6. adjustable pivot ball
7. my existing adjustable cable, fiore quadrant, fiore micro click adjuster, LDC freeplay mod


And call it a day?

FYI, the clutch fork is a 1996-1998, 2003-2004 Cobra part - the T45 and T56 use the same fork, but for the sake of simplicity...




Can anyone see any issues?
I have contacted the following companies about this: McLeod, Quick Time, and Lakewood. Any one I'm missing?

Things to look out for:
1. Is there enough physical room to fit the clutch fork in the bellhousing opening, or is there enough material there to go at it with my cutter?
2. Is there a provision for the adjustable pivot ball to mount to? If not, I'm going to have to weld a threaded nut onto the bellhousing...again, annoying, but not a dealbreaker. I'm putting a f'ing LS1 in a Cobra, I can deal with having to do some off the wall stuff.
3. Is there enough physical room outside the transmission on the driver side to have space for the clutch fork, the linkage coming down from the firewall, and the dust shield? Driver side header?
4. Going to have to make a dust shield. Oh well. Cry about it.

95PGTTech

iTrader: (1)

10 views and not a comment?

Maybe what I need to do is pick up a LS1 T56 stock bellhousing. Someone on here should have one from upgrading to the McLeod or similar unit.

And physically put the Cobra bellhousing and the LS1 bellhousing next to each other and see what the differences are. If I can hack a hole in the LS1 bellhousing to physically get enough room for the clutch fork, I can attempt to slip the TOB onto the input shaft and the clutch fork. Then it is just a matter of mounting a nut for the pivot ball to thread into.

Then buy an aftermarket LS1 bellhousing and make the same modifications. Hell, if I'm lucky, one of those three aftermarket bellhousings have a provision for the pivot ball. My history of hot rodding does not have much luck in it though.

Does anyone know how much freeplay there should be between the TOB and the PP fingers to ensure full/proper release after the clutch wears, or is that specification left up to the clutch/pressure plate manufacturer? I know in the T56 I was supposed to look for about .100"

dotstereo

I have nothing to add to this discussion, but I will be watching this thread closely.

95PGTTech

iTrader: (1)

Every thread I read has zero progress in it but promises that if someone could figure out the solution to this they would be a rich man.

I'm not saying I'm going to be the savior of F-bodies, but if I could make this work using my stock 98 Cobra pedal/firewall/cable setup, perhaps someone else could do the other half of the work and make what I accomplish work on the F body.

SOM68SS

iTrader: (3)

I'm using cable setup with a TKO only issue I am working on now is fabbing up a cable mounting bracket to attach to the bellhousing.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...&highlight=fox

95PGTTech

iTrader: (1)

For those that don't want to search the thread...

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....26&postcount=4

Thanks, that info on welding the nut helped out a lot but now at least I know it is possible and fairly easy to accomplish. An adjustable pivot ball will probably take away all my worrying about preload and the fingers and TOB and what not.

On the outside of my T45, the cable mounting bracket is nothing more than a hole that the cable passes through. There is a shoulder on the cable that stops you from pulling it forward too far, then an E clip secures it on the other side.

Should be extremely simple to do as you did and take a stock bellhousing, measure it, and make something on the aftermarket bellhousing.

Mustang Z06

I'm doing this too