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charging problem

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Old 12-31-2013, 04:55 PM
  #41  
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my GXP is having the same issue, replaced the battery, still did it, only comes on once in a while at random, at night if i roll my windows up or down i notice my headlights slightly dim, i also noticed if my rpms are at idle, my lights are slightly dim, then as soon as i increase the rpms, you can immediately notice the headlights get brighter, also my DIC randomly displays service vehilce soon with no code at random, sometimes right after each other and even sometimes not at all

what would y'all recommend me checking? i've checked the battery from post to post and only once did it show a drop in voltage, all other times it was fine...
Old 01-02-2014, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Ill_Born_ss


You can get the sensor (#5 above) at your GM dealer (I would recommend calling a dealer with your VIN# and getting the latest P/N for your application FIRST)

OR
http://www.rockauto.com/ P/N search 5S6706

ALSO you should remove and clean and protect (die-electric grease) all the GROUNDS.

Here is some help: http://www.gmls4.com/index.php?topic=1412.0
So I contacted a dealership today with my VIN number. There are indeed two different part numbers for this current sensor. The only way to find out which one you need is to measure the connector that plugs into the current sensor.

The center pin (pin B - use the black prong of your multimeter here) is your low reference/ground while the one of the left (pin C - use the red prong of your multimeter here), with the connector tab/thumb switch upright, is the current sensor voltage. You should read either 10V or 5V.

The part numbers for the different voltages is as follows:

5V: P/N 13505369

10V: P/N 10306471

Unfortunately, Amazon couples them together in the same listing. The part in the picture in Amazon's listing is the 5V one.

Amazon.com: 2006-12 GMC CHEVY BUICK CADILLAC BATTERY CURRENT SENSOR 13505369 10306471: Automotive Amazon.com: 2006-12 GMC CHEVY BUICK CADILLAC BATTERY CURRENT SENSOR 13505369 10306471: Automotive


The one that Ill_Born_ss linked to (RockAuto), based off of the part number printed on the part, is the 10V one.
Old 01-02-2014, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Ill_Born_ss
Glad to hear you got the sensor changed. You have made the repair. As for the "service vehicle soon" light yes you need to find a scanner/reader that can show all modules to clear/reset the history/ pending codes held within the units. Your ABS module will at least be holding a low voltage code and your BCM will be holding all your low voltage and battery disconnects history. You may even be experiencing no low cooling fans due to the BCM calling on electrical load shedding (sets it to ACTIVE) when it sees low voltage. A simple CODE clearing or Battery Disconnect does not remove this info from other modules.

If you drop by your dealer and ask if they can read and clear all codes for you, they may do it! Just say I want to see what history there is and clear it prior to bringing it in for troubleshooting/repair. Want to see if the symptoms re-appear.

Be sure your battery is fully charged, I recommend a trickle charger for at least 12-24 hours.
Here is something you can try as it has been rumoured to me that sometimes they cannot clear the BCM or reprogram it due to some gremlin in the system caused by the grounds. ( if a ground other than the main battery ground is disconnected while the main battery ground is hooked up it will cause the BCM to search for an alternate ground)

Here is what to do:

With the doors closed and e-brake set

Turn off ignition and remove the key

Remove the fuses that power up the following modules/components for a min. of 2 minutes

1-BCM
2-EBCM
3-ECM
4-IS LPS (located in the left IP fusebox)
5-TCM

Now open and close the drivers door. Allow enough time for the RAP (retained accessory power) to turn off.

Now re-install the fuses then start the car. This may clear your light but the info is more for you incase the dealer cannot get into the BCM to clear/re-program.
Could you please be a little bit clearer about the location of these fuses?

Could you provide the printed names as displayed on the underside of the fuse box cover? Example: "ECM/TCM" and "WSW/RVC"

I say this because there are three "ECM" related fuses and I couldn't find the BCM and EBCM fuses. I'm also not too sure about the "IS LPS" fuse. Is it related to the interior lamps?
Old 01-03-2014, 07:16 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by GXP25
Could you please be a little bit clearer about the location of these fuses? For this I only gave a general description as the 05 has one system and the 06 is different and again the 07 differs from both of those.

Could you provide the printed names as displayed on the underside of the fuse box cover? Example: "ECM/TCM" and "WSW/RVC" For your 2006 you can download a free manual here: http://www.gm.ca/media/owners/manual...nual_en_CA.pdf
As for which fuses you need to pull, start on page 5-114, #15,16,17,23,ABS,BCM/TCM,ETC/ECM


I say this because there are three "ECM" related fuses and I couldn't find the BCM and EBCM fuses. I'm also not too sure about the "IS LPS" fuse. Is it related to the interior lamps?
The IS LPS is not in all units, as mentioned it was/is general info but if there is a requirement for a reflash the techie would know what to do.

Best of luck
Old 01-03-2014, 01:45 PM
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Apparently the 5V part is the superseded part so I just ordered it and we'll see.

I'll try to reset everything after I install the sensor. The "service vehicle soon" message is related to this and maybe any HID ballasts since they're battery related.

My friend bought a Bluetooth ODBII scanner for his phone and was able to find the following code: B1390

Found some information in the service manual:

DTC B1390: Device Voltage Reference Input Circuit

Circuit/System Description

The body control module (BCM) has an internal precision battery voltage sensor connected to dedicated battery positive voltage from terminal C1-51 and dedicated ground terminal C1-19. The BCM then compares the sensors voltage to the battery positive voltage from terminal C1-52. DTC B 1390 will set if these voltages are different by greater than 2 volts.

Conditions for Running the DTC

This DTC will run only if the BCM has power and ground. This DTC will execute regardless of the source voltage.

Conditions for Setting the DTC

This code shall be set when the 2 battery positive voltages differ by 2 volts or greater for more than 10 seconds.

Action Taken When the DTC Sets

All writes to the electrically erasable programmable read only memory (EEPROM) will be suspended. All loss of communication and low/high voltage DTC codes are suspended.

Conditions for Clearing the DTC

• A current DTC clears when the malfunction is no longer present.
• A history DTC clears when the module ignition cycle counter reaches the reset threshold, without a repeat of the malfunction.

Circuit/System Testing

Ignition OFF, disconnect the C-1 harness connector at the BCM.
Verify that there is less than a 2 volt difference between the battery positive voltage circuit terminal C1-51 and the ground circuit terminal C1-19, and between the battery positive voltage circuit terminal C1-52 and the ground circuit terminal C1-17.
⇒ If greater than the specified range, test the voltage circuits for a short to ground or open/high resistance, and the ground circuits for open/high resistance.
If the circuits test normal, replace the BCM.
Except per Ill_Born_ss, the BCM shouldn't be replaced.
Old 01-03-2014, 02:15 PM
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This car hates me, getting a entering battery saver mode... Charging fine
Old 01-15-2014, 08:19 AM
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put the old sensor back on now its sitting at 14.4 volt and no body code.

so i guess i got a bad sensor.


edit
the one i got is
5V: P/N 13505369

Last edited by blkchevyz; 01-15-2014 at 02:36 PM.
Old 01-21-2014, 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Ill_Born_ss
The sensor operates on a pulse width and with each pulse, it in turn sends a given voltage to both the BCM/TCM and they tell everything what to do and how to react to the given conditions.

As sensors get old, contaminated or what not they either slow down or send incorrect data/voltage to the computers. Now some of these cars had an improper P/N installed when built and they are/were so close in the required voltage/info that the owners got some use out of them prior to failure. That is why I recommended you call a dealer with your VIN. and they can tell you the current P/N and you can compare it with the one installed on your car.

As far a using a scanner, yes if you can see the actual pluse width voltage and then compare it to the required #`s for your car. It is something like .0- .03 or .2- .5 volts (examples only not the actual for your system) That I would have to look up to know for sure. Again maybe your dealer could tell you for sure.
Will a faulty BCM make this problem occur since the info is conveyed via The BCM??? My car dipped from 12 to 10 volts on the way to work this morning then on the way home it went from 10 down to 7. I know my BCM is bad but it intermittently malfunctions. Today all of my idiot lights were coming on and going of and the car was in constant "Charging System Failure" all the way home.
Old 02-03-2014, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by TML529
Will a faulty BCM make this problem occur since the info is conveyed via The BCM??? My car dipped from 12 to 10 volts on the way to work this morning then on the way home it went from 10 down to 7. I know my BCM is bad but it intermittently malfunctions. Today all of my idiot lights were coming on and going of and the car was in constant "Charging System Failure" all the way home.
I've had that "Charging System Failure" light come on like 3-4 months ago. It happened for a few days then didn't come back.

I'd start with the sensor and go from there.



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