new to me monte ss, motor noise
04-06-2015, 09:20 PM
#21
I refuse to use seafoam in my oil, i will use it occasionally to use the vacuum hose method but that iis unrelated to your issue. what type of oil and filter are you using and have you perhaps tried cleaning out your last chance filter?
I only had minor lifter tick when i used royal purple back in the day. I only use mobil 1 now 0w 30 for the cold and sometimes 5w30 but primarliy use 0w 40 euro formula now with great results.
I only had minor lifter tick when i used royal purple back in the day. I only use mobil 1 now 0w 30 for the cold and sometimes 5w30 but primarliy use 0w 40 euro formula now with great results.
04-06-2015, 09:25 PM
#22
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I refuse to use seafoam in my oil, i will use it occasionally to use the vacuum hose method but that iis unrelated to your issue. what type of oil and filter are you using and have you perhaps tried cleaning out your last chance filter?
I only had minor lifter tick when i used royal purple back in the day. I only use mobil 1 now 0w 30 for the cold and sometimes 5w30 but primarliy use 0w 40 euro formula now with great results.
I only had minor lifter tick when i used royal purple back in the day. I only use mobil 1 now 0w 30 for the cold and sometimes 5w30 but primarliy use 0w 40 euro formula now with great results.
Last edited by SteveCZ28; 04-06-2015 at 09:45 PM.
04-06-2015, 10:52 PM
#23
The last chance filter is under the oil pressure sense located where the intake manifold "throat" is. Cleaning it certainly can't hurt anything but may not help your situation.
04-06-2015, 11:27 PM
#25
Try the rotella T6, trust me, ive seen it quiet down many of noisy engines, and its not too thick for winter use either. It's the only API SM rated oil still left on the shelf, and its about 21.50 a gallon at walmart, full synthetic.
04-06-2015, 11:48 PM
#31
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can u go straight to full synthetic from conventional oil?i thought u had to go semi synthetic for a couple of changes then go full synthetic?or is this just old wives tail?
04-06-2015, 11:55 PM
#35
04-07-2015, 06:35 AM
#36
For your tranny line if it is the end leaking just swap the o`ring (fuel nozzle o`rings work), if it is the line itself it would have to be replaced. (the inner of the double hose fails)
As for the returning tick... well you did not follow the instructions. For now you can add 1 ounce of seafoam for every quart of oil in the crankcase and see... it will relieve the ticking (add the rest of the can to your fuel tank) You already proved it relieved the tick, it takes a long time to clean the residue from inside your engine and the thicker oil does not assist with the situation. Remember there are super fine screens inside the upper oiling system that restrict normally and by going with a higher viscosity oil it only makes it more difficult.
As for the returning tick... well you did not follow the instructions. For now you can add 1 ounce of seafoam for every quart of oil in the crankcase and see... it will relieve the ticking (add the rest of the can to your fuel tank) You already proved it relieved the tick, it takes a long time to clean the residue from inside your engine and the thicker oil does not assist with the situation. Remember there are super fine screens inside the upper oiling system that restrict normally and by going with a higher viscosity oil it only makes it more difficult.
Last edited by Ill_Born_ss; 04-07-2015 at 06:41 AM.
04-07-2015, 07:07 AM
#37
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For your tranny line if it is the end leaking just swap the o`ring (fuel nozzle o`rings work), if it is the line itself it would have to be replaced. (the inner of the double hose fails)
As for the returning tick... well you did not follow the instructions. For now you can add 1 ounce of seafoam for every quart of oil in the crankcase and see... it will relieve the ticking (add the rest of the can to your fuel tank) You already proved it relieved the tick, it takes a long time to clean the residue from inside your engine and the thicker oil does not assist with the situation. Remember there are super fine screens inside the upper oiling system that restrict normally and by going with a higher viscosity oil it only makes it more difficult.
As for the returning tick... well you did not follow the instructions. For now you can add 1 ounce of seafoam for every quart of oil in the crankcase and see... it will relieve the ticking (add the rest of the can to your fuel tank) You already proved it relieved the tick, it takes a long time to clean the residue from inside your engine and the thicker oil does not assist with the situation. Remember there are super fine screens inside the upper oiling system that restrict normally and by going with a higher viscosity oil it only makes it more difficult.
i didnt run the full 1k miles because the oil was already thin, and adding the seafoam seemed to make it thinner. i did get about 550 miles on the seafoam/oil solution. and added seafoam to a full tank of gas last week. at about 1/4 tank now with that. im not sure if the tick was relieved by the sea foam or not, or whether it was because the temps were in the 60's when i started it those few tick free times.
04-07-2015, 09:12 AM
#38
10w 30 is still not recommended . Use the 5w30 remember what's important is startup and initial oil flow. 5w30 will get through the system way faster than 10w30 can.
As far as brands, you can go whatever way you want after going through Rotella, royal purple ,castrol I've noticed that my calculated oil Temps even though that's a not a exact number based off the exact oil temp. Remains the lowest at Mobil 1. I also regularly look at Blackstone lab reports from ls motors like ours to see how they hold up. The differences are minimal sometimes but enough fkr me to stick with Mobil 1
As far as brands, you can go whatever way you want after going through Rotella, royal purple ,castrol I've noticed that my calculated oil Temps even though that's a not a exact number based off the exact oil temp. Remains the lowest at Mobil 1. I also regularly look at Blackstone lab reports from ls motors like ours to see how they hold up. The differences are minimal sometimes but enough fkr me to stick with Mobil 1
04-07-2015, 03:19 PM
#39
I second the Mobil 1, been using since day one. I run 5w30 with a Mobil 1 M1-113 filter . I have tried the advanced fuel economy Mobil 1, I think it was 0w20 or 0w30. I didn't notice a difference in fuel economy and it was a little too thin for my liking. If you are changing your own oil you are already saving money, get the best oil and filter possible that you can afford. Last month Advance Auto had it on sale as well. It was 30 for the jug and filter for the Mobil 1and there was a 5 dollar rebate. I usually buy Mobil 1 at Wal-Mart when it goes for under 25 for the jug then I pick up a few as you need 6 qts.
Last edited by rottonj; 04-07-2015 at 03:43 PM. Reason: fixed capacity
04-07-2015, 08:22 PM
#40
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10w 30 is still not recommended . Use the 5w30 remember what's important is startup and initial oil flow. 5w30 will get through the system way faster than 10w30 can.
As far as brands, you can go whatever way you want after going through Rotella, royal purple ,castrol I've noticed that my calculated oil Temps even though that's a not a exact number based off the exact oil temp. Remains the lowest at Mobil 1. I also regularly look at Blackstone lab reports from ls motors like ours to see how they hold up. The differences are minimal sometimes but enough fkr me to stick with Mobil 1
As far as brands, you can go whatever way you want after going through Rotella, royal purple ,castrol I've noticed that my calculated oil Temps even though that's a not a exact number based off the exact oil temp. Remains the lowest at Mobil 1. I also regularly look at Blackstone lab reports from ls motors like ours to see how they hold up. The differences are minimal sometimes but enough fkr me to stick with Mobil 1
im not that impressed with mobile 1. i ran it a few changes in my 99 z28. i had a magnetic drain plug in it, and every oil change i had a considerable amount of what i called "silver slurry" or metal on the magnet. switched to castrol syntec full synthetic, and it redueced the amount of metal on the magnet a considerable amount.