new to me monte ss, motor noise
04-17-2015, 10:51 AM
#82
04-17-2015, 11:03 AM
#84
Yes, that`s it. ( and a new oil filter, you can re-use the removed one but...messy)
these 3 are for the 05-06, the 07+ do not require the 1 extra one as it is in the oil filter itself for the newer models
( supposed to be a better idea but that leaves it up to the aftermarket to get it correct)
these 3 are for the 05-06, the 07+ do not require the 1 extra one as it is in the oil filter itself for the newer models
( supposed to be a better idea but that leaves it up to the aftermarket to get it correct)
04-17-2015, 11:17 AM
#86
The 05-06 take a different part #oil filter than any 07+ LS4 due to the point that the 05-06 model engine have the check valve built into the engine. The 07+ models do not have this one check valve inside the block for that part of the system, it is important not to put the wrong filter on the wrong engine as for 1 it would cause a double check valve or no check valve at all. Causing full filter by pass or full back flow upon shutdown.
04-17-2015, 11:58 AM
#87
The 05-06 take a different part #oil filter than any 07+ LS4 due to the point that the 05-06 model engine have the check valve built into the engine. The 07+ models do not have this one check valve inside the block for that part of the system, it is important not to put the wrong filter on the wrong engine as for 1 it would cause a double check valve or no check valve at all. Causing full filter by pass or full back flow upon shutdown.
04-18-2015, 04:26 AM
#89
Your pitch about the thread pitch being different is incorrect...
I checked the Fram filters and the Mobil 1 filters and the OE, they all have the same thread. In fact I called my GM parts guy and both P#`s on the engines are the same also.
I checked the Fram filters and the Mobil 1 filters and the OE, they all have the same thread. In fact I called my GM parts guy and both P#`s on the engines are the same also.
04-18-2015, 08:20 PM
#92
TECH Fanatic
04-19-2015, 10:39 AM
#94
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I got my intune yesterday. It has a option to log oil pressure. So I started the car watching for low pressure on startup. It says its making 48-50% on cold start. I don't know how much psi those percentages calculate out to. But I think with that percentage it makes me feel better about the car not having a lot lower pressure on start up. So I'm still gonna cross my fingers for the parts I ordered Friday help with my current problem with the ticking
04-19-2015, 11:14 AM
#95
I got my intune yesterday. It has a option to log oil pressure. So I started the car watching for low pressure on startup. It says its making 48-50% on cold start. I don't know how much psi those percentages calculate out to. But I think with that percentage it makes me feel better about the car not having a lot lower pressure on start up. So I'm still gonna cross my fingers for the parts I ordered Friday help with my current problem with the ticking
At warm idle I'm logging 58psi
04-20-2015, 09:31 PM
#96
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i tried changing stuff in the intune. vehicle speed is in km/h, temps are in celsius. and pressures are in percentages. and i went thru all the settings in it and cant change any of them. i keep getting a "this feature is not yet supported" message.
i threw in the diablo tune without dod, as well as firm shift tune. i dont feel any difference at all, except the tranny is a little firmer on shift. but i cant feel anything performance wise. but now the car doesnt jerk around when going from 8cyl to 4, which is nice
also, gm called. parts showed up today. ill pick them up in the morning, bad part is i dont get a day off work till next monday.
04-22-2015, 12:43 PM
#97
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OK, ran into a big road block. Got some time to work on the car this morning. Removed the oil filter. Found out I needed a 13mm Allen head/wrench to take the adaptor out. Spent $15 on that one socket alone. Pulled the adaptor out and I was expecting that check valve to fall out as it looked like the adaptor was holding it in. Nope these check valves are pressed in. After wiggling it back and forth with a screw driver I got this one out. Stuck a screw driver into the valve and it seems to work. But hard telling if my wedging it out helped it. So I pressed the new valve back in. But the adaptor back on. Then went on to the other check valve that's in the bypass. Got the plate off. And that's as far as I can get. I'm assuming this one is pressed in as well. But the bad part is its sitting about an inch deep in its housing. So I have absolutely no way off getting it out. I hope I don't have to drop the oil pan after all to get to it from inside the pan to wedge it out as well. Do you guys have any tips or tricks for this? I just put it back together and parked the car back outside. So if I do figure out how to get this last check valve out I'll need another gasket. But those are cheap.
04-23-2015, 11:54 PM
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thinking out loud. ls4 differences between years im just thinking out loud here. ive been having problems with my 06 monte ss, with what seems like really bad lifter tick. im running out of options with it. i can tear it down and hopefully fix the lifters. but a member on here mentioned it may only temporarily solve my problems.
so im just broadening my horizons a tad. i found a junk yard motor with 44k on it. they want a reasonable price for it, and its fairly local to me. bad part is it has a cracked oil pan. this motor is coming out of a 05 grand prix gxp.
i got on gmpartsdirect. looked at oil pans. i looked at a 05 oil pan, which appears to be a 1 year only pan. then i looked at a 06 pan( to see if i could use my curret pan), and it says it fits 06 and 07. on my other thread about my problems with my current motor, someone mentioned that my 06 has check valves in the pan, and oil filter housing, and the 07 doesnt have these. so why does it say the 06 and 07 can use the same pan? or is it possible to run a 07 pan on a 06 or 05, and get rid of these check valves? or does the 05 pan fit a 06, and not 07? im just confused here is all. or could i run my current 06 pan on the 05 motor? if so, id still be worried about the check valves in this pan. i was able to replace 1 check valve near the oil filter, but there is another in a bypass plate that i wasnt able to replace. who knows if i fix this valve if my current motor will run the way its supposed to or not. but where it is currently, i cannot fix it while in the car. i would have to drop the pan and hope i can get the valve out as its pressed in
also, if i did purchase this 05 motor, will it go into my car and run correctly? ive seen problems running a 07 motor in a 06, as the reluctor gears are different? but i havent seen anything about the 05 into a 06.
i thought about tearing down my curent motor and rebuilding, but cost is an issue, and then i dont know how much damage if any is already done to current motor with what sounds like dry starts.
i guess any infrmation would be helpful for me. buying this 05 motor sounds like the easier option for me at this point.
so im just broadening my horizons a tad. i found a junk yard motor with 44k on it. they want a reasonable price for it, and its fairly local to me. bad part is it has a cracked oil pan. this motor is coming out of a 05 grand prix gxp.
i got on gmpartsdirect. looked at oil pans. i looked at a 05 oil pan, which appears to be a 1 year only pan. then i looked at a 06 pan( to see if i could use my curret pan), and it says it fits 06 and 07. on my other thread about my problems with my current motor, someone mentioned that my 06 has check valves in the pan, and oil filter housing, and the 07 doesnt have these. so why does it say the 06 and 07 can use the same pan? or is it possible to run a 07 pan on a 06 or 05, and get rid of these check valves? or does the 05 pan fit a 06, and not 07? im just confused here is all. or could i run my current 06 pan on the 05 motor? if so, id still be worried about the check valves in this pan. i was able to replace 1 check valve near the oil filter, but there is another in a bypass plate that i wasnt able to replace. who knows if i fix this valve if my current motor will run the way its supposed to or not. but where it is currently, i cannot fix it while in the car. i would have to drop the pan and hope i can get the valve out as its pressed in
also, if i did purchase this 05 motor, will it go into my car and run correctly? ive seen problems running a 07 motor in a 06, as the reluctor gears are different? but i havent seen anything about the 05 into a 06.
i thought about tearing down my curent motor and rebuilding, but cost is an issue, and then i dont know how much damage if any is already done to current motor with what sounds like dry starts.
i guess any infrmation would be helpful for me. buying this 05 motor sounds like the easier option for me at this point.
04-24-2015, 05:08 AM
#99
im just thinking out loud here. ive been having problems with my 06 monte ss, with what seems like really bad lifter tick.Here you have gone thru the process that proved there is nothing broken, you put in thicker (cold) oil and the tick is hit or miss. I recommended that you add Seafoam to the new oil at a rate of 1oz per quart to see if it continued to relieve the condition but I guess you did not. Once the engine is warm the noise goes away so again this proves that nothing is broken.... worn maybe! it maybe as simple as the pin in 1 lifter (dod) may be unlocking as the oil pressure drops on shutdown. im running out of options with it. i can tear it down and hopefully fix the lifters. but a member on here mentioned it may only temporarily solve my problems.Here I will try to explain, the early motors mostly came with the Eaton Dod system. You can easily tell as the word Eaton is embossed on the corner of the VLOM tray near the brake booster. This system seemed to have the most problems. The other option was the Delphi system, all the parts are interchangeable thru all years for this system. As I mentioned the Delphi lifters have moved to their 3rd gen and seem to be better. So this is where I stated it may only be temp. as the parts themselves seem to be un-dependable
so im just broadening my horizons a tad. i found a junk yard motor with 44k on it. they want a reasonable price for it, and its fairly local to me. bad part is it has a cracked oil pan. this motor is coming out of a 05 grand prix gxp.This engine may also have the Eaton lifters and could be a crap-shoot already or in the near future.
i got on gmpartsdirect. looked at oil pans. i looked at a 05 oil pan, which appears to be a 1 year only pan. then i looked at a 06 pan( to see if i could use my curret pan), and it says it fits 06 and 07.Yes the 05 and 06 pans are the same, check valves and all. Going this route of your pan on the lets say new motor will work and in doing so will also allow you to install the updated pan gasket which has a little oil deflector built into it that helps prevent oil spray into the bores causing coking of the DoD cylinder rings on my other thread about my problems with my current motor, someone mentioned that my 06 has check valves in the pan, and oil filter housing, and the 07 doesnt have these.The 07+ only has the one behind/ inside the boss... the one under the oil filter fitting has been eliminated in that position as it is now located inside the oil filter itself so why does it say the 06 and 07 can use the same pan? or is it possible to run a 07 pan on a 06 or 05, and get rid of these check valves?Again yes you can use the 07 pan and it would also retain the 1 check valve for the DoD oil pressure relief but you would have to use the new oil filter for the 07+ model or does the 05 pan fit a 06, and not 07? im just confused here is all. or could i run my current 06 pan on the 05 motor? if so, id still be worried about the check valves in this pan. i was able to replace 1 check valve near the oil filter, but there is another in a bypass plate that i wasnt able to replace.For this , if you look at your new OPR check valve you will seethe little plunger that you can push in, I just thread a coarse thread bolt in there 1/8"-1/4" and then use 2 scrapers/putty knives one on either side of the bolt head and pry gently,pulling the check valve out evenly who knows if i fix this valve if my current motor will run the way its supposed to or not. but where it is currently, i cannot fix it while in the car. i would have to drop the pan and hope i can get the valve out as its pressed in
also, if i did purchase this 05 motor, will it go into my car and run correctly?Yes the 05-06 share all the same sensors and computers ive seen problems running a 07 motor in a 06, as the reluctor gears are different? but i havent seen anything about the 05 into a 06.
i thought about tearing down my curent motor and rebuilding, but cost is an issue, and then i dont know how much damage if any is already done to current motor with what sounds like dry starts.It is not so much dry starts as it is the pins to lock the DoD lifters do not slide out upon startup causing the DoD portion to be free with no oil pressure in this area at the time... oil is still there but no pressure as the DoD solenoids will/ do not function during this time. So if this is what is happening sometimes you start your car and clack, clack... but it is louder and lasts longer than the click , click of the lower lifters priming themselves or slowly priming themselves because the OPR valve is open or leaking.
i guess any infrmation would be helpful for me. buying this 05 motor sounds like the easier option for me at this point.
so im just broadening my horizons a tad. i found a junk yard motor with 44k on it. they want a reasonable price for it, and its fairly local to me. bad part is it has a cracked oil pan. this motor is coming out of a 05 grand prix gxp.This engine may also have the Eaton lifters and could be a crap-shoot already or in the near future.
i got on gmpartsdirect. looked at oil pans. i looked at a 05 oil pan, which appears to be a 1 year only pan. then i looked at a 06 pan( to see if i could use my curret pan), and it says it fits 06 and 07.Yes the 05 and 06 pans are the same, check valves and all. Going this route of your pan on the lets say new motor will work and in doing so will also allow you to install the updated pan gasket which has a little oil deflector built into it that helps prevent oil spray into the bores causing coking of the DoD cylinder rings on my other thread about my problems with my current motor, someone mentioned that my 06 has check valves in the pan, and oil filter housing, and the 07 doesnt have these.The 07+ only has the one behind/ inside the boss... the one under the oil filter fitting has been eliminated in that position as it is now located inside the oil filter itself so why does it say the 06 and 07 can use the same pan? or is it possible to run a 07 pan on a 06 or 05, and get rid of these check valves?Again yes you can use the 07 pan and it would also retain the 1 check valve for the DoD oil pressure relief but you would have to use the new oil filter for the 07+ model or does the 05 pan fit a 06, and not 07? im just confused here is all. or could i run my current 06 pan on the 05 motor? if so, id still be worried about the check valves in this pan. i was able to replace 1 check valve near the oil filter, but there is another in a bypass plate that i wasnt able to replace.For this , if you look at your new OPR check valve you will seethe little plunger that you can push in, I just thread a coarse thread bolt in there 1/8"-1/4" and then use 2 scrapers/putty knives one on either side of the bolt head and pry gently,pulling the check valve out evenly who knows if i fix this valve if my current motor will run the way its supposed to or not. but where it is currently, i cannot fix it while in the car. i would have to drop the pan and hope i can get the valve out as its pressed in
also, if i did purchase this 05 motor, will it go into my car and run correctly?Yes the 05-06 share all the same sensors and computers ive seen problems running a 07 motor in a 06, as the reluctor gears are different? but i havent seen anything about the 05 into a 06.
i thought about tearing down my curent motor and rebuilding, but cost is an issue, and then i dont know how much damage if any is already done to current motor with what sounds like dry starts.It is not so much dry starts as it is the pins to lock the DoD lifters do not slide out upon startup causing the DoD portion to be free with no oil pressure in this area at the time... oil is still there but no pressure as the DoD solenoids will/ do not function during this time. So if this is what is happening sometimes you start your car and clack, clack... but it is louder and lasts longer than the click , click of the lower lifters priming themselves or slowly priming themselves because the OPR valve is open or leaking.
i guess any infrmation would be helpful for me. buying this 05 motor sounds like the easier option for me at this point.
Last edited by Ill_Born_ss; 04-24-2015 at 06:59 AM.
04-24-2015, 07:33 AM
#100
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im just thinking out loud here. ive been having problems with my 06 monte ss, with what seems like really bad lifter tick.Here you have gone thru the process that proved there is nothing broken, you put in thicker (cold) oil and the tick is hit or miss. I recommended that you add Seafoam to the new oil at a rate of 1oz per quart to see if it continued to relieve the condition but I guess you did not. Once the engine is warm the noise goes away so again this proves that nothing is broken.... worn maybe! it maybe as simple as the pin in 1 lifter (dod) may be unlocking as the oil pressure drops on shutdown. im running out of options with it. i can tear it down and hopefully fix the lifters. but a member on here mentioned it may only temporarily solve my problems.Here I will try to explain, the early motors mostly came with the Eaton Dod system. You can easily tell as the word Eaton is embossed on the corner of the VLOM tray near the brake booster. This system seemed to have the most problems. The other option was the Delphi system, all the parts are interchangeable thru all years for this system. As I mentioned the Delphi lifters have moved to their 3rd gen and seem to be better. So this is where I stated it may only be temp. as the parts themselves seem to be un-dependable
so im just broadening my horizons a tad. i found a junk yard motor with 44k on it. they want a reasonable price for it, and its fairly local to me. bad part is it has a cracked oil pan. this motor is coming out of a 05 grand prix gxp.This engine may also have the Eaton lifters and could be a crap-shoot already or in the near future.
i got on gmpartsdirect. looked at oil pans. i looked at a 05 oil pan, which appears to be a 1 year only pan. then i looked at a 06 pan( to see if i could use my curret pan), and it says it fits 06 and 07.Yes the 05 and 06 pans are the same, check valves and all. Going this route of your pan on the lets say new motor will work and in doing so will also allow you to install the updated pan gasket which has a little oil deflector built into it that helps prevent oil spray into the bores causing coking of the DoD cylinder rings on my other thread about my problems with my current motor, someone mentioned that my 06 has check valves in the pan, and oil filter housing, and the 07 doesnt have these.The 07+ only has the one behind/ inside the boss... the one under the oil filter fitting has been eliminated in that position as it is now located inside the oil filter itself so why does it say the 06 and 07 can use the same pan? or is it possible to run a 07 pan on a 06 or 05, and get rid of these check valves?Again yes you can use the 07 pan and it would also retain the 1 check valve for the DoD oil pressure relief but you would have to use the new oil filter for the 07+ model or does the 05 pan fit a 06, and not 07? im just confused here is all. or could i run my current 06 pan on the 05 motor? if so, id still be worried about the check valves in this pan. i was able to replace 1 check valve near the oil filter, but there is another in a bypass plate that i wasnt able to replace.For this , if you look at your new OPR check valve you will seethe little plunger that you can push in, I just thread a coarse thread bolt in there 1/8"-1/4" and then use 2 scrapers/putty knives one on either side of the bolt head and pry gently,pulling the check valve out evenly who knows if i fix this valve if my current motor will run the way its supposed to or not. but where it is currently, i cannot fix it while in the car. i would have to drop the pan and hope i can get the valve out as its pressed in
also, if i did purchase this 05 motor, will it go into my car and run correctly?Yes the 05-06 share all the same sensors and computers ive seen problems running a 07 motor in a 06, as the reluctor gears are different? but i havent seen anything about the 05 into a 06.
i thought about tearing down my curent motor and rebuilding, but cost is an issue, and then i dont know how much damage if any is already done to current motor with what sounds like dry starts.It is not so much dry starts as it is the pins to lock the DoD lifters do not slide out upon startup causing the DoD portion to be free with no oil pressure in this area at the time... oil is still there but no pressure as the DoD solenoids will/ do not function during this time. So if this is what is happening sometimes you start your car and clack, clack... but it is louder and lasts longer than the click , click of the lower lifters priming themselves or slowly priming themselves because the OPR valve is open or leaking.
i guess any infrmation would be helpful for me. buying this 05 motor sounds like the easier option for me at this point.
ill born,
i am running 1 oz of seafoam per quart of oil like you suggested. did that since the oil change. yes my noise it hit or miss, sometimes its super loud, others you really have to be listening for it. you seem very knowledgable, if you were in my shoes, what would you do with this engine? should i tear into it and put new lifters in? or wait and see if seafoam straightens it out.? ill try your tip on pulling the check valve out, so i can eliminate that as a potential source for my noise as well.
so im just broadening my horizons a tad. i found a junk yard motor with 44k on it. they want a reasonable price for it, and its fairly local to me. bad part is it has a cracked oil pan. this motor is coming out of a 05 grand prix gxp.This engine may also have the Eaton lifters and could be a crap-shoot already or in the near future.
i got on gmpartsdirect. looked at oil pans. i looked at a 05 oil pan, which appears to be a 1 year only pan. then i looked at a 06 pan( to see if i could use my curret pan), and it says it fits 06 and 07.Yes the 05 and 06 pans are the same, check valves and all. Going this route of your pan on the lets say new motor will work and in doing so will also allow you to install the updated pan gasket which has a little oil deflector built into it that helps prevent oil spray into the bores causing coking of the DoD cylinder rings on my other thread about my problems with my current motor, someone mentioned that my 06 has check valves in the pan, and oil filter housing, and the 07 doesnt have these.The 07+ only has the one behind/ inside the boss... the one under the oil filter fitting has been eliminated in that position as it is now located inside the oil filter itself so why does it say the 06 and 07 can use the same pan? or is it possible to run a 07 pan on a 06 or 05, and get rid of these check valves?Again yes you can use the 07 pan and it would also retain the 1 check valve for the DoD oil pressure relief but you would have to use the new oil filter for the 07+ model or does the 05 pan fit a 06, and not 07? im just confused here is all. or could i run my current 06 pan on the 05 motor? if so, id still be worried about the check valves in this pan. i was able to replace 1 check valve near the oil filter, but there is another in a bypass plate that i wasnt able to replace.For this , if you look at your new OPR check valve you will seethe little plunger that you can push in, I just thread a coarse thread bolt in there 1/8"-1/4" and then use 2 scrapers/putty knives one on either side of the bolt head and pry gently,pulling the check valve out evenly who knows if i fix this valve if my current motor will run the way its supposed to or not. but where it is currently, i cannot fix it while in the car. i would have to drop the pan and hope i can get the valve out as its pressed in
also, if i did purchase this 05 motor, will it go into my car and run correctly?Yes the 05-06 share all the same sensors and computers ive seen problems running a 07 motor in a 06, as the reluctor gears are different? but i havent seen anything about the 05 into a 06.
i thought about tearing down my curent motor and rebuilding, but cost is an issue, and then i dont know how much damage if any is already done to current motor with what sounds like dry starts.It is not so much dry starts as it is the pins to lock the DoD lifters do not slide out upon startup causing the DoD portion to be free with no oil pressure in this area at the time... oil is still there but no pressure as the DoD solenoids will/ do not function during this time. So if this is what is happening sometimes you start your car and clack, clack... but it is louder and lasts longer than the click , click of the lower lifters priming themselves or slowly priming themselves because the OPR valve is open or leaking.
i guess any infrmation would be helpful for me. buying this 05 motor sounds like the easier option for me at this point.
ill born,
i am running 1 oz of seafoam per quart of oil like you suggested. did that since the oil change. yes my noise it hit or miss, sometimes its super loud, others you really have to be listening for it. you seem very knowledgable, if you were in my shoes, what would you do with this engine? should i tear into it and put new lifters in? or wait and see if seafoam straightens it out.? ill try your tip on pulling the check valve out, so i can eliminate that as a potential source for my noise as well.