91parkave

iTrader: (4)

all energy suspension swaybar polyurethane swaybar mounts come with zerk fittings with ffee the sway bar bushing.

rottonj

iTrader: (4)

While you could drill a very tiny hole in the actual bushing to let grease in, I would not try to install any metal in the bushing. Those look like Energy Suspension bushings. I have used them plenty of times in the past, for me and my car the Moog poly bushings and factory clamshell more than suffices.

Late to the party lol

rottonj

iTrader: (4)

Stop turbo teasing and get on with a new thread of your build and its progress

Red_Zone

what is the proper orientation of the 34mm bar? THere are no markings on it that tell me which side faces up and which faces down... the bar is not the same top and bottom there are subtle differences which would indicate there is a right and wrong way to put it in...

91parkave

iTrader: (4)

There are markings on the bar. Doorman puts driver side down on it. However either way can work. Makes no difference except ending length. I would suggest if using the bar that your using on the control arm that you use a grade 8 or 10 bolt and make the end link shorter. It will give the vehicle a better more stable feel especially going over uneven grades of pavment

Red_Zone

I've already purchased and have the Moog problem solver end links... K700527 which I believe come with a grade 8 bolt... but you are saying replace the bolt and make it shorter by... an inch or so eh? hmmm...

http://fme-cat.com/livedocs/MOOG_PS_...Link_ENG-R.pdf

I will look again on the part for markings for orientation but I don't think I see anything... I purchased the GM part number 34mm bar not the doorman.

91parkave

iTrader: (4)

Moogs endings are a waste of money. Any auto parts store that sells energy suspension eenlinks are what you want. Last longer too

Red_Zone

I'm going to go a different direction that most owners... I ONLY drive my car in the summer and never in rain... it will never see rain ever again now that I bought a house with a garage.

I'm going to actually cover the endlinks, sway bar bushings, tie rod ends, etc with black rubber gloves cut in tubes and secure them with gear clamps, zip ties or something.

My suspension points will NEVER see dust either... I've already blew 10 cans of brake cleaner my subframe, suspension, everything is literally so clean right now you can eat off any of it... covering the endlinks etc will ensure long life. No one I have ever seen has done this and I'm not sure why.

rottonj

iTrader: (4)

Take pictures when you do that, seems like a good amount of work for very little return as all parts will wear regardless. Kind of jumping around with your ideas, this idea sounds like a show car. You made the car your own when you started the mods, not driving the car for weather conditions seems excessive. GM bar is not marked, at least mine wasn't. V in the swaybar points down.

Red_Zone

v points down... yes it has a V in the middle the bar does... I was wondering about that shape... ok put that facing down thanks!

But... Not a show car though just a clean street car that sits in my garage and comes out on nice days. I hope to keep the car forever so keeping it clean and driving in good weather will ensure I have the car 20 years from now. I have a 2012 Unlimited Wrangler and an 03 Explorer Sport Trac too, so in my mind there is no reason to drive a highly modded GP in the rain when I can take other vehicles that's all...

and putting a "boot" over critical bushings etc is not the worst idea I've ever had because where you have grease you have grit... and where there is grit there is wear and tear. Just bought a bunch of parts and a boot will keep them clean and make them perform like new, longer.

I will definitely be taking pictures...

rottonj

iTrader: (4)

When you do the bar a ratcheting wrench works best on the rear sway bar bracket bolts. Think it was 15mm, a socket wrench can might hit before the bolt is all the way out.

91parkave

iTrader: (4)

I just drop the rear subframe to the end of the bolts. And then you have full access

Red_Zone

I likely won't attempt to put the 34mm in till next spring now... but because I have the car tuning kit, I believe after lining up the bar underneath the car, it looks like the wastegate is going to hit the bigger bar after install... the stock bar is straight from one frame bushing to another... the 34mm bar bends in a relaxed V shape between instead... and the apex of the bend I think is going to be right where the waste gate is...

I'm guessing no one here has the cartuning kit with the 34mm bar or?

I'm going to take some pictures and post them here so you all can see what I'm seeing... I MIGHT be able to return the bar if it's not going to clear the wastegate of the cartuning setup

91parkave

iTrader: (4)

just flip the bar, it can work in either configuration

Red_Zone

I'm not sure if you are understanding me because it's impossible to get a different configuration by flipping the bar... ill snap some pics....

91parkave

iTrader: (4)

I am understanding. it's just that the pointed end will point to the ground. I rather than up. this a common practice in the 3800 world when your headers would interfere or turbo kits etc...

Red_Zone

THe breaker bar shows the path that the stock bar takes... there is a huge bend in this bar for some reason....








And here is the clearance I have to work with...















I think I'm going to have to also order a stock bar and when I go to do the job keep it near in case I have no choice... but from everything I'm looking at the 34mm is not compatible with the cutout location and wastegate location... in other words the cartuning kit.... if those two things where not there the bar would fit by the downpipe obviously...

I hope I'm wrong... I don't think I am... and it sucks because I already purchased bushings and the bar... AND the LCA's AND the end links... all useless....

rottonj

iTrader: (4)

Looks tight,might not fit. You could just post the items as a package deal in the classifieds or return them . I think the control arms would still be usable by cutting off the sway bar end link mounting tab. As Parkave said V up on the bar is what the GP supercharged guys or turbo guys do with bigger downpipes . Guess you will know when you get in there. Surface rust on the factory bar is no big deal if thats what it is. If the bigger bar is too much bs just throw on some Moog poly bushings and end links on the stock bar and call it a day.

91parkave

iTrader: (4)

BTW the lca you bought will still work with the sway bar tab. there's no need to modify anything. the gxp front bar is actually not a bad piece. keep in mind the 04+ ccomp g and gxp do own the highest handling numbers of the wbody platform.

So if anything if this swaybar falls through use the gxp swaybar with moog eendinks

85SS/85GN

iTrader: (3)

Did the gmmp sway bars cone on any cars from the factory. 9c1 got them right? I'm uncle has a 06 ss with a bigger bar on the front.