93 black t/a

Alright so i'm assembling my motor and went with ARP main studs (2 bolt), and when i went to put the windage tray on the crank wouldn't clear and its the stock crank. I read that you have to sometimes not thread the studs down all the way to the bottom to get the windage tray to clear the crank. I really dont like doing that, seems like the stud wouldn't be getting as much bite that way. Is there a aftermarket tray i can run with the stock pan that would clear better, allowing me to thread the stud all the way to the bottom?

gatorhead

iTrader: (4)

I don't know why the threads being bottomed out or not would provide a better bite. They are essentially torqued down by the nut not the bottom of the thread. If you put it on that way and then torque the nut the only way the stud comes out is if the bolt does or comes loose. Alot of folks make the mistake of bottoming the stud out when it is not necessary. If you contact ARP they will reiterate what I just told you in so many words or less I have the studs in my block and thats the way I have it installed as per ARP.

robsquikz28

iTrader: (246)

yes sir same as I did just thread the stud and tq the nut

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Or you can do what I did and get some milodon (SP) studs and they will work with the windage tray. I ended up buying mine from a guy that got a set and hooked me up the the left overs.

That way the stud will be tightened all the way down into the threads

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

I have the milodon adjustable windage tray studs

pretty pricey but 6 come in a pack and I got 3 left over, lmk if you're interested

Ralls

iTrader: (32)

I'm surprised it won't clear with the stock crank. Mine wouldn't clear with my stroker motor. I had ARP's windage tray version studs and they were still wouldn't clear even after modifying the tray. I bought the Milodon windage tray studs. They are a little longer than ARP so they ended up working out.
I also have my remaining 3 Milodon studs/washers/nuts if your interested.