need info about blown headgasket and more
07-20-2009, 05:53 PM
#1
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
need info about blown headgasket and more ok I got a blown head gasket and I'm planing to do everything by myself. my dad is a great mechanic so if I run in some **** he will help me out 
know that I will have the intake out what else can I replace .plugs,wires....?? name it please.
my budget is $500
ups almost forget if you guys have any usefull link about how to replace a blown the gasket and lalalala
and please don't be so harsh with me. I'm a noob
know that I will have the intake out what else can I replace .plugs,wires....?? name it please.
my budget is $500
ups almost forget if you guys have any usefull link about how to replace a blown the gasket and lalalala
and please don't be so harsh with me. I'm a noob
07-20-2009, 06:11 PM
#2
This write up helped me out the very first time I swapped heads long ago:
http://www.afrashteh.com/guide/install.htm
I would pick up a pair of GM Impala head gaskets. They are thiner and will bump up your compression a little. If you don't want to do that, Felpro headgaskets work well. Once the heads are off it's a good time to do a valve job and install new valve seals. That will eat away a good chunk of your budget though. Get Felpro intake manifold gaskets and a tube of RTV. Get your head bolts cleaned up on a wire wheel (replacing them is recommended, but if on a budget, many people reuse them). Spend lots of time cleaning up all of the mating surfaces of the heads and the intake manifold with a gasket scraper and clean it up with some brake cleaner and some paper towels. Keep your work area CLEAN. You don't want to get any debris inside your engine. Follow the appropriate torque sequences for the cylinder heads and the intake manifold. You don't want to do this again, trust me. Go ahead and intall new spark plugs while you are at it (NGK TR55's are what I recommend). Be very carefull not to break the temp sensor on the drivers side cylinder head. Don't forget to drain the block (step one of the procedure) by removing the knock sensor on the passenger side and the drain plug on the drivers side of the block.
You can paint your intake if you want, to add some bling under the hood.
One last thing...take your time, do it right!
You'll need (off the top of my head):
head gaskets
intake manifold gaskets
exhaust manifold gaskets
steam pipe gaskets
RTV
thread locker
many cans of brake cleaner
coolant
lots of paper towels
Good luck man.
http://www.afrashteh.com/guide/install.htm
I would pick up a pair of GM Impala head gaskets. They are thiner and will bump up your compression a little. If you don't want to do that, Felpro headgaskets work well. Once the heads are off it's a good time to do a valve job and install new valve seals. That will eat away a good chunk of your budget though. Get Felpro intake manifold gaskets and a tube of RTV. Get your head bolts cleaned up on a wire wheel (replacing them is recommended, but if on a budget, many people reuse them). Spend lots of time cleaning up all of the mating surfaces of the heads and the intake manifold with a gasket scraper and clean it up with some brake cleaner and some paper towels. Keep your work area CLEAN. You don't want to get any debris inside your engine. Follow the appropriate torque sequences for the cylinder heads and the intake manifold. You don't want to do this again, trust me. Go ahead and intall new spark plugs while you are at it (NGK TR55's are what I recommend). Be very carefull not to break the temp sensor on the drivers side cylinder head. Don't forget to drain the block (step one of the procedure) by removing the knock sensor on the passenger side and the drain plug on the drivers side of the block.
You can paint your intake if you want, to add some bling under the hood.
One last thing...take your time, do it right!
You'll need (off the top of my head):
head gaskets
intake manifold gaskets
exhaust manifold gaskets
steam pipe gaskets
RTV
thread locker
many cans of brake cleaner
coolant
lots of paper towels
Good luck man.
07-21-2009, 01:20 AM
#3
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Join Date: Apr 2007
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If you're changing head bolts, be sure to use the thread lubricate specificed by the bolt maker. For example, ARP stresses you only use their thread lube/sealant. Alos, use their torque specs because different bolts can clamp the heads differently.
If you're re-using the stock bolts, clean off all the goop that may be on the threads. Oil the underside of the head bolt and the head bolt washers too. You'll get more accurate torque readings that way.
You will also need thread sealer on those head bolts that extend into the water jackets to prevent pressure in the cooling system from forcing coolant up the threads and into the rocker areas of your heads.
Torque the head bolts in at least three steps following the sequence found in most engine manuals.
Use Anti-Seize on the intake manifold and exhaust bolt threads. Follow the sequence shown in the manual for YOUR SPECIFIC engine. I always torque mine to 35 ft/lbs in three steps.
As ss.slp just said, be sure to use new steam tube washers; ask me how I know.
Do you know how to set the lifter preload once the heads are on?
Any other questions, let us know.
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
If you're re-using the stock bolts, clean off all the goop that may be on the threads. Oil the underside of the head bolt and the head bolt washers too. You'll get more accurate torque readings that way.
You will also need thread sealer on those head bolts that extend into the water jackets to prevent pressure in the cooling system from forcing coolant up the threads and into the rocker areas of your heads.
Torque the head bolts in at least three steps following the sequence found in most engine manuals.
Use Anti-Seize on the intake manifold and exhaust bolt threads. Follow the sequence shown in the manual for YOUR SPECIFIC engine. I always torque mine to 35 ft/lbs in three steps.
As ss.slp just said, be sure to use new steam tube washers; ask me how I know.
Do you know how to set the lifter preload once the heads are on?
Any other questions, let us know.
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
07-21-2009, 07:00 AM
#4
Village Troll 
iTrader: (2)
Don't replace things that aren't necessary. Go ahead and closely examine your wires for burns, wear or cracked areas, but if they look good then keep them. As far as plugs are concerned I would surely change them since they are cheap enough and it's far easier to change them out during a head swap. 
07-21-2009, 09:30 AM
#5
I replaced my timing chain stuff while I was in there and cap and rotor. Then again I don't know how many miles you have, I had 125k on mine when they went so I used that time to freshen anything up I could. Your budget may not allow this, but hey while its apart its not a bad time. Wish I had done AIR pump delete at the same time, no I fought with the stupid pump and lines though for the next 3 years before I finally got rid of all that crap.
I think the Felpro gasket set is a little over $200, but it has all the gaskets you will need. It had ran me $100 to have my heads cleaned, checked for cracks, flatness, etc.
I think the Felpro gasket set is a little over $200, but it has all the gaskets you will need. It had ran me $100 to have my heads cleaned, checked for cracks, flatness, etc.
