LT1 t-56 anything out there to help make faster shifting?
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LT1 t-56 anything out there to help make faster shifting?
Wasn't sure if I would get as much attention in the transmission section. Seems as if more Ls1's go there. I noticed LS1 t-56 people go buy a product from tick performance to make there shifting very fast and smooth. Is there anything for the LT1 t-56 to help improve our speed/power shifting? Thanks for any help.
#6
I believe the OP is refering to the Tick "slave".....not a shifter
while any aftermarket shifter is better than "stock", Tick makes a clutch hydraulic slave replacement said to improve clutch disengagement/engagement (especially at high RPM's)
while any aftermarket shifter is better than "stock", Tick makes a clutch hydraulic slave replacement said to improve clutch disengagement/engagement (especially at high RPM's)
#7
Yeah, but the LS1 t56s had problems with disengagement from the factory at high rpms, so the tick is more of a fix than an improvement... the LT1 style is good as-is, it just has a crappy throwout bearing that tends to break (at least the stock style round fbody one, the square Vette ones are stronger).
A T56 with the synchros in good shape should be a pretty slick shifting tranny as long as you don't have a super short stick which might make it a little more difficult (because of the greatly reduced "leverage"). Probably the quickest shifting T56 I drove was a stock one w/ about 60k miles and a B&M Ripper. The Ripper has a fairly long stick but the throw is still short enough that I could bang the gears VERY quick.
A T56 with the synchros in good shape should be a pretty slick shifting tranny as long as you don't have a super short stick which might make it a little more difficult (because of the greatly reduced "leverage"). Probably the quickest shifting T56 I drove was a stock one w/ about 60k miles and a B&M Ripper. The Ripper has a fairly long stick but the throw is still short enough that I could bang the gears VERY quick.
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^^exactly, different brand shifters arent necessarily "faster" they just feel different, i love the Hurst and can outshift my friend in his MGW car, his is really knotchy so if "feels" like you're shifting faster, while my hurst might have a longer stick, its a lot smoother and i can slam gears, its all about driver preference.
Other then that, rebuilding your tranny might be the solution if its physically preventing you from shifting
Other then that, rebuilding your tranny might be the solution if its physically preventing you from shifting
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X2..lol
I have a B&M Ripper on mine and like mentioned it's a very smooth shifter. I have driven cars with the Pro 5.0, Hurst, and a few others, and my B&M is probably the favorite out of all of them. If you know how to move it in the right way it pretty much will run through the Gears like an auto..
I have a B&M Ripper on mine and like mentioned it's a very smooth shifter. I have driven cars with the Pro 5.0, Hurst, and a few others, and my B&M is probably the favorite out of all of them. If you know how to move it in the right way it pretty much will run through the Gears like an auto..
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I have the Hurst and am very pleased, it smooth, centers well, throws are reasonably short, its quick and nearly impossible to miss a gear with. T-handle was a bit weird at first, but its grown on me and now I wouldn't have it any other way.
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a tranny with good synchro's and a steel fork (takes out a little slop) with an aftermarket shifter/short stick is about as good as it gets.
my t56 with an aftermarket hurst shifter, and a short handle I turned down on a lathe works awesome. shorter than the boat oar it came with, but still has enough leverage to be functional.
my t56 with an aftermarket hurst shifter, and a short handle I turned down on a lathe works awesome. shorter than the boat oar it came with, but still has enough leverage to be functional.
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Your clutch can have an effect on this also. I know that the centerforce disc has some extra thickness to it over stock and drags very slightly even with the clutch pedal on the floor. Which make the shifting effort much harder and it also makes it very difficult to "power shift" No idea if your spec is the same deal or not.
#20
Yeah, but the LS1 t56s had problems with disengagement from the factory at high rpms, so the tick is more of a fix than an improvement... the LT1 style is good as-is, it just has a crappy throwout bearing that tends to break (at least the stock style round fbody one, the square Vette ones are stronger).
A T56 with the synchros in good shape should be a pretty slick shifting tranny as long as you don't have a super short stick which might make it a little more difficult (because of the greatly reduced "leverage"). Probably the quickest shifting T56 I drove was a stock one w/ about 60k miles and a B&M Ripper. The Ripper has a fairly long stick but the throw is still short enough that I could bang the gears VERY quick.
A T56 with the synchros in good shape should be a pretty slick shifting tranny as long as you don't have a super short stick which might make it a little more difficult (because of the greatly reduced "leverage"). Probably the quickest shifting T56 I drove was a stock one w/ about 60k miles and a B&M Ripper. The Ripper has a fairly long stick but the throw is still short enough that I could bang the gears VERY quick.
Also got a question for ya don't mean to threadjack but my throwout bearing in my 96 is creaking and Im afraid it'll go out soon. Can you retrofit a square Vette style TO bearing to an Fbody? Preferably a 96 ? Thanks