95BlkBird

The valve cover gaskets had been changed previously because they were Felpro. They didnt use sealant so assuming thats why the back corner was leaking. I used rtv sealant and it's holding up fine now. As I was under the car again today I saw the oil level sensor leaking lol. Fix one find another!

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Normally FelPro valve cover gaskets really do not require sealant. I only use a little bit of sealant to keep the gasket in place when dropping them onto the cylinder heads.

BADMOON

Oh come on man if it aint leakin it aint a hotrod.. My turd is leakin oil all over Nitrous Outlets shop right now kind of embarassing but it just means I gotta pull the dipstick out more.

95BlkBird

lol I dont mind a little leaking but damn this thing is leaking from every damn seal lol. Car was sitting in a garage for about 6 yrs so I guess it was a shock to the system to be driving again.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Gaskets/seals dried out. Do you have a plume of oil smoke out the exhaust at first start up? If so, your valve seals may be bad too.

jb442

iTrader: (4)

95BlkBird - If you think your leak is coming from the front cover, around the crankshaft, this may be your issue:

Notice the grooves in the hub... I think my car had around 110K at that time. Once I replaced the hub and seal (both new), no more leak. I replaced them during an water pump/opti upgrade.

95BlkBird

I have a question about replacing these. I understand about marking the hub to install it the same way it came off but Haynes said to jam the fly wheel so crank wouldn't move. Doesn't it take some effort to manually turn the crank lol? Seems pointless but I'll do it if need be.

jb442

iTrader: (4)

The bottom line is that you want to get it reinstalled in the exact same position as it came off. Unfortunately, the LT1 is not keyed. You may inadvertently turn the crank while pulling or reinstalling the hub. It's actually easier to move than you think. After the motor has been sitting for a while, you can easily move it some degrees before one of the cylinders starts making compression (if you have the plugs out, this will be even easier). Even if you have a manual trans, and it's in-gear, it can move to some extent. I would turn the crank so the mark on the hub is straight up (see the green line in the picture) for a reference point AND mark the hub & crank (as you're pulling it off) with a line as well. Someone else may be able to comment on this, but I believe when that mark is pointing straight-up, the #1 cylinder is supposed to be at TDC. That's another way you could reinstall it if you don't have a point of reference. Hope that helps!

95BlkBird

Can I take the hub off w/o removing the waterpump and opti? Seems theres enough room.

jb442

iTrader: (4)

Yep... Should be able to.