Stupid question about Pro-Mag RR's (noise)
#1
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Stupid question about Pro-Mag RR's (noise)
Just installed a set of Comp Pro-Magnum NSA 1.6 roller rockers with Comp hardened pushrods, Comp 7/16" Studs, GMPP hardened guideplates, and Patriot Gold valve springs.
Used shbox's website to preload the stock lifters, 5/8 turn past zero lash.
Car fired right up, idles fine, and no check engine light.
The only question I have is about the noise-- should I expect the Pro-Mags to be noisier than the stock rocker arms??
From a few feet away the car sounds pretty much normal, but when I stick my head near the engine I don't hear any knocking or ticking, more like just a loud "clatter" that wasn't there before.
I'm guessing this is pretty normal and I'm probably concerned about nothing, but I figured I'd ask you guys here first.
Used shbox's website to preload the stock lifters, 5/8 turn past zero lash.
Car fired right up, idles fine, and no check engine light.
The only question I have is about the noise-- should I expect the Pro-Mags to be noisier than the stock rocker arms??
From a few feet away the car sounds pretty much normal, but when I stick my head near the engine I don't hear any knocking or ticking, more like just a loud "clatter" that wasn't there before.
I'm guessing this is pretty normal and I'm probably concerned about nothing, but I figured I'd ask you guys here first.
#4
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It is normal for roller rockers to click and tick the way you are describing. If a rocker loosens up, it will tick very loudly and this has to be addressed before damage occurs to the lifter reatiner clip. Some ticking can result in false knock which can back the timing off. The LT4 KM helps here.
Also if I were you, I would pull those GM guide plates and at a minimum get some Trickflow plates because they will be properly hardened. The GMPPP guide plates are hit and miss and myself and others have been bit in the *** by them.
Best thing is to get the Isky guide plates but setting them up is a PITA but the end results will be much better alignment and stability of the valvetrain.
Also if I were you, I would pull those GM guide plates and at a minimum get some Trickflow plates because they will be properly hardened. The GMPPP guide plates are hit and miss and myself and others have been bit in the *** by them.
Best thing is to get the Isky guide plates but setting them up is a PITA but the end results will be much better alignment and stability of the valvetrain.
#5
Ditto on the isky gp
Yes rr when lashed right do have a "sewing machine" sound. Also I assume you clearenced your valve cover braces or run another valve cover.....that sound would be obvious I'd you didn't
Yes rr when lashed right do have a "sewing machine" sound. Also I assume you clearenced your valve cover braces or run another valve cover.....that sound would be obvious I'd you didn't
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Thanks for your input guys.
Yea I'm sure I'm worried about nothing now, that "sewing machine" description was dead on lol, thats pretty much just what they sound like when you get your head close to the engine bay.
I've got the LT4 KM, installed that a couple years ago when I put the headers on.
Clearenced the valve covers too, hell they wouldn't even fit without doing so.
As for the guideplates, I took a file to one of them and it didn't bite at all, so I think I'm pretty safe for now, they should be hardened properly. I will keep the Trickflows and Iskys in mind though.
Yea I'm sure I'm worried about nothing now, that "sewing machine" description was dead on lol, thats pretty much just what they sound like when you get your head close to the engine bay.
I've got the LT4 KM, installed that a couple years ago when I put the headers on.
Clearenced the valve covers too, hell they wouldn't even fit without doing so.
As for the guideplates, I took a file to one of them and it didn't bite at all, so I think I'm pretty safe for now, they should be hardened properly. I will keep the Trickflows and Iskys in mind though.