GameOn911

So I pulled the classic move as it sounds many other have, but I tore the seal that goes on the water pump drive on the first go around. Now I ordered the tool, will go get a new seal this weekend and try and attempt this the "right way". Anyone have any suggestions or tips so I don't have to go round 3? This seal is supposed to go on dry correct?

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

I use the coupler as my tool and many use the plastic cap off of a Sharpy marker as their tool. Hope you did not pay a lot for your tool. Yes it says to go on dry.

GameOn911

Not too bad, paid $15 for the tool, I tried a sharpie cap? Maybe I didn't have the right size though. I just don't want to tear another seal and then be down another $10 in seals. I figure the $15 could save me an endless path of seals...

Gojira94

iTrader: (4)

Keep it in hot, but not anywhere near boiling water, like in a coffee cup until you're ready to put it on. It will make it a bit softer and more pliable while you put it on and reduce the chance of tearing quite a bit.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

I put it in a ziploc to keep it dry and then put that in warm water to help soften it.

I have used a deep socket out of the toolbox as my install tool.

Make sure not to fold the inner seal outward.

In the same area and addressing another seal in the kit I boil the damper hub to warm it prior to installation. By boiling it you get it hot but not so hot you could damage it's seal. No need to try to keep it dry as at 212degrees it drys fast once removed from the pot.

2manycamaros

the little circle seal thats pressed into the timing cover?

ive put 3 rebuilt lt1s together and put syl-glyde on the hub and water pump drive seal never had any issues with leaking or tearing

jlpz

iTrader: (8)

I have the same tool..the guys sent me a video and an install guide for it..I can foward them to you if you like...PM me.