Ballinonabudget

iTrader: (12)

I'm a total noob when it comes to nitrous, so please help me out - I searched and got a general understanding, but I need help since my LT1 is heavily modded now. I got the car built this way and while it's not the way I would have done it, it's still a blast and I got a crazy deal.

I have about 1000 miles on a brand new 383 build. All forged Eagle innards except for the crank (cast, sucks I know). LE2 heads, CC306 cam, 38# injectors, Walbro 255 fuel pump...If I need to post up any specifics on the motor build please let me know and I will! Like I said I'm a noob. I know enough, but as far as actually building a motor goes that is something I have never done. I got the car with the short block installed, and did all the supporting mods and finished building it myself.

What factors play into being able to use nitrous, and how much of a shot the car can handle? The build is kind of old-school, but really well done. Not a million dollar motor by any means but it produces good, reliable power. N/A I'm making a little over 400rwhp on a mail order tune.

93Z2871805

iTrader: (5)

Whether you have the guts to hit the switch or not! lol

How big of a shot do you want to put to it? What kind of rings were used in the build? Was the engine built with nitrous in mind?

englundjd

All forged Eagle innards except for the crank <----- big problem. From what ive heard of those cast eagle cranks i would have ripped it out before the short block went in. I would'nt hit that thing with any nitrous at all

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

I'm pretty sure the Eagle cast cranks are only rated up to 500 HP....if you're already 400 RWHP (450-475hp) then even a 75 shot puts you at high risk of catastrophic engine failure....that would be a real pisser to happen to your new engine. Sounds like a recipe for disaster; should have ponied up for a forged crank if you wanted nitrous.

97Z28SS

iTrader: (5)

I wouldn't spray it at all with that crank in it or you'll destroy your new engine. Just run it as is and it should run high 11's or low 12's.

93Z2871805

iTrader: (5)

I didn't want to jump to that as I wasn't sure if it was all of their cast cranks, newer ones, older ones, or just a certain batch made was bad, but since the general consensus is better safe than sorry, I wouldn't push that crank either.

Ballinonabudget

iTrader: (12)

Yeah I know the Eagle cranks suck, the guy I got the car from is the one who built the engine and put that POS in there. I never understood why he used all forged pieces and opted for the shittiest crank on the market >.<

So no nitrous for me until I swap the crank or blow this motor and rebuild

bowtienut

iTrader: (1)

It's too bad you have that CC306 cam in there. Revs are what will kill that crank, not cylinder pressure, and the 306 cam certainly wants to rev to make power.
What kind of damper are you running? A good one will help control the crank harmonics at high revs better than the stocker.
Honestly, I think it's going to last longer spraying a 100 shot and shifting at 6300 than running NA and shifting at 6800-7000.