killerz97

iTrader: (1)

I was wonderding who on here does machine work and assembly. I am considering upgrading my valvetrain and turning a couple more rpm as well as having the shortblock gone through and checked over. Please let me know if anybody knows of any good machine shops. Would prefer somewhere in the mid west but would consider any place that does quality work.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

Post specs on your current setup.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

A few years ago when you asked for advice on your build you got tons of it on how to do it properly and, more importantly, ONCE.

What happened? How did the motor perform? What parts did you end up running? Provide some details on the build and we can help you get to where you want to be (again).

killerz97

iTrader: (1)

Current setup- forged 383 eagle kit, SRP flat top pistons, LE 234/242 cam, Patriot gold springs and retainers, howards 1.6 nsa rr's, hardened pushrods, stock ported heads(ported by the last machine shop), comp timing chain set

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

What's wrong with it? Any dyno numbers? Track ETs? What's the rest of the car look like? Make a signature will ya?

killerz97

iTrader: (1)

Unfortunately the machine shop I used I don't believe was the best. The motor runs strong and has pushed the car to 12.7's currently on a street tire, 2.73's, and stock stall. I realize the car has a lot more potential in it. The motor leaks oil out of the front crank seal and rear main seal and I haven't been able to figure out why. I also heard from another customer of the same shop recently having the same problem, and now I have decided enough is enough.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

What compression? 2 bolt or splayed 4 bolt mains? Any flow numbers on the heads?

killerz97

iTrader: (1)

Its 2 bolt right now with ARP main bolts and compression is around 12:1 I believe. Also the motor has the 6" rod.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like a nice setup. H beam or I beam rods? Sounds like you did take the advice 2 years ago.

killerz97

iTrader: (1)

H beams it has all the right parts I just don't know if the machine work is as quality as the parts, the setup currently turns close to 6800rpm on a Ed Wright mail order tune

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

2.73s and a stock stall? You're losing at LEAST a full second in the 1/4 from the lack of those two modifications alone. IMO, change the heads to something reputable, fix your leaks, change the gearing to something not shitty, and put a high stall (3600 at least) in it. You don't need a complete rebuild - you just need some understanding.

killerz97

iTrader: (1)

My main concern is the motor leaking oil. I have replaced the front seal going on 4 times already and it continues to leak. If the heads get replaced I will probably spend the money on a set of AI TFS heads and the trans is getting rebuilt this spring hopefully. It will be getting a PI 3600 or 4000 and all new clutch packs and hard parts that commonly break(sun shell, etc).

killerz97

iTrader: (1)

The cars best 1/8th mile was 8.03 @ 94mph with a 1.82 60' foot in good air. That pass alone should put the car closer to an 11 second pass.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

The 94mph shows you are making some power, but the 8.0 is what I cut in my bolton only M6. You really need to spend the money on better rear gear, and preferably a 12 bolt or S60. I would do 12 bolt because its lighter than the S60 and less loss than a 9". And definately a stall. Those 2 things could get you in the low to mid 11s.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Seems like you're jumping the gun here. If the front seal is leaking after replacing it 4 times I would suspect the install method needs some revision OR there is damage to the crank hub. If so, you should install a speedy sleeve on the crank hub to tighten up the seal a bit.

I will also assume you have none or next to no suspension work. Get a converter, change the gears - start there before you go into engine panic mode.

killerz97

iTrader: (1)

Already did the speedy sleeve to no success, this also doesn't explain why the rear main is leaking either. And you are correct bone stock suspension and the car will get a MWC fab 9 after the trans is done and I can break a 10 bolt. lol

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

Well you arent going to have much luck breaking the 10 bolt with 2.73s and a stock stall. Big teeth on a 2.73 rear plus no real hit off the line with the stock stall, you will probably go forever without breaking it.

Puck

iTrader: (17)

Stall should be one of the first things you do to an auto, not a 383.

Between that and crappy 2.73s you are giving up an honest .8+ right there in your combo.

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't be upset if I was trapping 94mph on a mail order tune, stock gears, and stall with a pretty mild sounding 383

killerz97

iTrader: (1)

The motor took a **** 3500 miles after I bought it. Then I spent more on the motor to do it right than I planned on and ran out of money.