whats ur thoughts on this build
12-03-2012, 07:01 PM
#1
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whats ur thoughts on this build alot of ppl kno i bought a lt1 and had a few problems with knock retard well its going to have to get dyno tuned i know that..
but besides all that.
what was think builders ideas u guys think of the info below
heads ported and polished 278 intake...197 exahust
cc cam 230/242 .510 lift 113 lsa
comp cams pro magnum 1.6 roller rockers
cc 987 dual valve springs
si silverline series vavles 2.00 intake and 197 exhaust
eagle h beam connecting rods
je nitrous pistons
crane hardened push rods
ported intake runners to match heads
its got a 3 inch borla
k and n cold air intake
now whats ur thoughts on what needs changed to help me out in hp
whys the cam numbers so far apart was that a custom cam??
usually its within 6 numbers for the intake and exahust of the cam
but besides all that.
what was think builders ideas u guys think of the info below
heads ported and polished 278 intake...197 exahust
cc cam 230/242 .510 lift 113 lsa
comp cams pro magnum 1.6 roller rockers
cc 987 dual valve springs
si silverline series vavles 2.00 intake and 197 exhaust
eagle h beam connecting rods
je nitrous pistons
crane hardened push rods
ported intake runners to match heads
its got a 3 inch borla
k and n cold air intake
now whats ur thoughts on what needs changed to help me out in hp
whys the cam numbers so far apart was that a custom cam??
usually its within 6 numbers for the intake and exahust of the cam
12-03-2012, 08:19 PM
#2
I think we have been through this before. There are a lot of specific things missing information here. What is the compression ratio? Flat tops I hope. Who ported the heads ? Who did the machine work Was it a reputable shop? Do you have any of the part numbers? The wide split on duration is generally used in a nitrous set up with a big hit.
12-03-2012, 08:58 PM
#4
In general terms 6-8 degrees of I/E split is decent for a NA setup.
113 should not be used for an NA setup unless it is emissions concern causing it, most of the quick NA setups are 107-110LSA. With single 3" exhaust I would probably stay more like 110 as the tighter you go the more exhaust sensitive it is.
If you are going to spray DO NOT pick a wide LSA for it unless you are looking to spray say 250+.
The .510 lift number is probably with 1.5s, using 1.6s is the right thing to do but still only pushes it up to .544 which is too low unless maybe you are going for never having to consider valvespring replacement, most of us go .560-.610 on lift and at the higher end of that lift scale expect maybe 15K miles out of a set of beehives.
Looks like your builder is a full decade behind on his cam selection.
113 should not be used for an NA setup unless it is emissions concern causing it, most of the quick NA setups are 107-110LSA. With single 3" exhaust I would probably stay more like 110 as the tighter you go the more exhaust sensitive it is.
If you are going to spray DO NOT pick a wide LSA for it unless you are looking to spray say 250+.
The .510 lift number is probably with 1.5s, using 1.6s is the right thing to do but still only pushes it up to .544 which is too low unless maybe you are going for never having to consider valvespring replacement, most of us go .560-.610 on lift and at the higher end of that lift scale expect maybe 15K miles out of a set of beehives.
Looks like your builder is a full decade behind on his cam selection.
12-04-2012, 08:19 AM
#5
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It wld be nice to know what ur thots are - ur goals what ur gonna do to the car u obvious have spent a chunk of money on the bottom end, have 2 agree on what the others say abt lsa kind of high for a NA or squeeze set up also no lift but plenty of duration. the cam wld be a start agn CR wld b nice to know and the shot ur gonna use judging by the pistons im guessing ur gonna, the other thing i dont see is stall or tranny or rear end fuel system all of these will have to be addressed to run the numbers u cld w the proper cam and head setup.
12-04-2012, 08:38 AM
#6
I probably don't know the whole story/history here, but.........
Is this a solid/functional/running engine? Not drinking coolant, oil, smoking, making clanking noises, etc.?
If so, then don't even worry about the cam at this point. It sounds like you have a lot to figure out and get WHAT YOU ALREADY HAVE tuned and running properly first. Sure, that cam is nowhere near optimum for a NA setup, but it sure as heck is not what's holding your car back. Even a STOCK cam properly tuned would be turning in those numbers. The one you have is easily capable of running mid 11's in the high teens mph. Don't throw any money at it until you fix what's wrong.
Is this a solid/functional/running engine? Not drinking coolant, oil, smoking, making clanking noises, etc.?
If so, then don't even worry about the cam at this point. It sounds like you have a lot to figure out and get WHAT YOU ALREADY HAVE tuned and running properly first. Sure, that cam is nowhere near optimum for a NA setup, but it sure as heck is not what's holding your car back. Even a STOCK cam properly tuned would be turning in those numbers. The one you have is easily capable of running mid 11's in the high teens mph. Don't throw any money at it until you fix what's wrong.
12-04-2012, 10:10 AM
#7
He bought the car like this. He posted up about his track numbers wondering why he was only running 12.6 at 110 or something, even with a 1.6 60'.
That setup you have there, should put down at least 350rwhp if it is healthy. You should be very low 12s, trapping 115ish, and with your 60' should be high 11s. Your cam is very close to the cc306, so my guess is the builder took the cc306 and modified it for what HE thought would be better for nitrous, widening the LSA, and reducing exhaust. cc306 is 230/244 0.541/0.576 lift with 1.6s. 112 LSA.
Thats what I think about that build.
That setup you have there, should put down at least 350rwhp if it is healthy. You should be very low 12s, trapping 115ish, and with your 60' should be high 11s. Your cam is very close to the cc306, so my guess is the builder took the cc306 and modified it for what HE thought would be better for nitrous, widening the LSA, and reducing exhaust. cc306 is 230/244 0.541/0.576 lift with 1.6s. 112 LSA.
Thats what I think about that build.
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12-06-2012, 07:10 PM
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In general terms 6-8 degrees of I/E split is decent for a NA setup.
113 should not be used for an NA setup unless it is emissions concern causing it, most of the quick NA setups are 107-110LSA. With single 3" exhaust I would probably stay more like 110 as the tighter you go the more exhaust sensitive it is.
If you are going to spray DO NOT pick a wide LSA for it unless you are looking to spray say 250+.
The .510 lift number is probably with 1.5s, using 1.6s is the right thing to do but still only pushes it up to .544 which is too low unless maybe you are going for never having to consider valvespring replacement, most of us go .560-.610 on lift and at the higher end of that lift scale expect maybe 15K miles out of a set of beehives.
Looks like your builder is a full decade behind on his cam selection.
113 should not be used for an NA setup unless it is emissions concern causing it, most of the quick NA setups are 107-110LSA. With single 3" exhaust I would probably stay more like 110 as the tighter you go the more exhaust sensitive it is.
If you are going to spray DO NOT pick a wide LSA for it unless you are looking to spray say 250+.
The .510 lift number is probably with 1.5s, using 1.6s is the right thing to do but still only pushes it up to .544 which is too low unless maybe you are going for never having to consider valvespring replacement, most of us go .560-.610 on lift and at the higher end of that lift scale expect maybe 15K miles out of a set of beehives.
Looks like your builder is a full decade behind on his cam selection.
yes the car was built in 2003.
has 11 thousand miles on the build.
ya i was told only it should be 6-8 like u said for a na car
i got incontact with him he was aiming for a 200 shot of nos thur it
12-06-2012, 07:15 PM
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It wld be nice to know what ur thots are - ur goals what ur gonna do to the car u obvious have spent a chunk of money on the bottom end, have 2 agree on what the others say abt lsa kind of high for a NA or squeeze set up also no lift but plenty of duration. the cam wld be a start agn CR wld b nice to know and the shot ur gonna use judging by the pistons im guessing ur gonna, the other thing i dont see is stall or tranny or rear end fuel system all of these will have to be addressed to run the numbers u cld w the proper cam and head setup.
i bought the car built just figuring out the yes and no bout the build.
im not sure on the compression i did the compression check on each cylinder then did a equation that they list and it came out to be really close to the factory compression.
i was thinking if i run nos to hit it with atleast 150 hp
its a stock fuel system besides 30 lb injectors
stock ten bolt with 4.10s
and a vig 3600
12-06-2012, 07:17 PM
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In general terms 6-8 degrees of I/E split is decent for a NA setup.
113 should not be used for an NA setup unless it is emissions concern causing it, most of the quick NA setups are 107-110LSA. With single 3" exhaust I would probably stay more like 110 as the tighter you go the more exhaust sensitive it is.
If you are going to spray DO NOT pick a wide LSA for it unless you are looking to spray say 250+.
The .510 lift number is probably with 1.5s, using 1.6s is the right thing to do but still only pushes it up to .544 which is too low unless maybe you are going for never having to consider valvespring replacement, most of us go .560-.610 on lift and at the higher end of that lift scale expect maybe 15K miles out of a set of beehives.
Looks like your builder is a full decade behind on his cam selection.
113 should not be used for an NA setup unless it is emissions concern causing it, most of the quick NA setups are 107-110LSA. With single 3" exhaust I would probably stay more like 110 as the tighter you go the more exhaust sensitive it is.
If you are going to spray DO NOT pick a wide LSA for it unless you are looking to spray say 250+.
The .510 lift number is probably with 1.5s, using 1.6s is the right thing to do but still only pushes it up to .544 which is too low unless maybe you are going for never having to consider valvespring replacement, most of us go .560-.610 on lift and at the higher end of that lift scale expect maybe 15K miles out of a set of beehives.
Looks like your builder is a full decade behind on his cam selection.
what do u mean bout expect 15k out of a set of beehives im lost there??
12-06-2012, 07:19 PM
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I probably don't know the whole story/history here, but.........
Is this a solid/functional/running engine? Not drinking coolant, oil, smoking, making clanking noises, etc.?
If so, then don't even worry about the cam at this point. It sounds like you have a lot to figure out and get WHAT YOU ALREADY HAVE tuned and running properly first. Sure, that cam is nowhere near optimum for a NA setup, but it sure as heck is not what's holding your car back. Even a STOCK cam properly tuned would be turning in those numbers. The one you have is easily capable of running mid 11's in the high teens mph. Don't throw any money at it until you fix what's wrong.
Is this a solid/functional/running engine? Not drinking coolant, oil, smoking, making clanking noises, etc.?
If so, then don't even worry about the cam at this point. It sounds like you have a lot to figure out and get WHAT YOU ALREADY HAVE tuned and running properly first. Sure, that cam is nowhere near optimum for a NA setup, but it sure as heck is not what's holding your car back. Even a STOCK cam properly tuned would be turning in those numbers. The one you have is easily capable of running mid 11's in the high teens mph. Don't throw any money at it until you fix what's wrong.
no coolant...sucks a lil bit of oil which is no biggie. no smoke or etc...
alright sounds good my plans are like u said of getting it tuned first.
do u really think mid elevens on a full weight car?
12-06-2012, 07:21 PM
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He bought the car like this. He posted up about his track numbers wondering why he was only running 12.6 at 110 or something, even with a 1.6 60'.
That setup you have there, should put down at least 350rwhp if it is healthy. You should be very low 12s, trapping 115ish, and with your 60' should be high 11s. Your cam is very close to the cc306, so my guess is the builder took the cc306 and modified it for what HE thought would be better for nitrous, widening the LSA, and reducing exhaust. cc306 is 230/244 0.541/0.576 lift with 1.6s. 112 LSA.
Thats what I think about that build.
That setup you have there, should put down at least 350rwhp if it is healthy. You should be very low 12s, trapping 115ish, and with your 60' should be high 11s. Your cam is very close to the cc306, so my guess is the builder took the cc306 and modified it for what HE thought would be better for nitrous, widening the LSA, and reducing exhaust. cc306 is 230/244 0.541/0.576 lift with 1.6s. 112 LSA.
Thats what I think about that build.
yes u are 100 percent correct bout the cc306 i called comp cam yesterday bout that cam he said its very comparable to that one and u can spin it all the way up to 6500
thanks for the input
12-06-2012, 07:48 PM
#13
I would do a 255lph pump and relay kit before spraying.
With a more modern cam I would expect beehive springs to last 15-20K miles before you need to replace them. With high lift cams and aggressive lobes valvesprings become a maintenance item.
Was the cranking compression at least say 195psi?
Really on a NA 355 depending on the cam I would hope for more like 230psi.
With a more modern cam I would expect beehive springs to last 15-20K miles before you need to replace them. With high lift cams and aggressive lobes valvesprings become a maintenance item.
Was the cranking compression at least say 195psi?
Really on a NA 355 depending on the cam I would hope for more like 230psi.
12-06-2012, 08:04 PM
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alright that what i was thinking also..
a dumb question but how would i know if the springs need replaced??
no im going to say it was maybe 180 psi if i remember right it was probably like 170-180
a dumb question but how would i know if the springs need replaced??
no im going to say it was maybe 180 psi if i remember right it was probably like 170-180
12-08-2012, 04:10 PM
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