Jimmyac28

I just bought a 94 Firebird Formula with 160,000 miles. Im the second owner of the car and the only modification the previous owner installed on it is a KN CAI. I would like to start doing some mods to it. My goal right now will be around 400 whp. What modifications do you recommend to achieve that goal?

Sof86

There are different ways of doing it, what kind of budget are you on? Is the car an auto or m6?

Jimmyac28

I dont really have a specific budget right now but the only thing is I would like to know what would be the least expensive way of getting to this goal that at the same time would be reliable either NA or FI, no nitrous

The car is an auto

96lt1m6

iTrader: (31)

WWW.elliottsportworks.com
WWW.advancedinductions.com
The only way I can see making that power reliably NA.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

Why no nitrous? Lots of guys come in here saying "no nitrous" because they don't know much about it, but if you are willing to do some searching and reading threads with successful combos, you may change your mind. A well tuned and properly set up 150 shot staying below 6000rpm can last years.

96z28_lt1

iTrader: (3)

I have to agree on the head cam combo, although it wouldn't make quite 400whp without out good tune supporting mods and the likes it will still make relativley close to it and be a blast to drive. I had a buddy who supercharged his trans am, it was fast had power but wasn't very reliable. He blew a head gasket within first month of the build and problems only kept rising until he decided to get rid of the car.

Jimmyac28

So you suggest that a 150 shot well tuned will get me to 400whp reliably on a stock motor?
I would like the power to be available at all times wothout having to worry about any extra things. What budget would I need to do a reliable nitrous setup?

With the heads and Cam posted above it seems that I would hit my goal I estimate the cost to be around $2600 after head and cam, full exhaust and headers. Does that sound about right?

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

$2600 is low, say you get LE2s $1600, injectors $300, long tubes $400, catback $400, rockers $250, pushrods studs and guide plates $250, 255gph fuel pump $110, tune $200-400, plus you'll need suspension and a rear if you plan on hooking, so Lcas $100, torque arm $250, used 9" $1500, torque arm relo $250, driveshaft $300, it's not as simple as you think or you will constantly be breaking ****. Start with full boltons and suspension then add power.

Or $700 for a good nitrous system plus $50 a 10 lb refill.

96z28_lt1

iTrader: (3)

my top end cost me roughly 4500ish... you can get away without injectors, and fuel pump. Plenty of people use the stock pump and i was going to but mine died from sitting and the crappy autozone pump failed with first couple months. If you want constant power though start saving your pennies and go for the head and cam, things rip awesome and changes how the car completley feels.

cbr600rx7

iTrader: (12)

Bolt ons and a good nitrous set up would get you there. But if you are trying to stay away from the bottle and make 400hp on a LT1 its going to get expensive. Your going to need heads and cams.

Jimmyac28

So full bolt ons, a good cam and a nitrous setup will get me there without breaking the wallet?

ugod02010

I am gonna be looking into the same thing with my 95 formula.From what I read I thought the LE2 head work and cam came with basically everthing except your rockers, guides if needed and bigger studs. But the nitrous you are talking about you wouldn't necisarily need a cam to run the nitrous. just make sure your motor is in good shape and your fuel pressure and injectors are able to keep up with the extra demand created by the nitrous. I may throw a 100 shot onto mine in the meantime. Also I should say I have 3.73 gears and a good torque converter. Start there it will make the car so much more fun to drive and the 3.73's wont kill your gas milage to bad when your just cruising from place to place.

streetwarrior96

160,000 miles.... you might want to give the internals a refresher up... b4 you start pushing 400 ponies. I like piece of mind not having to worry about something breaking down. I know you asked for the least expensive way...either way you go, there will be a list of things to do. As posted above. Elliotport works and AI are good places to start off. http://www.golenengineservice.com/en...block-383400hp. Your also gonna need some transmission work.... unless you go the route fix it as you break it?

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

Are you seriously going to recommend Golen right now?

VAformula

iTrader: (8)

Please, lets not give anyone this advice. Ever.

ugod02010

5.18 gears in a chevelle w/2spd damn so thats how the world turns!

VAformula

iTrader: (8)

Yeah, I need to change the sig to 5.18 instead of 5:18, I just realized that's a typo. But its a fun ride, makes it to about the sign at the end of the street before its maxed out.

My dad and I built it as a father son project, its a true SS so someday it'll get its 396 back!

Now back to the comments on hand.

I'd do a H/C set from LE or AI and obviously all the things needed, 1.6 roller rockers, springs, new lifters, etc.

That should get you right there!

white95formula

what he said

white95formula

that kinda power is easy with a ls swap

stevo9389

i think you are understating the cost a wee bit unless you want to hook up or break **** like a car that has the power of full engine bolt-ons and 0 suspension mods.

don't get me wrong there is still a significant (initial) savings going to nitrous/suspension/tires/tune as opposed to H/C/I/E/suspension/tires/tune but it is not as must as your post made it sound.