DippedCamaroZ28

Im fairly new to this site so I apologize if this question has been answered in another thread. I have a 96 z28 m6 that is basically stock and I was wondering if it would be beneficial to get a mail order tune for it. It has a cold air intake and a cutout and dynomax bullet muffler right after the Y pipe. The cutout is always open. It also had little things done like throttlebody bypass and an airfoil. I was thinking about getting a mail order tune from pcmforless or madz28.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

Once you have headers it will be worth it.

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

Power gain would be the same with or without headers.

fbody_brian

Just wondering, what kind of average power gain would you see from a tune on basically stock lt1?
Any numbers?
I know on some other engines you can see 20hp or more, but I thought the stock tune on the lt1 isn't all that conservative. Am I way off on that statement?

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

Unless it has an issue with false knock or screwed yp fuel trims you won't quite gain 20 rwhp with a stock M6 LT1. You could fudge coolant temps between pulls and make it look like you did, but not legit.

zlicious94

iTrader: (1)

I would just wait until you get full boltons and then tune up from there, h/c etc.

DippedCamaroZ28

Thanks for all the info guys. I was thinking of doing headers, but I'm a highschool student so I'm on a budget. I'm just trying to find things that I can do.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Agreed.

lt1-xjs

All you really need is a 160* thermostat installed and then get the tune. They'll set the fans to take advantage of the cooler stat.

BALLSS

factory "tunes" are more focused on CAFE (MPG) and emission compliance. That priority will leave HP that the motor 'can" produce not optimum for the componets it has.

a 160 stat will allow a tuner to lower fan temp "on" function so the motor runs cooler and thus more timing can be added for better "performance", especially if tuning for 93 octane vs 87

Certainly other parameters are adjusted in the PCM also. Some will release HP over stock and others can firm up shift points.

exactly how much HP gain you get varies from car to car and tuner involved. you will see around 15ish +/- HP improvement on a otherwise stock LT1

stay away from marketed bolt ons like larger TB's and aftermarket MAF's on a stock motor. Larger TB on a heads/cam car can be of benefit, but will require tuning specific to that mod.

if your motor has 75+k mi and has original valve springs than upgrading springs will allow the motor to rev higher without valve float. Adding 1:6 RR with that will give you a "poor mans" cam upgrade somewhat in terms of higher lifts due to the increaded RR ratio. A tuner may up your shift points if you do that to take advantage of the increased RPM the motor can make with the upgraded valve train parts. Not talking BIG RPM increase, just more because the valve train can support a modest RPM increase.

lt1-xjs

Although I have a '93 which uses a chip, it's still a tune. 10 years ago I changed the chip on the dyno and witnessed a 7 rwhp gain. Was it worth the $ 100 it cost at the time ? Sure, it's still in my car today. All little things add up. For me the bolt-on's have produced a 44 rwhp gain.

93Euphoria

What temp does our engines go into closed loop? That might be something worth tuning if you have a 160 stat (like myself, but never got it tuned) so you dont burn more fuel than whats needed.

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

Depends on a few things, but 130/135 degrees is about average. Factory thermostat for an LT1 is 180. Stop & go, around town mileage seldom suffers more than one MPG. Highway, no change.